• flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum System 1
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flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum

flexible ducts INSULATION aluminum

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Product Material

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

Product Feature

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
I doubt that is your best option. Check the roof for other venting souce like soffit vents, etc or even install an exhaust fan. Also, if this is a multistory building especially, look for other sources of mold nearer the affected areas. There are all kinds of ways mold can flourish - all have to do with moisture, but many if not most have nothing to do with airflow in the roof.
Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q:I have a converted loft which is really cold. The roof doesn't have any insulation, just a waterproof sheet, but i don't want to spend too much insulating it with the proper boards. If i use mineral wool and staple it across the roof trusses will it do a good job?
Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.
Q:Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
The warm air that collects in the attic is in close contact with the roof, heat is conducted through the roof and lost to the atmosphere.
Q:this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
Spray on expanding foam is best, paint on radiant barrier may work, blow in insulation in attic (cellulose or fiberglass) or put 12"x12" Styrofoam ceiling tiles on the ceiling, they look decent and not to expensive, installs with latex adhesive or staples. Good luck
Q:p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?
You don't need it to protect the rubberoid roof however considering the relatively low cost of the closed cell foam it would be cheap insurance to add it. A more pressing concern would be the drainage details.
Q:Why would you not insulate between the rafters in an attic? I see a lot of houses with no insulation on the inside of the roof.
A typical composite shingle would get too hot if you insulated the roof directly underneath it, decreasing life of shingle. You want good air flow in attic, insulate above the ceilings only.
Q:should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?
Should it be done, No. Thermal Insulation is put direftly above the ceiling. Not on the actually roof top. The reason being, that even though both methods will trap in heat, With the insulation on the arches of the roof, it still allowing heat into the Attic, Or roof space. This means that the top of the roof will infact be the warmest part of the house, and lot of heat will be lost. from the main rooms of the house.
Q:Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?
Unless this is a rental property, maintenance is NOT deductible. IMPROVEMENTS to your home effect the cost basis used to determine capital gain or loss when the home is sold. As you can excluded up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married filing jointly) of gain the sale of you home, it is unlikely you will see ANY tax benefit.
Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.

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