carbon steel elbow

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Specifications

The most professional flange manufacturer.We offer steel pipes and pipe fittings with high quality and low price.




Product Description

Specifications

carbon steel A234 WPB 90deg LR elbow, tee, reducer and cap
size : 1/2"-48"

w.t.: sch10-sch160, SGP , XS, XXS, DIN ,STD

name

ASTM A234 WPB  carbon steel ELBOW , tee , reucer, and cap

Size

1/2" - 48"

Angle

45° 90 ° 180° ,

Wall thickness

Sch5-Sch160 XXS,STD,XS, SGP

Standard

ASME  B16.9, GOST 17375-2001, DIN2605 and JIS B2311, EN10253-1 etc.

we can also produce according to drawing and standards provided by customers.

Material

Carbon steel pipe fittings , alloy steel and stainless steel.

Packaging

Wooden Cases, wooden pallet , or carton box , or nylog bag and then in wooden cases


Surface Treatment

Paintting black color , and Shot blasted,anti-rust oil ,

Delivery Time

20-30 days, after received advance payment.

Quality

First grade

Others

1.Special design available according to your drawing.

2.anti-corrosion and high-temperature resistant with black painting

3. All the production process are made under the ISO9001:2000 strictly.

4. A conformity rate of ex-factory inspection of products.

5. we have export right , and we can quote FOB , CNF CIF price




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Q:What is "mmc.exe"/"Device Manager"?
obviously you don't know what you are doing so call someone who does,,, you can end up burning your house down,,,,and no the horns may not work with just any system,, depends on the voltages used!! and learn english,, there is no such thing as : has went off
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If the leak is constant which means it happens even when you have your faucets turned off, then yes, you have a leaky pipe. Your pipes could be copper or PVC. In both cases, you have no choice but to get to the pipe, find the leaky section and replace it. Here are some steps. 1) Check the 1/4 turn shutoff valve under the cabinet, is it wet? wipe it dry and observe it. If you can see water coming out of it, then you will need to replace it. Most of them are compression fittings so you will need to shut off the water, drain the tube by opening all faucets in your house and then unscrew the valve and replace it with an identical one. Might as well replace the supply lines while at it. 2) if the problem is not the valve, then you have a leaky joint. Had one not too long ago in my house. You need to get to it soon before it destroys your house. You have to cut the drywall and start looking around until you identify the leak. Again, dry the joint and observe and confirm to be the source of the leak. Drain pipes and cut it out using a pipe cutter or a hacksaw. Make sure you never cut too close to a joint ootherwise, you won't be able to install the new pipes. The get some copper piping, splices and elbows. Using flux, a torch, and a cleaning brush, solder together the replacement structure and finally solder it back in. Open your water and check for leaks. If you did it right, the leak will go away forever. If it is PVC, then follow a similar process, but just use the PVC glue and primer instead of solder and torch.
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Projects like yours are difficult to estimate without knowing all the details: things like location, accessibility, depth of bury, cause of failure, type of material and number of connections or fittings, all play a role in preparing a proposal. Therefore it’s difficult to evaluate your specific quote. I can talk about solving your pipe problem. Replacing the pipe is one option, but there are a couple of different in-place pipe repair techniques that could save you time as well as money. One option, pipe bursting, involves bursting your existing pipe from within while pulling a new pipe through the space to replace the old one. This is one possibly viable solution to your problem, there are several including a cured-in-place lining. Many local plumbers offer this technology and can prepare a proposal for you at no cost. I'd recommend getting at least 2-3 bids so you can compare prices.
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If you have a pipe cutter, you can remove the section, that is, if you can live without that half-inch. If you're replacing it with another compression fitting, you would do well to place it on a section of the pipe that isn't marred up or corroded. Personally, I can't stand the compression fittings. I'd rather sweat the pipe and fixtures in place. You might consider that. It's well worth it, if you do minor plumbing like this, to spent the few bucks and get a pipe cutter, it gives a smooth cut and can fit in some really tight places.
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What you can do is use a light fitting for outdoor use at home and then weld a spike to a pipe and weld a base on top and then mount the light on that. Not only will you have light, but it will look good too. Put a hook on the to tie the cable to in case they trip over the light that it doesn't pull out the cable from the light and also to pull the pipe out.

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