• Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC)-Gypsum Filler/Joint Filler System 1
Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC)-Gypsum Filler/Joint Filler

Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC)-Gypsum Filler/Joint Filler

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Product introduction

Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC) is non-ionic cellulose ether, made by natural high polymer cellulose as raw material and series of chemical processing. They provide water retention and cohesiveness to mixtures. With special modification, it can be used to control thickening, water demand, workability, sag resistance, strength and other important properties of the final product.

It is widely used as thickener, adhesive, water preserving agent, film-foaming agent in building materials, industrial coatings, synthetic resin, ceramic industry, medicine, food, textile, agricultural, cosmetic and other industries.

Physical and chemical index

ITEM

CAS: 9004-65-3

INDEX

60SS-E

65SS-F

75SS-K

Hydroxypropyl                %

7.0-12.0

4.0-7.5

4.0-12.0

Methoxyl                    %

28.0-32.0

27.0-32.0

19.0-24.0

Gel temperature              

58-64

62-68

70-90

Moisture                     %

≤5.0

Ash content                  %

≤1.0

Viscosity                 mpa.s

100-200000

Lighttransmittance            %

≥70

Whiteness                   %

≥75

Bulk density                g /l

370---420

Appearance

white or off-white fibrous or granular powder, odorless, tasteless

Package:

25kg/package. Use polyethylene film cardboard or plastic polypropylene woven bag package.  

Gypsum Filler/Joint Filler

Gypsum filler or Joint filler is a dry mixed mortar that is used to fill the joints between wall boards.

Gypsum filler consists of hemihydrate gypsum as a binder, some fillers and additives.

In this application, HPMC provides strong tape adhesion power, easy workability, and high water retention etc.  

Recommend grades:  HPMC 75SS-K (100000mpa.s)

Q:As you can tell my piston rings are worn and I have blue smoke going everywhere. I just switched out the oil and went with a thicker weight and put in some bardahl stop leak additive but after a few start ups the car is still smoking. I was wondering if there was a specific amount of mileage that is needed in order for the additive to flow through the engine to temporarily stop the leak or if there was another brand of additive that‘s better or if additives just don‘t work. I realize that eventually ill have to rebuild the engine but I‘m just trying to buy some time here. Thanks.
the money you will spend for additives and some trial and error repair, plus the oil to top the level, just save it for engine rebuilding. no additives can fix, weld, build up a broken/worn out piston rings and sleeves/cylinders. and no oil can restore the flexibility of valve seals, cam seals, and crankshaft seals when it starts to leak.
Q:Sega's fuel additive to buy what is good
This carbon deposition problem, are generally cold report failure, is certainly a cylinder cold car because of carbon deposition caused by inadequate combustion (carbon deposition in the cold state will dilute part of the fuel), it will report a failure! Gasoline additives are best used in the original, because the original is for this model R & D, do not want to buy a generic type, what car can use points!
Q:I‘ve not found a good additive for my truck to remove moisture(water) that I‘ve been told by many that is causing havoc with my motor.
Submarines, hospitals and chemical companies have been doing this for years. It takes a whole lot of DC power to shock pure water, which separates it into hydrogen and oxygen. Basically, you have a nickel cadmium cylinder with a anode (negative) and a cathode (positive) side. Inside there is usually a teflon sleeve to keep the two separated after electrolysis. If they join together, the would spontaneously explode. Which is how the shuttle gets to the moon. The cathode draws the negatively charged oxygen and the anode draws the positively charged hydrogen Thus resulting in the two separate gases. The machines that accomplishes this is very complicated, with numerous gas analyzers, leak detectors and safety mechanisms. Also, these machines have to be monitored virtually 24/7 and cannot be monitored and maintained through just a few simple car gages. Also, the water has to be pure. Any impurities whatsoever could cause an explosion. So, be very careful when playing with this stuff. The problem with this technology, as stated before is that you expend far more energy to separate these two gases, than you could produce by their burning At least with today's technology. It would be very nice to run off of water but also very dangerous and probably not worth the expense, considering the hazards involved. Did I mention the space shuttle?
Q:the question is, do they really work?i have seen them in various car shops,i have actually tried one ?18 i t was for 1 treatment it claimed reduce emmisions,stop smoke,more m.p.g. etc,etc,but i don,t think it made a blind bit of differenceis it just a rip off ????
id pour wisky in tank rather that fuel additive might even work better .
Q:Is soy dietary fiber a food additive?
No, soy dietary fiber is a kind of dietary fiber, in the classification, all the dietary fiber belongs to a can not be digested carbohydrates and carbohydrates in the classification of food raw materials, and flour, sugar, etc. belong to a Classification grade, does not belong to food additives.
Q:An extended auto warranty co. says to put a product additive in my radiator? What is it? Will it mess up car?
I would wonder why this company tells you to add an additive? What is the purpose of it? And what additive are they asking you to place into it? I use a 50% to 50% antifreeze along with distilled water. Distilled water will not leave hard water deposits in the motor or cause it to rust as fast. Radiators last a lot longer without all the problems.
Q:From STP oil treatment to Slick 50. Do they work?
never ever put an additive in a new car. I dont suggest any additives until at least 45 to 50 thousand miles. On todays cars, 60 to 70 thousand miles. Stp is just an oil honey. It makes the viscosity thicker so it clings longer than oil by itself would. I found stp tohold" dirt. Lucas seems to be the best treatment I have found for high mileage motors, especially ones with weak oil pressure from poor main bearings. It does a nice job of creating abuffer" inbetween the bearings and is formulated to keep it clean. Alot of additives areparaffin" based, Thats right, WAX! those are the ones to stay away from. Penzoil and a couple other motor oils used to be pariffin based oils. Slick 50. It says in the pamplet that comes with it in the box, do NOT put in a new car. It will not let the rings seat. Only for high mileage motors. amazing what one learns by reading! But I am a beleiver in that product in this respect. I had an Olds 88 with a 4.3. 126 thousand miles on it. Used slick 50 in it since it had 100 thousand miles. It seemed to make the motor run cooler. Major sale point for me was it was 3 in the morning and I was in Galesburg Illinois. The oil sending unit blew. All the oil blew out onto the underside of the hood and firewall. I had no oil. I just said the hell with it and drive it. I drove that car into my driveway in Peoria Illinois and shut it off. The lifters just started to make noise a few blocks from my house. In the morning, I put a new sender and fresh oil and drove that car another 32 thousand miles and sold it with 158 thousand miles on it! The lifter noise went away within 10 minutes of running it with oil when that happend. So I have to beleive in slick 50. Whatever that polymer is in it, clings like crazy and actually worked for me. I own 2 shops now and recommend that product on all cars with over 100 thousand miles. I recommend Lucas for all cars with low oil pressure that people dont have the money to repair correctly
Q:I want to know why they have so many and are they really necessary. is there a list that says what they are AND their purpose of each one?
the oil will have destroyed all rubbers in the brake system! Dont just flush out system because the wheel cyl,master cyl, and anny weight compensating valves will leak ,if not now they will in the next few days.You will have to get rid of the oil by flushing with methylated spirits,drain as much as possible by undoing all bleeders,re tighten and fill with metho,then drain that out.Do this several times and blow out with compressed air.Then all wheel cylinder rubbers will have to be replaced,also master cylinder rubbersand anything else that has rubber in it.good luck
Q:How many kinds of illegal additives are there in the bread cake
Normal bread cake does not exist in the case of illegal additives Some of the illegal additives that more anti-preservatives add excessive
Q:hey everyonei have a V6 97 Dodge Dakota.and its HORRIBLE on gas.i get about 12 mpg on the HIGHWAY.im not asking to get 40 mpg.i just want a little more.what is the BEST additive.i have been using lucas fuel additive and an off brand octane booster from the dollar store.they give me the best result (the 12 mpg).and i use 87 octane at the pump.i have tried plus gas and premiumnothingthe same result as 87.so any suggestions that wont cost me 100$? thanks and God Bless---Nick
i say get another truck like the 01 tacoma v6 prerunner. they are better on gas. other then that just check your air filter and you can save a little bit of gas by using less electronics in your vehicle.

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