• CG Self-priming Chemical Pump System 1
CG Self-priming Chemical Pump

CG Self-priming Chemical Pump

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Application: Chemical or water recirculation
Plating solutions including electroplating
Wastewater treatment

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Feature: 1. CPVC, PVDF, or FRPP construction.
2. Max. fluid temperature:
CPVC 75oC (167oF)/FRPP80oC (176oF)/PVDF 90oC (194oF).
3. High efficiency - low operation cost, leak-free operation and easy maintenance.
4. Excellent chemical resistance.
5. Independent thrust bearings for maximum reliability.
6. Fluid specific gravity up to 1.8.
7. Cycling liquid cools the seal and prevents it from overheating while dry-running.

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CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS
1. The motor shaft extension is coupled to a standard motor and is made of 316SS, a Teflon sleeve is installed over the shaft, there is no solution contact between the shaft assembly and the chemicals or solution being pumped.
2. The seal is cooled by the solution in the pump which running and by the design of the pump housing the mechanical seal is always submerged in solution so crystals cannot be formed around the seal when the pump is turned off.
3. CG/CK series, with the unique seal assembly, is easy to disassemble and replace. The fixed seal socket can be made of high temperature-resistant plastic PPS and is capable of operating up to 130oC while dry running. The remained liquid inside the pump head runs through the Teflon hose and cools the seal while dry running.
4. The unique Teflon bellows design with various seals such as Ceramic, Carbon, SIC and Hastelloy-C Spring ensure excellent durability in corrosion resistance. Fixed-seal & rotational-seal are made of various materials, SIC, Carbon, Ceramic and can withstand various chemicals.
5. Self-priming series, designed with self-priming cover excellent self-priming performance up to 20 ft. (3" in/outlet models cannot do self-priming well.)
6. Symmetrical body structure eliminates leakage due to deforming caused by injection molding.
7. The pump connections are standard 11/2", 2" or 3" flange connections depending on model and size.


 
 

Q:All water pump have diferent caracteristics, but it is imposible to overcome a certain hight...what is that hight and why?
If you are talking about the limit on the suction side of a pump then the answer is about 34 feet. This is because due to atmospheric pressure that is all the water can be raised without the portion at the bottom of the column starting to vaporize. 14.7 psia (atmospheric pressure) equals 33.9 feet of water.
Q:Pump head is too high what's the impact?
After the determination of the pump type, such as the actual pump lift is too high, it will not only result in lower efficiency of the pump, and will seriously affect the actual flow of the pump to Q decline. On the contrary, if the pump head selected too high, but the actual operation of the lift is too low, is also affecting the pump efficiency and decrease caused by actual operation when the flow is too large, it is likely to increase the pump power beyond the rated current of the motor and the heating.
Q:What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q:How do I replace the water pump on a 1996 Mercury 200 hp outboard engine? I have the parts, but want to make sure I replace it correctly. Thanks!
Save yourself a lot of time and trouble and take it to a certified Mecury mechanic.
Q:Fully automatic self-priming pump
It's difficult to answer your question only from the name you give! There are many automatic self suction pumps on the market. Generally, the pump outlet is equipped with a pressure switch. It starts automatically when the pressure is low, and stops after a certain pressure.If the pump outlet is the pool (water tank), then it is not a simple "automatic self-priming pump".It is an automatic water supply system. The whole system includes water pump, water tank, liquid level meter, electromagnetic starter (contactor), switch and so on
Q:starting from the water pump, and returning to the water pump
this question is stupid. GOOGLE IT LOL
Q:My truck has been over heating, and I cant figure out whats going on...the only thing that gets really hot is the upper radiator hose, and the radiator....I just noticed there was a plug unhooked from the water pump, what does that do? Or maybe it could be the thermostat? It just overheats, and when I park it, it wont start half the time, usually I can let it cool off and go, but sometimes it just dies and I have to let it cool off and jump it off.
Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton repair manual at Autozone, Pep boys, etc. Make sure you clean the old gasket material completely off the block before you mount the new pump. If not, you'll leak and have to do it all over again.
Q:I am putting in a new water pump this morning on my 2006 chevy trail blazer and i rented the clutch fan removal tools but im new at this and i cant afford anyone else to do it. any advice for a rookie it looks so simple am i wrong
It is very easy and straightforward. The hardest part is the fan clutch unless you have the proper tools. You have that part covered. DO NOT USE ANY SILICONE SEALER!!!!! Be sure all traces of old gasket are removed and install the new gasket dry. Use an anaerobic sealer on the wet bolts. Those are the ones that are through drilled into the water passages. Clean off the threads then use a light coat of sealer. I use either Permatex (brown stuff in the tube) or pipe joint dope. Now is also a great time to flush the system, replace thermostat, and drive belt(s).
Q:I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
i would suspct waterpump
Q:i have an 80' water well with an electric jet pump. is there an electric/manual water pump? i want to be able to have a hand pump attached to the electric pump, so i can still use water when the electricity goes out.
Bison makes a hand pump that can be installed in the same casing as your existing electric pump.

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