ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

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Basic Info. of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality


ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Model NO.:ASP5610-300

Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps


Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump


Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps



Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.
Packing:Wooden Case


Production Capacity:50, 000 PCS/Year


Product Description of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Foot-mounted is applied on the pump casing and the pump is designed according to GB13008Technical specifications for mixed and axial flow pumps
ASP5610 series chemical axial flow pump includes horizontal, radial, cantilever type.
The pump is safe and reliable with steady operation and easy maintenance.
The pump is steadyhydraulic performance, high efficiency, and has large range of application. It is high efficiency and energy saving product.
Sealing can be packing seal and double mechanical seal, driving method can be directly-connected or belt drive,
Rotation direction: When getting from top and discharging from end, the pump rotates anticlockwise from the drive end. (Standard structure)
When getting from end and discharging from top, the pump rotates clockwise. (When user requests, the impeller nut is front seal head. )

Application Area of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Transmit liquid that is nomal temperature, liquid that is neutral or corrosive; Liquid that is clean or includes solid particles. Especially applicable to circulation system that is for salt&alkali making.
Irrigation and drainage equipment
Sugar industry
Paper making and paper pulp industry
Chemical industry and petrochemical industry
Salt making and alkali making industry

Performance Range of ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality

Capacity Q ~11000m³ /h
Head H ~11m
Work pressure P ~0.6Mpa
Work temperature t -20~180º C



Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


ASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High QualityASP5610 Series Chemical Axial Flow Pump with High Quality


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Q:how much do new brakes and a water pump cost?
Brakes aren't very expensive if you do it yourself. If it's just pads your looking at $20 and a little d.i.y. If it needs rotors or calipers walk away now. He knows it's going to need a new water pump? Sounds like a recurring issue then. A water pump isn't something you can really spot the wear on until you either hear it beginning to knock or see your coolant on the ground. But if it's doing either of those things the car isn't drivable. Water pump will run you about $70 for the part. Your probably looking around $200 for the part and install. My advice, take your money and walk away.
Q:well water pumps and systems?
Your bladder tank is water logged, you will need to drain the holding tank and refill then check pressure, you will probably have to add air to the tank. There will be a shrader valve (the same kind of valve on your vehicle tire, use a tire gauge) near the top of your tank. Check the pressure first, if the pressure is low(there is a tag telling you what the pressure should be) you will probably have water at the Shrader valve. Very common where soil is sandy.
Q:i have a 9.9hp evinrude not pumping water properly?
Q:2003 ford focus water pump?
Take it to a dealership.
Q:Best water pump and filters for hiking?
I like the MSR miniworks because it is reliable and easily serviceable. The downside is that it is heavy. If weight is an issue, I will either use bleach or Aquatabs to treat the water.
Q:Diving pump voltage
This is the reason why the line is too long and the power consumption is too large
Q:Water pump is constantly running! please help!?
you have what is called a water logged tank!! that means you are not putting enough air into it to act as a pressure source for the water,, this makes the prsessure switch kick on and off constantly,, if you have a bladder in your tank you have to add air thru a bicycle like valve usually on top of the tank,, if no bladder then you have to drain all the water from the tank and then screw everything tight before you turn it on to refill with water!! the air in the tank will compress then!! or or pressure switch was not bled right!!!!
Q:how can you tell if your water pump in your car is going bad?
Q:Is this noise from my water pump?
wiggle the fan blades and if they move any it is a bad water pump, they will also leak a little bit under the main shaft of the water pump housing, there is a hole on the bottom and top just for this reason, the metal squealing is the impeller in the water pump, it wont last long now I agree....assuming you did put enough coolant back in it after changing the radiator.
Q:Can a leaking water pump ruin brake lines?
Very doubtful. Even getting anti-freeze on a timing belt should not ruin that. If you had no idea when it was last changed, and it showed signs of cracking, then it would be a good idea to replace it. Make sure to retain mileage records of when it was done. Did he specifically say the brake line rot was related? There are metal lines leading out to the suspension points and then rubber reinforced hoses for the last foot to 18 inches to the backing plate/brake caliper. Usually the rubber line is the first to go. The metal lines can last many decades.

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