• Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm System 1
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm System 2
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm System 3
Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Products Description of Swing Check Valve

Check valves are used in pipes under pressures between PN1.6~16.0MPa(Class150~2500Lb), working temperatures-196~600, They are used in industries include oil, chemistry, pharmaceutical, fertilizer, and power gene-ration to prevent the backward flux of the media.

The main structure features of Swing Check Valve:

1The products feature a reasonable structure, reliable seal, good performance and nice modeling.
2
Either soft or hard seal can be selected for the product upon different working conditions.The sealing face is built up with Co-based 
carbide alloy, leaving a better wearability, corrosion and scrap resistance and a longer duration.
3
Small opening pressure, the disc can be opened fully with a very small pressure differential.
4
Inside-set bolt-bearing structure reduces leakage and reliable use.
5
PN≥16.0Mpa (class1500), the middle cavity uses a self-tightening sealing structure to have the sealing performance reinforced along 
with the pressure rise so as to ensure the sealing performance.
6
Different parts materials and different sizes for flange, butt-welding are available for sensible combination according to different working facts and customers' requirements.

Parameter of Swing Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 GB customize 

Pressure Rating

 1 Mpa  1.6 Mpa  2.5   Mpa  4 Mpa  6.4 Mpa  10 Mpa  16   Mpa customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65 mm  80   mm  100 mm  125 mm  150 mm  200   mm  250 mm 300 mm  350 mm  400   mm  450 mm  500 mm  600 mm customi

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Wafer customize 

Medium

 Oil  Steam  Water customize   

Medium Temperature

 -196~600 customize   

Structural style

 Swing double-clack   structure customize 

Application Fields

 Agriculture  Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

1-Body Material

 CF3  CF8C  CF8  WCB  CF8M  CF3M customize   

2-Disc

 CF3  CF3M  WCB  CF8  CF8M  CF8C customize   

3-Pivot

 1Cr13  1Cr18Ni9Ti  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti  2Cr13 customize   

4-Spring

 60Si2Mn  1Cr18Ni9Ti  4Cr13  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti customize   

Design Standard

 GB/T 12224 customize 

Connection Standard

 GB/T 9113  HG   20592  JB/T 79 customize 

Test Standard

 JB/T 9092-1999 customize 

Face to Face

 GB/T 15188.2-1994 customize 

Images of Swing Check Valve:

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 200 mm

FAQ of Swing Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.


Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Q:i was filling the tire on my car and the valve stem completely came out when i finished, quickly deflating the tire. i could push it back in but then the process repeated itself when i tried refilling it again. is there part of the stem i'm not seeing. the stem that i saw was long and straight and threaded. advise, thoughts? thanks.
get a new valve stem. this one has gone bad. valve stems are very cheap. have someone at a tire store install it though.
Q:We have a 4 station sprinkler set-up. On the 4 station (last station to run) the Sprinkler headers are struggle to pop up water. From inside the house I hear the valve making a noise, that continues through out the entire run cycle. Any ideas on what causes these 2 problems to occur?
Sounds like you have a valve that is not opening up fully. Is the noise coming from within the valve box or from the plumbing inside the house? I am assuming that it is coming from the valve box itself. If the valve is not opeing fully at that 4th station, the low volume of water flowing through the opening is causing a humming sound. And, with a low volume of water entering the lateral lines, your last station heads will not popup all the way, or may not popup at all. Check to make sure that you have no soft, wet, mushy areas on the turf in the last station area that would indicate a lateral line breakage or leek. If you do not see this occuring, you more than likely need to change out the valve and replace it with a new one for that particular system... Hope this answers your question. ...Billy Ray
Q:My pressure reducing valve (or restricting valve) was looked at by three master plumbers and they all said I need a new one. My water pressure has been low for weeks. It measures about 100 psi at the outside hose bibs, but it is very low inside and suddenly reduces after you turn on the facets inside. The shower is ok. My automatic sprinkler system is not able to work now due to low pressure. A relative of mine thinks we can just add a handle (as one is missing) on the valve and adjust the pressure ourselves. The repair of the valve is around $500-600! I am told in Texas that we have to have a permit and inspection to repair this valve. Also I was told by the last plumber that came out, that I have to install a expansion tank on my new hot water heater according to code. I'm not sure if that is a city code or federal. Please respond as to information you may have on this problem. The expansion tank is required I'm told when you have a pressure reducing valve for safety, is this true?
The cost you quoted seems a bit high to me. Mine didn't cost anywhere near that amount in East Texas. A pressure reducing valve acts like a check valve when there is no flow. That is it closes as the pressure rises when you are not using any water. In this condition, the hot water heater can raise the pressure even higher since there is no place for the expanding water to go. That is the reason for the expansion tank. Without the expansion tank the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater can relieve unnecessarily or weep a bit.
Q:I had some great answers to my question yesterday... I have decided to have the valve job done... Since I have decide to go this route... I need some reassurance, the few people I have suggessed this option to have now told me that typically after a valve job other problems will start showing up. They have said that the car isn't worth putting money into and to get ride of it.
well, is the car in good shape otherwise, like the tranny, suspension and the body?, if it is, then its probably wort a valve job, its cheaper then another motor.
Q:I have a 1987 Chevy Blazer with a 5.7 liter 350 engine. Where is the PCV valve located on it?
My guess would be in one of your valve covers,Look for the black hose hooked to it.
Q:Hi. I am planning to install new kitchen faucet and noticed that there are two shut off valves under the sink. One of them is badly rusted and needs to be replaced. I noticed that it is connected to three pipes (one of which is kitchen faucet). The other is clearly water coming in. What is the third one connected to wall? Also how should I go about replacing this? Anything that I should be careful of?
make a drawing of what you have. . .take it to Home Depot or better yet, a plumbing suppy place. They will be able to replace what you have. Just replace what you have and it will work. The interesting thing about shutoff valves is that they are always broken when you need them and work when you don't. They last no longer than what you are protecting. Buy the best ones they have. I have a strange one that is connected to three pipes. . .the water comes in one and goes out to the faucet and the dishwasher. . .three pipes. That's the hot water. And then the cold water comes in and goes up to the faucet. .the second shutoff.
Q:Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?
If the antisyphon valve is not leaking maybe you should focus attention on the main valve ( assuming it is a solenoid valve) to see if it closes completely. Another thing, if the irrigation zone is on an incline then the water in the system will drain to the lowest point. Sometimes it drains slowly causing the impression of a leaky feed valve.
Q:The timing belt in my 93 honda accord went out going about 45mph,i then paid someone 150 dollars to put in the new timing belt and it began to shake and he told me that the valves were bent.....i went to a local mechanic and he told me that the valves in honda accords dont bend...is this true?and how much is an average cost to repair the valves and pay someone to do all this?can i do it myself?
OK the valves int eh honda when the timing belt goes will impact the top of the cylinder. Now wether this bends them or not isn't the issue what is the issue is that there is damage to what is called the top end of the engine. A new head, is your best bet. As long as it didn't crack a piston when the valve hit the piston. If you are mechanically able I would go get a used head from a junkyard. go to a shop and have it checked for cracks etc. and have the valves checked. Not necessarily a valve job done unless it needs it. Put that on and that should fix your shaking issue. This is the route I have taken on numerous engines.
Q:I don't have one single water shutoff valve in my house that will shut anything off completely. It looks fairly easy to repack them, and I have the tools, and there are instructions all over the internet. The question I have for the experienced among you is what packing material do I use? I have heard graphite thread and teflon tape and even joint compound.Is one better than the other? Easier to use?Also, if there are any pitfalls I should know about before I undertake this, please advise.Thanks in advance!
Well if you talking about the water shutoff valves under sinks then you need to first shut off the water comming into the house at the main shutoff valve near the street , Or at a line comming into the house that connects up to the valve you are trying to fix or you may take a slight bath while trying to fix the valve that wont shutoff. Then Go to the shutoff valve you want to repair in that line where you shut the water off at and unsrew the handle at the base of the handle shaft using two wrenchs to hold both the nut on the shaft while using the other to hold the shutoff valve .this will prevent twisting the valve right off the connecting lines. Most of the time you will find it has a rubber gromet attached by a screw to the handle shaft.this is what you need to replace with a new rubber gromet which you can get in an assortment box at wal mart or homedepot or lowes for a low price. If you are using teflon thread or jointcompound you are repairing a Pipe joint leak where water is leaking externally of the pipe,not a shutoff valve leak .
Q:Help! I've got this leaky CPVC valve in a new plumbing setup for a water heater. It only drips when open. :( It's going to be a real pain to replace it. Is there any way to tighten this thing up? It looks like there is a plastic pop off panel on the knob for the valve but I'm not sure. Thanks for any help!
Turn off the main water to your house. Turn that valve to open. Then tighen the nut on it (slightly), see if the valve will close , if yes; then tighten it a little more, then see if the valve will close. If yes - that should do it. If the nut is so tight that the valve will not close, then loosen the nut just a tad. That should do it, ......... now, turn the valve off. Turn back on the main water to your house -- and see if that works.

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