• Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro) System 1
  • Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro) System 2
  • Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro) System 3
Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro)

Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro)

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Specifications

Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro)
1.Competitive factory price
2.Prompt delivery
3.Good quality

Product Description

Cheap price galvanized iron wire( hot dipped or electro)  

  • Materials:   galvanized iron wire, black annealed wire, stainless steel wire.

  • Finished: Hot dipped galvanized iron wire, Electric galvanized iron wire

  • Advantages: excellent corrosion resistance;

                              Anti-aging property

                              longer service life

                              low in cost

  • Applicaitons:  Widely used in communication equipment, medical equipment, weaved mesh, brush, tightwire, filter slice, high pressure pipe, architecture, artcraft and so on .

  •                          Extensively used for making Chain Link Fence, animal cultivation, freeways and tennis courts.

  • Packing: Lined with PVC strips and wrapped with PVC or hessian cloth;

  •                 Small coils of 50m, 100m, 150m, 200m, and so on

  •                 As customer request

Specification of galvanized iron wire:

Galvanized Wire

Wire Gauge

SWG(mm)

BWG(mm)

Metric(mm)

8

4.05

4.19

4.00

9

3.66

3.76

4.00

10

3.25

3.40

3.50

11

2.95

3.05

3.00

12

2.64

2.77

2.80

13

2.34

2.41

2.50

14

2.03

2.11

2.50

15

1.83

1.83

1.80

16

1.63

1.65

1.65

17

1.42

1.47

1.40

18

1.22

1.25

1.20

19

1.02

1.07

1.00

20

0.91

0.84

0.90

21

0.81

0.81

0.80

22

0.71

0.71

0.70

Remark: customized order available


Q:I am replacing an electrical outlet that currently has 3 white and 3 black wires plus the ground wire. The bad outlet has 3 holes already in it for each of the wires but my new outlet does not, there are only 2 holes and/or the 2 screw on each side. How do I install this new outlet? Do I need to do the pigtail here?
The question needs clarification. Sorry from what I understand now you have a so called plug.We pros call it a duplex receptacle. Real pros don't like to push in wires into the spring holes. We use so called wire nuts (marrets). ,Make a joint with 2 of the 3 black wires and make a so called pigtail 1 piece of wire about 5 .and screw it onto 1 of the 2 screws.(The darker one of the 2 screws) The remaining 3 rd black wire screw directly onto the other dark screw. Do the same with the white wires.and wire them onto the lighter screws. To check if you did it right look at the front part of the plug. The newer plugs have 3 openings where you plug things in. 1 slit opening for the Hot wire.It is the smaller one.1 slit the larger one for the neutral. and the round one for the ground. If you really want to do it like a pro make sure the rounded hole is at the bottom . I hope this helps.
Q:i need to know how to rewire it to make it fire the only wire that is still there is the one that runs to the distributor cap all the other wires are gone is it sopose to wire to the key please help
+ wire is power wire the other small wire from the coil go's into the distributor (the metal part not the cap) the big wire to the cap.. sometimes the power wire comes from a resistor that reduces the voltage
Q:What is the best brand of wire to use for getting power to my amp?
Monster cable 10 awg
Q:The t-stat comes with EIT module. that wires to the t-stat and the furnace. I'm having trouble with the module to furnace wiring.
from the thermostat you match 1,2,3 wires to the module, from the module to the furnace. - R to R (this is your 24V hot) W to W (furnace 24V input G to G (fan for cooling 24V input) Y to Y (cooling 24V input), there should also be another wire that connects with this that goes to the condensing unit C to C ( Common - must have this connected for IAQ to work) as with the Y, there should be another wire to connect to this that goes to the condensing unit. - maybe W2 to W2 if you have a 2 stage furnace, you'll know if you have a 2 stage furnace because the W2 connection on the furnace will be present. - maybe Y2, if you have 2-stage cooling. if you have a humidifier connect both wires from the humidifier selinoid valve to each of the HUM terminals.
Q:Im currently running 8 gauge power wire from my battery to my amp which is a hifonics zxi8408 i have it bridged to 2 channels so its pushing 440 watts x2 to 2 alpine type Rs. The current speaker wire im running is 16 gauge.My question is...since im going to go down to 4 gauge power wire, should I lower the speaker wire and get 12 gauge speaker wire also? What will sound the best?
The okorder and buy some 10 or 8 gauge for the speaker wire and get some 4 gauge wire from them also. The prices are very good. Its really good wire too trust me i have all Knu Konceptz wiring and RCAs in my car with 7k watts. I got about 100ft of the KLMX 0 gauge wire and i'm using the 4 gauge KLMX wire for my speaker wire. You should get some of their 4 gauge it's good stuff with a lot of copper strands... no bullshit...
Q:can anyone please tell me what does hook-up wire mean and how does it differ from other kinds of wires such as light duty and heavy duty?Also,which one should I use for breadboards?
Hookup wire is a term usually reserved for wire sizes smaller than 16 AWG, usually single strand conductor. It is generally used in applications where current-carrying capacity is not of prime importance. Breadboarding is one of these applications, but usually uses 22AWG or smaller wire.
Q:Wiring
3 okorder /
Q:If I have wired my 20 amp kitchen receptacles with 12/2 wire which only has a red, black, and ground wire, do I use the red wire for a neutral and the black as a hot?
You deffinatly need to put white tape on that red wire and to make it known as being a neutral.... The black wire is always going to be a hot in receptacle circuits...
Q:Hello, I have a 4 year old Trane XR12 unit. Recently the compressor fan is noisy, and now stops when when under power after 5-10 min. The main fuses and breakers are fine, the fan spins freely when turned, the contactor pulls in fine, the dual capacitor checks out. But, the wiring of the capacitor does not match wire diagrams. Could this have caused the fan motor to prematurely fail?..............................Terminal: C red wire, FAN brown wire, HERM has both orange and purple. Schematic shows the purple wire should be with red wire on common C. The purple also leads to fan.
Hi, I looked at the schematic on-line. If you still have the original fan motor in the unit then you are correct. The center terminal on the capacitor should have the red wire from the T1 terminal of the contactor, the red wire from the compressor, and the purple wire from the fan. The FAN terminal should have the brown wire from the fan. The HERM terminal should have the orange wire from the compressor. The black wire from the fan and the black/blue wire from the compressor should lead back to the T2 terminal of the contactor. Again, that is if the motor is the original motor. If it was replaced at some point in time, the wiring colors can change from manufacturer to manufacturer, in which case it's possible that the new motor is wired correctly. There should be a diagram on the motor to show you the correct wiring configuration.
Q:In constructing a large mobile, an artist hangs an aluminium sphere of mass 6kg from a vertical steel wire 0.50m long. On the bottom of the sphere he attaches a similar steel wire, from which hae hangs a brass cube of mass 10kg. How would i calculate the tension in each wire?
The length of the wire is inconsequential unless you're calculating stretch. The tensile force in the upper wire is simply: Fu = 6 + 10 = 16 kg The tensile force in the lower wire is simply: Fl = 10 kg If you want tensile stress, then you need the wire's cross-sectional area.

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