Chinese Portland Cement

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1.Vietnam standard (TCVN)

- Quality of Cement as per TCVN 6260 - 2009

2.European standard (EN)

- Certificate I -EN 197-1.2000- CEM II 42,5 R

- Certificate II - En 197-1.2000 CEM II 42,5N

- Certificate III - EN 197-1.2000 CEM I 42,5R

3.American standard (ASTM)

- ASTM C150 TYPE-1







Test Results

Test Method



≤ 26.00


EN 196-2



≤ 6.50




≤ 4.50




≥ 54.00




≤ 5.00




≤ 3.5


Loss on Ignition, (LOI)


≤ 10.00


Insoluble Residue


≤ 12


Physical and Mechanical Properties

Finess test

EN 196-6

-          Blaine


≥  3200


-          Retained content on sieve 75mm


< 15.0


Time of setting

-                      Initial set

-                      Final set


            ≥  75                      

< 420



EN 196-3

Soundness (LeChatelier)


< 10.0


EN 196-3

Compressive strength


EN 196-1

2 Days

≥ 20.0


3 Days



7 Days



28 Days

≥  42.5


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Q:equipments used for cement making?
cement mixer, with sand, shingles and water in it!
Q:exterior basement window needs covered, should I use molding or quickset cement?
It's best not to use any type of wood around basement windows. Cement bricks work well for in-filling around windows. Ridgid foam along with spray foam also work well to infill gaps around window prior to being covered with cement mortar. Pressure treated wood is an option. I personally don't like to use it on a clients home. Because it will eventually rot (usually along the bottom) due to it's close proximity to the ground and mositure within the existing wall. Use a cement mortar around the the window.
Q:Does rubber cement work, gluing rubber to steel?
For that application I recommend using contact cement. With a pencil, trace around the pad locations onto the gas tank. Apply contact cement carefully, within the lines on the gas tank. If the tank has been painted, lightly sand it (within the area to be glued) to make the area dull so it will accept the cement more readily. When this has been done, and the correct amount of time has passed, carefully position the pads on to the tank.
Q:Do i have to put cement board under tile on the wall?
Cement board is threat unfastened below the stool, yet no longer very gentle. I had carpet in my bathing room for years and enjoyed it!!!!!!!! i grow to be a unmarried guy returned then with below perfect cleansing skills. however the carpet grow to be perfect for that. It grow to be wall-to-wall throw carpet. while it regarded undesirable, %. it up, throw it interior the laundry, in spite of this on the floor. It regarded NEW any time i wanted! My spouse cringes on the belief of carpet now, yet she already is attentive to that at our next domicile my bathing room might have carpet returned. The carpet is offered in a extensive piece. You draw out the footprint of the floor then decrease it out with scissors. it somewhat is only like a throw rug. i individually choose it returned! i might propose slapping down low value vinyl tiles below the carpet so which you have gotten an entire floor on laundry day.
Q:Can you place stone tile over cement?
If I get what your trying to do is put an OUTSIDE stone pavers or similar outside stone product down over an old, very ugly, cement patio. Both previous answers would be correct if you were putting tile down INSIDE. Actually you can't put inside tile over cement either. I'm very sorry to tell you this, but you need to remove the old pavement first.The new stone has to sit on a sand or forgiving stable base otherwise it will never last and just constantly move on you. Remove the cement, level the area, put down a sand mixture for patio stones(easy to find), rent a vibrating stamper to help settle the stones in place, cover with more sand and sweep with a broom to fill the gaps between the stones, vibrate again, broom again etc. until gaps are filled and you are all set. The pavement should break no problem with a sledge hammer, problem is disposing of it. If it doesn't break easy, rent an electric jack hammer. They're not hard to work with, and will save your arms, trust me, I know from experience .
Q:How does one make Cement boots ?
First you got to find and catch the rat bastard who's going to wear them. Then you make a box out of plywood about 1.5 ft tall and big enough that he can stand in. Stand him in it and fill the box with cement. Quickcrete brand cement is usually your best option. Let it dry, then have your snitch try them out at the bottom of a river or lake. You should be able to find all the tools and supplies you need at your local hardware store.
Q:The newly established factory decoration workshop, with a lot of building materials, such as cement, steel, paint and so on, all the costs should be how to do accounting entries? Thank you!
The first floor of the second wall of the third floor there is one by one out of the best. What paint ah. Floor brick ah cement ah and so on
Q:Is contact cement flammable when dry?
Contact cement is a mixture of the actual bonding agent (the cement) and a solvent. The cement itself has a flammability rating similar to wood. It will burn as will wood but it is not a fire hazard like a low molecular weight solvent. The solvent is mixed w the cement to enable the installer to spread a thin film of the cement on the items to be cemented together. The solvent evaporates leaving the sticky cement which provides the adhesion. The solvent is flammable, in about the same range as is paint thinner or gasoline. However, once it has been evaporated and the vapors diluted the fire issue is gone. It is much like painting with a solvent borne paint; the solvent (often called paint thinner) is flammable. Once the solvent has evaporated away and diluted, the flammable issue is gone. You probably note that the directions tell you to have adequate ventilation. This is designed to dilute the solvent fumes and get them outside where they dilute further and decompose. This is critical.
Q:How much cement, water, and aggregates do we need?
Total volume of the mould is pi r^2 h = 3.14159 (30.48) (15.24)^2 cm^3 = 22240 cm^3 The usual practice is to dry-blend the solids before adding the water, but I'm going to assume you really mean that the water amount is 1/2 the cement amount (not 1/2 the amount of total solids). You really need only enough water to make the mixture workable, but if 1/2 the cement is the correct amount of water, then the needed quantities are water 22240/15 = 1483 cc = 1.483 liters cement 44480/15 = 2965 cc (dry) sand 44480/5 = 8896 cc gravel 44480/5 = 8896 cc total = 22240 cc Probably best to mix up a bit extra of all the dry stuff in case the amt of water needed turns out to be less than you think.
Q:how is cement prepaed? what are the uses and different types of cement?
I've been in exactly the same situation. We live on the edge of nowhere and can't get delivered concrete. We poured our greenhouse floor, using Portland premix cement and a mixer. Our mixer is slightly smaller than yours. We used extra water in the mix so it would stay workable longer. Bad idea! The floor did fine until the first winter. It then split, chipped cracked and, well, you get the picture. We ended up redoing it. The second time we divided the floor into three sections. Each section had its own small 3/8 rebar web placed 2 above ground in a 4 floor. We supported the web by driving 10 pieces of 3/8 rebar into the ground and wire to hold the web to them. Lastly, on the sides where the adjoining sections would go, we used 1 x 6 pieces of redwood. We drilled them and ran rebar through to the web – leaving 2' sticking out for attaching the new sections. That piece sticking out was attached to the next section's rebar web. It has been there for several years now, and has no cracks at all. Our temperatures range from 105°F in summer to -40°F in winter. I put a link in to show how to determine how many cubic yards of concrete you'll need. Good luck!

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