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Specifications of Porcelain Tile

1.Polished porcelain tile

2.Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

3.Water absorption:<0.5%

4.Sizes: 600 x 600mm or 800 x 800mm

6.Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

7.Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

8.Transportation: by sea

9.Package: 4 pcs/Ctn for 600mm; 3 pcs/Ctn for 800mm

Applications of Porcelain Tile

1.Suitable for homes flooring tiles

2.high grade office buildings

3. high-grade hotel flooring tiles,

4.government and corporate projects flooring tiles

5.deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles

Pictures of porcelain tiles

porcelain tile

Usage of porceain tile

porcelai tiles

porcelain tile

Polishing Line of porcelain tile

polishing line

Packing Line of porcelain tile

packing warehouse

Certificate of porcelain tile

porcelain tile

Advantages of porcelain tile

Green Product
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International Approvals
Packaging
Price
Product Features
Product Performance
Prompt Delivery
Quality Approvals
Reputation
Service

Main Export Markets:

Asia
Australasia
Central/South America
Eastern Europe
Mid East/Africa
North America
Western Europe

Here you can find good products, better price and the best service!

Looking forward to receiving your inquiry

Q:We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?: This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out

Q:How to choose the difference between tile types: 1, glazed tiles Glazed tiles are the bricks of the brick surface treated by glazing. Glazed tiles according to the different materials, divided into ceramic glazed tiles and porcelain glazed tiles. Ceramic glazed tiles are made from clay, with high water absorption and relatively low strength. The main feature is that the back color is red and the porcelain glazed tiles are made from porcelain clay with low water absorption and relatively strong Higher, the main feature is the back of the color is gray. Glazed tiles are the most common brick decoration, not only rich in color, and anti-fouling ability, is widely used in wall and floor decoration.

Q:We had glass tile installed in our kitchen and it looks wavy. Our installer said it was an optical illusion which I disagree with. I noticed it as it was being installed and that he did not use spacers. Wouldn‘t that have allowed the tiles to move before they were grouted?: Spacers keep the gaps between tiles uniform - they don't affect the height of the tile with respect to the wall. A good installer would absolutely use spacers on a vertical surface, as the setting compound, like most concrete and concrete-like material, behaves like a gel; it becomes rubbery and remembers where it was before you push on it. One can watch a misaligned tile slowly slide back almost into its original position after attempting to straighten it out - it MUST be held stationary for a minute or two, and since most tile setters don't want to hold a single tile for that amount of time, they use spacers to do it for them. If there are only a few tiles that are particularly bad, make him remove and reset them. Hold a straightedge against them and take a picture of the job. Then if he balks at fixing it, you could ask if he'd like to see what a small claims court judge might say about the need for payment (or the return thereof). Nine times out of ten, the contractor will fix the problem rather than deal with court.

Q:My dad layed tiles in his kitchen recently. He had some plywood type stuff that he layed them on top of so they are on a flat, even surface. But then someone told him he should have put a netting type stuff underneith the tiles too, to keep them from breaking. Is that very important, will his floor be ruined now?: Its called wire mesh. Its not used as much anymore. What makes tiles or grout crack is the wood below the tiles. If the floor joists are too far apart and the plywood is not thick enough it can cause the floor to move. Even a little bit of movement can cause the tiles and the grout to crack. The wire mesh will not help if the floor moves.

Q:OK here is my problem. I want to switch my bath tub to an all-tile shower and wonder how to do it. So far the tile were set onto a cement board that was itself put on top of the drywall. I am wondering if this is a common thing. From all my research, it looks like tile should be on the cement board, but there is no use for extra drywall behind it. It actually makes things tougher because you need some sort of corner tile instead of normal bullnose since the cement board and the rest of the wall are not at the same level.My second question is: is there an order to do all this i.e. should I make the shower pan (sort of rubber sheet filled with cement), before or after I install the cement board on the wall. Is there a specific angle used for the drain?Thanks in advance for all your tips.: take off all tile and wallboard down to the studs.move all plumbing,use a pvc liner which bolts to the drain flange.when nailing the liner to the studs run the liner about a foot up the wall.no fastners 9in or lower or it will leak.put up your concrete board,remember no fastners 9in or lower concrete will hold the bottom.form a curb using 2x6s run the liner in the middle of the form. use a 2x6 braced against the back wall inside the shower to hold the form inside the shower. fill with concrete on both sides.i use quickcrete sand topping mix.let the curb dry for 24 hrs.pull the form.now pour concrete inside the curb. your pan should have a pitch of 1/4 in.for every foot from the drain.let dry again for 24 hrs.do not use wall mastic as adhesive for the tile, use mortar.i also use hydroguard 1 from dal-tile in the corners and seams.you can brush it on.now your ready to tile.if you dont have any bullnose ,you can use a metal trim. i use dal-tile #a100.get a mosiac tile for the floor so it will wrap the pitch of the floor.use a sanded grout on the floor.you can butt the tile joints on the wall but if you do, use a nonsanded grout.silicone all corners.putting in a custom shower is one of the hardest thing you can do in your home,

Q:the bathroom at work has lenulium sheet. I slip when it rains, b cos it is wet. I want to replace home carpeting with tiles or vynal. which one is less slippery? thanks: They are equally slick. If deciding on tiles, I recommend some with texture. It helps. I have torn my ACL and went through the tile vs. vinyl. textured tile also hides any scratches etc.

Q:How many 4x4 tiles for the deck area of a bath tub?Total area of deck tub = 108 x 61 = 6588Total area of tub = 60 x 41.5 = 24906588 - 2490 = 4098 total deck areaCan someone please tell me how many tiles I need? I don‘t know where to go from here.: 4 x 4 = 16 divide by 4098 Then figure out if you have to buy a whole box or a 1/2 is ok for the remainder. Also you have to allow for grout. Figuring 1/8 so add 1/16 per tile. So your figure is really 4.0625 x 4.0625 or 16.5 divided by 4098 249 *******Hmmm Clayton.....9 per sq foot silly and you didn't deduct for the tub. Altho getting some for breakage is smart.

Q:the third tile. All three tiles types have the same side length. Determine the shape of the third tile type.: Where 3 tiles meet, they must add up to a full 360°. The formula for the interior angle of a regular n-sided polygon is: ((n - 2)*180) / n Plugging in n=4, the interior angle of a square is 90° Plugging in n=5, the angle of a pentagon is 108° The angle of the third tile is x and the 3 angles must add up to a full 360°: 90 + 108 + x = 360 Solve for x: x = 360 - 198 x = 162 Plug that into the original equation and solve for n: ((n - 2) * 180) / n = 162 (n-2) * 180 = 162n n - 2 = (162/180)n n - (162/180)n = 2 (18/180)n = 2 (1/10)n = 2 n = 2 * 10 n = 20 So the third tile must be from a regular icosagon (20-sided polygon) Answer: Regular icosagon; see the picture below.

Q:We want to put the same sticky tile over the existing tile just stagger them. Will that be unstable or should we remove the old ones...which seems like work lol: As long as the existing tile is not cracked, has missing chips, free from grease and dirt and has been vacuumed you won't have a problem putting new tile over it. Also you want to make sure the existing tile is not loose in spots. Yeah, a few new tiles might lose their grip and come up.....in about forty years. We did the same in 1974. I am now in the process of a remodel and a few of them came loose. Must have been a bad batch of tiles! Lol. You'll be fine.

Q:HI ,THIS IS MY FIRST TILE PROJECT. I AM INSTALLING A BACKSPLASH ON SHEETROCK USING 4.5X4.5 PORCELAIN TILES. USING OMNIGRIP MASTIC APPLIED WITH A 1/4 X 3/16 V-NOTCH TROWEL. THE TILES HAVE A WAFFLE BACK. MY CONCERN IS DO I HAVE TO FILL IN THE WAFFLE DEPRESSIONS,WHICH SEEM TO BE 1/16 DEEP,BY BACK BUTTERING PRIOR TO APPLYING TILE TO COMBED MASTIC. ALSO, IS THE TROWEL SIZE CORRECT?P.S. WHY DO SOME TILES HAVE A WAFFLED BACK AND SOME A PRACTICALLY FLAT BACK? THANKS!: you must change your space for your kitchen space first

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