Manual Operated Lug Type Butterfly Valve without pin

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Product Description:

Quick Details

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Structure: Butterfly

  • Pressure: Low Pressure

  • Power: Manual

  • Material: CI/DI/SS/WCB

  • Temperature of Media: Normal Temperature

  • Media: water,oil,gas

  • Port Size: DN50-1200mm

  • Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: D7L1X-10/16

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Standard export packaging: plywooden case. Or as per customers' requirements.
Delivery Detail:within 15-30 days after receipt of L/C or 30% deposit by T/T

Specifications

1.2"~48"
2.PN10/16(150/200PSI)
3.CI,DI,SS,CS,ALB,Brass
4.different standards.
5.handle,hand wheel,electric,pneumatic driver.

Center Line Soft Sealed Lugged Butterfly Valve without pin

Features:

1.Small in size and light in weight. Easy installation and maintenance. It can be mounted wherever needed.

2.Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3.Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

4.Long service life. Standing the test of thousands opening/closing operation.

5.Wide selection of materials, applicable for various media.

Standard:

Design standard

Face to face

End flange

Test & inspection

MSS SP-67

API609

EN593

API609

ISO5752 series 20

BS5155

DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1

BS4504

ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598

Performance:

PN(MPa)

DN(mm)

Testing Pressure

(MPa)

Applicable Temp. °C

Applicable Medium

Shell

Sealing

1.0/1.6

DN50 ~ DN1000

1.5

1.1

-45~ 150

Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids,

Alkalis, etc.

Material List:

Part Name

Material

BodyCI/DI/WCB/SS
DiscDI/ALB/WCB/MONEL/CF8/CF8M
StemSS416/SS304/SS316/WCB
SeatEPDM/BUNA/NBR/NR/PTFE/HYPALON/VITON/NEOPRENE


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Q:Technical requirements when deciding upon a control valve are?
1] I assume that by control valve you mean a variable orifice valve, not an on/off valve. 2] An answerer to your other question listed Metallurgy, temperature, pressure and shutoff requirement To which I note that if you need a tight shutoff you should not trust a control valve to do that, but should add an on/off valve in series. Also, metallurgy covers corrosion requirements but not obviously so 3] To which I add: flow rate [or Cv] and pressure drop fail open or fail closed response time signal input [3-15 psi, 4-20 mA, 1-5V, etc] connections [ie, fitting type] packed vs sealed might need to look at hard seat materials and/or replaceable seats, to control erosion reliability, ease of maintenance, availability of spares, timing on that vendor permanence [ie, are they entering bankruptcy ?] Cost
Q:Need help finding a specific valve...?
The leading maker of solenoid valves is ASCO. Their website is shown below. If a valve that fits your application exists they probably make one. If you can't find a suitable solenoid then you need to consider a pneumatic valve operated by a solenoid valve. That is a common solution for a problem like yours. As to the male connections. If they are not available then you can just use a pair of threaded fittings (pipe nipples) to change the configuration.
Q:Anyone know anything about mitral valve prolapse?
I also have this condition and I also take Toprol every day. If I forget to take it I know by noon I didn't. My heart really runs fast. I also have the tightness in my chest. AT times i feel like my heart is turning over, now that is weird. I am with you on not knowing what to do, one Dr says leave it alone another says fix it. I am not much help but I understand your thoughts.
Q:pro's and con's of mechanical valve vs tissue valve...?
Your initial respondant hit on the basic question - 1. A biologic valve which will need a least one replacement again sometime in your mother's lifetime (though maybe at that time a better alternative might be available). 2. A mechanical valve which has an unlimited lifetime but requires life-long and very careful attendant focus on taking anti-coagulation medication, lest she be at risk for stroke or complications associated with bleeding. On the positive, it typically never requires replacement. At this point, both valves are likely to do the job. I have ancedotally seen some unfortunate complications associated with biologic valves - but it may have to do with biologic valves being used more frequently as most individuals needing this surgery are older. (and therefore select the biologic valve more frequently) Having an open heart surgery is about as big of an operation as you can have and is never undertaken lightly - let alone thinking of making a decision to have several of these surgeries over a time. It is a highly personal decision which does not have a right answer. If your mother is very good about taking medication and getting follow-up blood tests, then a mechanical valve might be right for her. If she has multiple other medical problems and is generally of ill health, she might want to consider the biologic valve. Generally speaking, for a woman in her 40's, generally healthy, and generally good about following regimen, then a mechancal valve is probably the right way to go for her. I hope this is helpful. Good luck to you and your Mother.
Q:Valve adjustment on my 1994 Honda civic ex?
Leave it alone. Besides at 155k a Civic is junk not worth spending money on.
Q:ATV head (valve seats)?
Without knowing actually how big the space is, I'm hampered in my answer. If the valve isn't bent, you may be able to lap the valve and seat. Your service manual should have directions on how to do this. Or you may even be able to grind it out with valve-grinding compound. I've gotten away with using valve-grinding compound heavily in some cases that probably should have been lapped. I put the valve in it's guide and attach a rubber hose and drill to the end of the valve. Then, after applying the compound to the seat and valve, I spin the valve while gently pressing on it's head. I keep adding compound as needed. I've done several this way with no problems. But if you have a big gouge you will probably need to get a lapper.
Q:can a leaky valve covergasket or old pcv valve cause oil to burn from the exhaust?
a leaking valve cover could only cause oil to burn when it drip,s onto the exhaust manifold that would be mainly under your hood...a plugged or bad P.C.V valve could cause crankcase pressure to build could cause minor oil consumption....if your sure your piston ring,s are in good condition then the valve seal,s would be the next suspect...change your positive crankcase ventilation valve first.....it would help to know more detail...like...does it burn more at start up or hard acceleration...that would indicate valve seal,s or guide,s....another thing would be just how much oil does it consume per mile....more detail will insure a more accurate answer...good luck!
Q:Cam carrier/ valve gaskets replacement?
valve cover shouldn't be that much of a problem as long as you have some basic tools and some mechanical ability. Take it that its a 4 cylinder car, the size of the motor is very helpful when looking for tips. Just don't over torque your bolts when replacing. 89 in lbs is about normal on gm's valve covers
Q:whats a leaking aortic valve?
The valves of your heart valve are not closing properly. Very common thing. May or may not require surgery. May or may not be related to you having a fast heart beat. Ask your dr to tell you what the racing heart was about. They would have a record if it was significant. Or your doctor may want you to wear a monitor for 1-2 days to help to catch this so it can be identified.
Q:Sewer ejector check valve placement?
the check valve would be installed just outside of the crock vertically. The noise I doubt is from the check valve itself. I'd guess it is the pump shutting off and the pipe isn't fastened securely, so it bangs. Check to make sure that the run of pipe leaving the crock is fastened securely. if this is the case the only other option I oculd think of would be to re-position the check valve on a horizontal run of pipe as close to the crock as possible. Most check valves I have seen for ejectors are compression type, it will be messy but not to complicated. Keep a bucket handy, when you crack open that check valve you may need it. Flush the toilet until the pump kicks on a few times, this should clear out most of the nasty stuff. You may also need a short piece of 2 pipe and some couplings to make up for the space of the check valve. If you can hear the water flowing out when the pump kicks on and don't hear it draining back into the crock when it shuts off, the check valve is probably still good.

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