• Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch System 1
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch System 2
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch System 3
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch System 4
Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch

Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 12 inch

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve

The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.

Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball

The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.

ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.

Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.

Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.

Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve

Design   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Connection   Standard

 ASME   B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME B 31.4  ASME B   31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Face   to Face

 API   6D customize 

Pressure-teperature   rating

 ASME   B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS   SP-25 customize 

FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.



Q:I just installed a iac valve on my 2001 blazer but didnt go through the reset steps. Do i have to unistall and do the steps or go from here with the reset. Truck stalls out now and surges... Or could i just hava a defective part.
The okorder /
Q:My third valve won't move at all. I haven't played my trumpet in a while and I tried to oil it to get it to unstick but it still won't move at all. People say to screw it off but I can only unscrew the little cap at the bottom of the valve where you push in, not the white button at the top. Help please! Thank you so much! =]
on the top of the valve there is the screw that you turn to open the valve to oil it. if this screw wont turn gently tap the edges of it with the rim of your mouthpiece, and make sure that you get the entire screw cap. if this doesn't loosen it enough to remove the cap, then repeat while hitting it at an angle in the direction that it needs to turn. if this doesn't work take off the bottom cap and drip valve oil up though the bottom to drip up to the top cap and continue with the tapping process. if it still wont move, you need to take it to a shop. once the upper cap is loose, the valve still wont move, this is when you take off the bottom valve cap (if you haven't already) and fully remove a different valve that has already been oiled and push it up through the bottom of the stuck valve, this might be hard to do, and you might need to put in a lot of valve oil into the bottom to get it to move. once this valve is removed, thoroughly clean the valve casing and the valve itself, and oil both before replacing the valve. Hope this helps.
Q:Compare and contrast stenosis and regurgitation (insufficiency) in terms of the functional abnormality associated with the valve leaflets and their effects on hemodynamic parameters such as stroke volume.
stenosis okorder /
Q:I'm going to replace a valve guide and wondering how I should do it.Should I drill into the existing valve guide to the point it's small enough to pinch with some pliers and pull it out?When I put the new one in, should I use a wooden dowel and an air nailer to pound the guide into place?The more info. the better. It's my first time doing this.Thanks!
Ohhhh man. NO DRILLS. I assume you are referring to an Aluminum Cylinder head. To do it correctly you need a drift punch that has a pilot size of the valve stem, and an outside diameter that is just a few thousands smaller than the guide. Disassemble the head completely, put in Moms oven at the highest setting it will go to ( 5-6 hundred degrees ) Pound old guide out from the combustion camber side. ( have every thing ready to go this FFer will be hot ). Coat new guide with something like STP, put in freezer, carefully align it, then slam it home from the valve train side, don't pussy around, get it in before it attracts the heat of the head, if you stop or it stops you will have to repeat the entire process. If you gall the Aluminum ( say O-**** ) Since you have to hit this thing fairly hard you will need to refinish the inside of the guide with the appropriate reamer. Then refinsh Valve seat ( they never, NEVER line up perfectly )
Q:Where is the fast idle valve located on the dx or ex model year 89-91??? I found the fast idle on my si model but its different on the base model for some reason.
base models have no fast idle valve. if the rpm are going up and down inspect the water level in the system and have it bled. there might be air in it. if you are messing with the timing or adjusting the idle you are doing something wrong. do not adjust the throttle cable to adjust the idle. it will throw off the tps sensor. use the idle screw. if adjusting idle at the idle screw or timing don't forget to jump the ECU or you will waste your time. btw you know that the IACV needs to be unplugged when adjusting the idle right? no punn intended just checking.
Q:What is the easiest and best way to fix a leaking shut-off valve on a toilet?
Replace it there fairly cheap.Usally all you need is a wrench an pipe thread tape and a new shut off valve bably less than 20 bucks total.Just turn off the water an flush the toilet.Place a pot under the connection so it will catch any remaining water as you loosen the connection.There are 2 large nuts at each end of the shut off valve.Turn them conter clockwise to loosen an clockwise to tighten.Wrap the threads with pipe thread tape on both ends before installing the new shut off.Its probably one of the easiest do it yourself plumbing jobs there is.Once you have the new shut off installed an tightened turn the water back on an check for leaks.If it is leaking you may have to tighten your connection a little more.Good luck,I hope this helps.
Q:Need some info. Ok, four valves per cylinder is better than two valves per cylinder. Fine, why did Ford REVERT to only 3 valves (my guess is to save cost SOHC)? Audi and VW are using five valves per cylinder on some cars, does this offer any advantage over a four valve engine? Maserati even experimented with a six valve per cylinder!!!! (see link) http://www.maserati-alfieri .uk/alfieri26.htm but abandoned it (my guess is cost again?) Why are we stuck at four valves or would more valves actually render more horsepower? Pop some ideas best answer to reasonable answer...
There are multitudes of problems to resolve and strike a balance... ...In a zero valve, 2 cycle operation , clearing the cylinder of exhaust and recharge it is as basic as it comes..... ...In valved, 4 cycle operation, one valve each for exh and intake, has the least add-on linkages/cams , but limits the speed and completeness of clearing the exhaust and fully recharging the intake. By adding additional valving, the rapid removal of exhaust and recharging is accomplished, at great expense for add-on linkages/cams etc, and great loss of power...since you have many more items to accelerate and decelerate. The ideal valving, is to effectively remove the cylinder head for exhausting, and replace it for charging, but it would be a mechanical nightmare......therefore, compromises are made...2, 3, 4,6,....total head ???cost.. st...vs performance.
Q:okay so i recently brought a trumpet and the valve keys were getting stuck. i used the valve oil and it worked. but then when i put the valve key back in and tried blowing through no sound came out. i think it's because i didnt put it back in right. now my question is how do i put it in right? i tried everything but it's still not making a sound. thanks,
The first thing you should check is the order of the valves. take them all out and look on the sides of them for a number. One should have a 1 on it, another will have a 3 and the other one will probably be unmarked but that's obviously the one in the middle. On the outside of your trumpet there will be a 1 and a 3. The valve with the 1 on it goes in the slot that has a 1 on the outside, etc. Make sure you put these in right. if it's still not playing after you put the valves in and they're secured, twist the tops of the valves where the pearls are clockwise until they don't turn anymore. This should fix your problem.
Q:Do I need breathers too??? Cause I believe that there is a hose that runs from the valve cover to the carb then a breather as well??????? and If i do end up putting a hose in will it suck the oil out or just the gases casue the mopar vavle covers dont have anything blocking the oil and rocker arms from splashing on the PCV Vavle on the inside????? FEEDBACK IS APPRECIATED
Question- I am changing my valve covers and air cleaner on my 68 Plymouth Satellite. The old valve covers have a total of 3 holes. One is Oil fill, one for PCV Valve and the other is on the passenger side and is for a breather that has a 5/8 hose connected that ran to a barbed fitting on the outside of my old air cleaner. The new air cleaner has an open air filter housing (top plate only) so I have no place to hook up this 5/8 Hose from the breather. My new valve covers have 1 hole in each side. Do I need this breather?
Q:I was woundering if anyone had a repair manual for this valve on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. I just bought the car and Im getting the P1800 Code. Any help would be appreciated!
This is NOT a very serious problem. You have an ADJUSTABLE intake runner on this engine. THere is a vacuum operated CONTROL valve very visible with the hood open. It SHIFTS a doorway within the manifold to alter the path of incoming air. THere is a SOLENOID that controls this FLAP IT ALSO is easy to find in plain view if you follow the VACUUM to the valve. Many times ths VACUUM hose itself has collapsed, a VERY cheap repair. WOrst case scenario is to repalce either the SOLENOID or the actual VALVE. It has a rubber diaphragm within it. JUNK yards may have good used ones. You can remove the VACUUM to this valve, and try sucking on it to see if the valve MOVES the flap[ hidden inside the INTAKE MANIFOLD. EZ test, EZ fix. GOOD LUCK!!

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