• Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard System 1
  • Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard System 2
  • Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard System 3
Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard

Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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1. Structure of Check Valve Description


This product is designed and manufactured fully in accordance with API Spec 6A wellhead and Christmas tree equipment standards,and can thus be used interchangeably with the products manufactured at home and aboard,which tally with API Spec 6A specifications ,or used to form a complete system.


This is a type of check valves which rely on the pressure of working medium to get meal-to-meal sealing between the core and body(seat). The higher the medium pressure,the better the sealing performance. It is always able to withstand the pipeline pressure within the value cavity.


The body of the valve is forged with alloy steel,which has solid mechanical properties and is able to withstand high pressure in safty and reliability.


The bonnet and the body of the valve are connected with blinding bolts. Sealing washers are used to seal up the bonnet and the interior wall, which reduces the space in between to a minimum (designed as 0),thereby considerably minimizes the erosion of the bolts and the bolt holes,caused by erosive  media,and also decreases the load taken by the bolts.


2. Main Features of Check Valve


1) Fitted  with a valve-opening indicator
2) Designed with the relief valve
3) Designed with the plane thrust bearing structure
4) Designed with the meal-to-meal sealing structure
5) Fitting with the valve stem sealed by using some special material made lip-shaped packing
6) Made of high wear-resising& corrosion-resising materials, both the valve core and bean are durable
7) Designed and manufactured strictly in accordance with API Spec 6A ,ANSI and NACE MR-0175 standards.


3. Check Valve Images

Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard

Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard

Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard


4. Check Valve Specification


Check Valve of High Quality with API 6A Standard


5. FAQ of Check Valve


We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:


①How about your company?

One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing Oilfield products in China, mainly offering various of oilfild products consists of our one-stop sales. The integrated sales & service ensures customers with various demands an easier access for purchasing management.


②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.


③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.


Q:need a different pump for? Is this some improvement on the old valve?
first off they are not new ;-) These two standards have been around a long time. valve stems come in two types, schaeder and presta. Now i sometimes get these mixed up but I think Presta is the narrower valve. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me ;-) Either way there are these two types. Here we are referring to width/diameter not length. the thicker valves are usually on mountain bikes, some comfort bikes. the thinner narrower valves are usually on road bikes, some cross bikes, the type with skinny tires. Most bike pumps these days whether floor pump to mini pump will work for *both* Schaeder and Presta. The valve end on your pump (unless it's a piece of c*^ from Wallmart) SHOULD simply unscrew, reverses and voila! You can now pump up the tires of your MTB and your road bike or help another rider out! Now, on to your actual question ;-) Sorry for the drift. the long valve stems have to do with Aero wheels. These are rims, usually carbon that are designed to be very narrow and literaly slice the wind for faster acceleration. these are usually road bike rims, the skinny tires. Examples of Aero rims would be like Rolf Elan. Because of the design of the aero rim a longer valve stem is needed or it would literaly be lost within the carbon rim. But you don't have to have aero rims to have a tube with a longer stem. The stems on most tires are available in long, short, medium. I like to have the length match, it's just an aesthetic thing. But the function is exactly the same and the difference in weight is negligable. So to sumarise if you have aero rims you *must* choose tubes with a longer valve stem. If you don't have aero rims you can use them if you like, doesn't really matter, it's all what you like. but you do not need a different pump.
Q:My valve cover gasket has less them 2k miles on it and i noticed in some areas there is a lil oil shine around it so i was thinkin maybe i have to retighten the valve cover a lil bit more?
maybe so.some valve covers have stops built in to keep you from overtightening and cutting the gasket,some dont.if you used silicone,and it didnt set up,youll never hold it now.
Q:Is there any application usuage of ball valve in comparison,most engineers opinion is as Valve size get reduces in reduced port.Other than this what paramteres decides in selection of either of one
W.W. Grainger out of Chicago ships all over the world, also McMaster-Carr Supply.
Q:And why is it so expensive?So after many months of trying to figure out why my 93 Mercury Cougar V6 has been breaking down chronically, I was recently told it needed a valve job. At 21 years old and just over 83k, l suppose that's the big issue.What exactly is replaced/fixed with a valve job? Will my car run like new AND STAY THAT WAY? Thanks :)
Oh your mechanic sounds a peach! But then again your not exactly clear! Define breaking down, Testing valves is a relatively easy job,if the mechanic owns a leak down tester, and results are conclusive! Using one I can narrow valve faults to specific valves, no question. But you need to know exactly what is happening. is the engine hot/cold, short distance or long, after re fueling or when going up hills, take notes, good ones, the more you can tell a tech about what/when it happens the better they can get to the bottom of it. Just saying it broke down is less than useless.
Q:I think the piece leaking is a valve;it is one solid piece of copper with two tubes, one which is a half inch that connectsinto the incoming hot water and then a small outgoing one that connects to the faucet and I don't know how to find a replacement part .. I think it is a Delta but I am not sure ... the house is 10 years old but where can I just find a valve instead of replacing the entire faucet if I don't know what the make or model is ?Any websites with pics of replacement valves for Roman Tubs??
Remove the valve and take it to a plumbing supply store. Home Depot and the like may have what you're looking for; but you're more likely to find it at a plumber's supply. They are the only ones I've ever found who carry odd bits.
Q:Someone explained on chevy that valve guide clearance can limit lift.
You got a couple of things mixed up Valve guide to valve spring retainer clearance is what limits lift. Thats the space from the top of valve guide to the bottom of spring retainer. Or from a lift stand mount, how much the spring/retainter can move down before bottom of retainer hits top of the guide The valve guide clearance has nothing to do with lift. Its the clearance between the inside of guide and outside of valve stem. Pretty much the amount the valve can move left to right, fowards to backwards inside the guide
Q:I have a 98 Mitsubishi Mirage, seems there is a valve cover oil leak, i know this can be easily fixed by replacing the gasket.. but how will i know if the leak isn't from the valve cover gasket . Is the cylinder head gasket a major issue also .. if its not really the valve cover thats producing the oil leak should i not worry and just replace the valve cover gasket .?
Valve cover leaks are typically characterized by what you're experiencing: oil oozing out from the cover/cylinder head mating surfaces. If this were your cylinder head gasket, then you'd be experiencing some problems with how the engine runs ...very unlikely it would cause oil to leak from the valve cover. *Do not* simply wrench down on the bolts holding the valve cover; all you will do is crush the gasket and create a bigger leak. Two things you need to do: replace the valve cover gasket and make sure your PVC or crankcase vent system is not blocked. Swapping the gasket is pretty obvious ...they get old and dry out and leak. Checking/cleaning the crankcase vent system keeps compression blow-by gases (a normal thing in engines) from pressurizing the crankcase and forcing oil to seep out in places it shouldn't. A healthy, properly working crankcase vent system helps prevent this.
Q:do I need a new water heater or can this ne be fixed?
change the valve.
Q:how do i adjust the valve lash my book sys to torque to 136 in lbs but my wrench is only in ft lbs
This Site Might Help You. RE: what is valve lash i dont get it? how do i adjust the valve lash my book sys to torque to 136 in lbs but my wrench is only in ft lbs
Q:i have a 1997 dodge avenger ES with a 2.5L v6. im wondering if my EGR Valve could be bad i get about 14mpg on gas. my car has a poor idle but will not stall idle gets kinda bad if the airconditing is on. I did a complete tune up and yes it was done right. and i changed my Idle air control valve. after i changed the valve i drove a few miles and i got a check engine light for insuffecient EGR flow but then it went away and never came back. I took the valve off and cleaned it with carb cleaner. im trying to find out why my ide is kinda poor and if the car sits a few days it takes a little longer to start.my motor has 142k miles but has been properly maintained.
The EGR must be closed at idle and open as you cross quicker. If your EGR have been caught closed, it could don't have any final result on driveability. If your EGR is caught open, probabilities are it in most cases may not idle for lengthy earlier than dieing. I could blank the MAF sensor placed simply after the air filter out. Use BrakeClean spray. You did not say whatever approximately the gas injectors. I could placed an injector cleanser within the tank (it would possibly not support however its inexpensive than exchanging them). You would dispose of the spark plugs and notice if any seem discolored indicating a persistant pass over. This would point out the cylinder or cylinders with disorders similar to plugged injector, dangerous coil, something.

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