High Performance Safty Valve

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A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527


♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

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Q:electronic valves from the '60s uses?
Valves...or as we call them over here in the states, tubes...have a huge number of uses. These were basically what we had before we had transistors. There are tubes that regulate voltage, tubes that perform logic operations...audio tubes, tv tubes. What each tube does is pretty specific to the type of tube. Each one should be marked with an indentifying mark...such as 12AX7..or what you might see, ECC83 (just examples). Here's the great thing. You don't really need to know what they do. The people that are going to be buying tubes pretty much know what they're looking for. All you're mostly interested in listing is the tube type. You can get fancy, look it up and write down what kind of tube it is. However, you can't really nail down one application. I have tubes that were used in the RF amplifier section for VHF that, surprisingly, make EXCELLENT audio amplifier tubes. They have a wide range of uses...and for selling purposes, you only need to tell people the following: Brand of type type of tube (tube designation). You can include some information if you want...I'd make sure you mention they're untested unless you have a tube tester. But, for the most part, the people that would be interested in buying these things in the first place are already going to know what they're for. They're not something bought by the general public..it's a niche market. What you'll want to do though is look up those same tubes on OKorder to get an idea of what prices are going for. It's entirely possible you have a tube or two that are hard to find in todays market and would bring you MUCH MUCH more than the 11 shillings it retailed for. Case in point...I have a tube that sold brand new in the 60's for around $2....today..that tube can go upwards of 200 because they're not making them anymore. Oh...and make sure you throw the term vacuum tube in there too to get it in broader search results. I haven't heard anyone call them valves....unless they're from the UK.
Q:How to adjust valves?
after someone says take it to the shop, you can get the real service manual offline and do it. you need good feeler gages and a good feel for it. does your require shims or are the rockers adjustable?
Q:in a blowback paintball gun, what does the valve do & how does it work?
The majority of blowback paintball guns use a pin valve, which is opened when struck by the hammer. The hammer is held in the back position, with the spring compressed, by a sear. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer is propelled forward by the spring, into the valve. These sorts of markers generally use a “stacked tube” design, in which the valve and hammer is contained in the lower tube, while the bolt, which is connected to the hammer, is in the upper tube. The gas released by the valve is then simultaneously channeled up to the bolt to fire the paintball, and back to push the hammer back into the ****** position (hence the name “blowback”). Poppet valves are usually easy to replace and require little, if any, maintenance. The downside to this design, however, is its high operating pressure, which leads to a larger recoil and arguably less accuracy. The valve is usually designed to accommodate a specific operating pressure. Low pressure valves provide quieter operation and increased gas efficiency when tuned properly. However, excessively low pressure can decrease gas efficiency as dramatically as excessively high pressure. The volume of gas released by the valve directly affects the paintball's velocity. The velocity adjuster alters the pretension on the hammer spring which controls how long the pin valve is held open for, or more correctly how much gas must be released to push it back into the ****** position. EDIT - Sorry but wouldn't even know where to start on designing a valve.
Q:What does it mean when you have 2 heart valves?
Your mom probably has a Bicuspid aortic valve, that she was born with.. it means that the valve between her heart and the aorta has two valve leaflets instead of the usual three valve leaflets (not four) in normal people. Bicuspid aortic valve is caused by fusion of two of the three leaflets. It's a fairly common congenital condition, and is associated with a risk of aortic aneurysm (a weakening of the wall of the blood vessel which then causes ballooning of the vessel wall)...usually of the ascending aorta. All the best for her safe recovery.
Q:Triple Eccentric Butterfly Valve?
Above answers your question. I've used these and they work great. But they cost much more then your tradition quarter turn butterfly valve.
Q:How to drill hole through pipe for saddle valve?
This requires a water hook up kit. They're rather cheap - 20 to 30 dollars. For a distance such as yours, it's best to run the flex line from behind the fridge, down through a small drilled hole in the floor next to the wall, and under the floor. And along the basement ceiling, securing it to the floor joists in the basement ceiling, or drilling holes in the joists - as with running electrical wire. If the joists are laid in the same direction the hose needs to go, then it is simply secured in place with plastic loops against the side of one joist. When the hose reaches the area in the basement, just under the sink, a cold water pipe (probably half inch) will be easily accessible. The kit comes with a self tapping valve that will allow the hose to hook up without any tools. It simply clamps on to the cold water pipe and presses a hole in it for the fridge water. They're okay, but I never trusted 'em to remain truly leak proof. So I always just make a trip to the hardware store and get the fittings necessary to install a regular valve for this. The water line kits are sold at Home Depot, Lowes, Manard's, and the like. The instructions are easy to follow. And for the distance you are dealing with, you may need to buy the needed length of flex hose separately, and discard the too short section in the kit.
Q:Hot Water Heater Pressure Release Valve Leaking?
You might want to check the water pressure in your home. If it is too high, when the water is heated it expands and may exceed the pressure setting of the TP valve. You may need to lower the incoming pressure or install an expansion tank. Good Luck
Q:Clogged EGR regulator valve?
No, there is no way a clogged EGR valve can cause the car to stall. The EGR valve is only supposed to open and allow flow when the engine is under load so if it's flow is stopped all the time it behaves no differently at idle than a new valve. HOWEVER, if the valve is dirty or carboned up and the valve is getting sticky and not closing all the way when it's supposed to then it can cause a stall. Do you know what kind of car it is? Update: It's a 2002 ford focus wagon These cars have a very common problem with stalling and it is usually caused by rotted out rubber elbows on the PCV valve vacuum lines. If you follow every inch of the PCV hard lines there will be at least two rubber fittings on either end of the system, poke your fingernail into the corners to see if they have gone soft and cracked.
Q:How do you check a pcv valve?
take it out of the valve cover and shake it and if it rattles it's OK.
Q:which SUbaru STI blow off valve?
To correct alot of false answers here: DO NOT GET A BLOW OFF VALVE. A Recirculating valve is called a Bypass Valve. All Blow Off Valves go to the atmosphere. The only reason to get a new Bypass Valve is if you are running a bigger turbo and the stock one starts to leak. Im running 20psi on my stock turbo and the stock bypass valve holds fine.

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