• Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 1
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 2
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 3
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 4
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 5
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A System 6
Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A

Concentric overhead conducting wire JLHA1/G1A JLHA2/G1A

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
200 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product properties:  

1. The long-term working temperature allowed by overhead conducting wires is 70°C;  

2. When there are large-span rare weather conditions and there is less ice coating occurring in heavy ice areas, maximum stress the lowest point of the conductor sag should not be more than 60% of instantaneous destructive power;

3. When the wires are connected, strands around the connecting pipe should not bulge, otherwise the strands of wires in operation will be unevenly stressed, after the joints are pressed, outlets of connecting pipe should be covered with moisture-proof paint to prevent corrosion; 

4. When the wires are installed, sag stress of all the wires at the same gear should be the same, and within the range permitted by the limited distances to the ground and exceeding the distance for protection of building, the conducting wire stress can be higher by 10-15% than normal tension.  Scope of application:  This product is applied to overhead power transmission and distribution lines.


Scope of application:

This product is applied to overhead power transmission and distribution lines.


Type and Specification:

New Type

Original type

Description

Specification No.

JL

LJ

Aluminum stranded wire

10--1500

JL/G1A  JL/G1B

LGJ

Steel cored aluminum stranded wire

16--1250

JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF

LGJF

Anti-corrosion steel cored aluminum   stranded wire

16--1250

JLHA1   JLHA2

LHAJ

Aluminum alloy stranded wire

16--1250

JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A

LHAGJ

Steel cored aluminum alloy stranded   wire

16--1120

JL/LHA1  JL/LHA2

LLHAGJ

Aluminum alloy cored aluminum stranded   wire

16--1400

JG1A  JG1B  JG2A  G3A

GJ

Steel stranded wire

6--63

JLB1A  JLB1B JLB2

LBGJ

Aluminum-clad steel stranded wire

4--200






Q:Hi! I want to buy I new Hard Drive but I've got a problem. I have the IDE conector but I don't have the Power Cable. It is connected to my Video Card. Can I add a new one? Can I use a power cable from a optical drive(CD/DVD)? Thanks!
All you need to do is pop down to your local computer store and get a power splitter, just make sure you get the right type, IDE and SATA drives have a different kind of power connector, so just make 100% sure before you buy!
Q:I recently purchased a new power cable for my HP laptop (v6000 series) due to the disappearance of my old one. When I first plugged in the laptop, I noticed that it did not charge. I thought this might just be due to the fact that the battery has been dead for an extensive amount of time, but after leaving the computer plugged in over night, nothing has changed.What can I do to make my laptop's battery charge?Do I need to have a more powerful power cable?Thank you all for your help.
You may have bought a faulty power cable that does not connect fully with your adapter.Have you checked if the power indicating diode on your laptop is working? if not lighting or humming then it could be faulty. Check also if your Laptop power port is intact.
Q:I'm installing my car audio system in the morning. I have a 650w 4 channel amp for my four interior speakers and a class D monoblock amp for my sub.I have an 8awg wiring kit. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps. Is this thick enough for my setup?
1. We can't answer without knowing more about your amplifiers. 650w 4 channel doesn't tell us anything useful, because the power rating may be a peak number that's only good for marketing, and you didn't tell us anything about the monoblock amplifier at all. Give us brand and model numbers and we might be able to help. 2. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps ....no. That's now how it works. (I'm not sure how you envision splitting the wire to make two wires that are half the size; are you cutting it down the middle with a razor?) You can use a distribution block to connect both amplifiers to the same main power wire, but you don't have to go to a smaller wire out of the d-block: you can run 8-gauge wire from the battery to the distribution block, then more 8-gauge from the d-block to each amp. 3. Even if you did cut the 8-gauge wire in half, a wire half the size of 8-gauge isn't 16-gauge. It's 11-gauge. If you put six 16-gauge wires together, you'd get a wire that's a little smaller than 8-gauge. Please edit your question with the brand and model numbers of both amplifier, along with the estimated length of the wire run (ie, how many feet of wire do you need to go between the amps and the battery?) Then we can tell you what gauge wire you need. Edit: thanks for the update. Based on the information about your amplifiers, I don't think you should run both of them from the single 8-gauge wire. I'd switch to a 4-gauge dual amp kit, or you can buy a second 8-gauge kit and run each amp with its own power wire to the battery rather than sharing a single wire.
Q:the light on the power cable box is orange when the xbox is turned on does this mean the cable is broke or the console? thanks
try taking all the cables out from the back of your xbox and tv and re-attaching them properly. If this does not work, consider going to the microsoft website under the help section, and see if you can find the answer. If not, then ring them up for free and they will tell you.
Q:Why is the terminal metal housing of the power cable to be grounded?
WZC: W-halogen-free, ZC-flame retardant class C F46-poly perfluoro-propylene propylene Y - polyolefin sheath 2 - steel tape armor 2 - PVC outer jacket
Q:when the power cable comes out, the laptop turns off simple as that! it wont work unless the power cable is plugged in and turned on, and its not that the battery is flat because i had it charging all day.so does this mean the battery is broken?if so what do i need to do?? any help will be greatly appreciated!!
Recharge the battery without using the computer at the same time. If this doesn't work you need a new battery and, obviously, someone to do the technical work. Try the geek squad at CircuitCity. It may cost you a little bit but they should be able to fix it or tell you if there is anything else that can be done.
Q:got 1 amp in the back,i want to add another amp at the front without a distrubuter,could i trail another power cable from the battery to the amp?
Yes but there is no might it will kill ur battery really fast.
Q:Currently I have a 250GB drive and Writable CD/DVD. I wand to add a 3.51TB internal drive
You should be able to do so, provided you have the mounting space for the drive. You have to watch how you buy the drive - any OEM drive comes bare, with no cables (no SATA data cable). Other box stores selling drive may or may not include the data cable, you have to check. The power cable comes from your power supply, make sure you have a spare SATA power connector from the PSU...
Q:Does anyone know where i can find a power cable for sale for a 'Seagate Expansions 500GB External Desktop USB 2.0 Hard Drive ' ?
Radio Shack or any computer store can sell you a generic replacement power cable for the drive. You can also get a replacement USB cable for it while you're at it in case that cable is wearing out. - Stuart
Q:What fuse should I use to run my power cable to the amp?
I had a similar problem a few years ago and simply couldn't make sense of it. I traced the power wire back testing it every couple feet and eventually got to the AGU fuse holder. I had ~14v on the battery side and very little voltage on the amp side. It LOOKED fine, and the fuse was fine, but something weird going on in the fuse holder itself simply wasn't making a good connection. I replaced it and was back up and running. I'm not going to say that's definitely your problem, but it's worth a check,

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products