||1000 Series,3000 Series,5000 Series
Structure of Aluminium PVDF Powered Coated in Coil Form Description:
Coated aluminum coil/sheet are of a wide range of colors, which gives wonderful appearance no matter in residential and commercial constructions of great exhibition centers.
The coated aluminum coil/sheet have been widely used in the fields of construction and decoration( garage doors, ceiling etc.), electronic appliances, lighting decoration, air-condition air pipes, sandwich panels and drainages etc.
Main Features of theAluminium PVDF Powered Coated in Coil Form:
1) High flexibility
2) Impact resistance
3) Excellent weather-proof durability
5) High erosion resist
Images of theAluminium PVDF Powered Coated in Coil Form:
Aluminium PVDF Powered Coated in Coil Form Specification:
From 0.024mm to 1.2mm
2.5 T/coil,3.0 T/coil
PE, PVDF, AC
Embossed, mill finish, coated
AS to code RAL
PE: more than 18 micron
PVDF: more than 25 micron
More than 2h
No peeling or cracking(50 kg/cm,ASTMD-2794:1993)
More than 100
FAQ Aluminium PVDF Powered Coated in Coil Form
a.What is monthly capacity
---CNBM is one stated own company and our monthly capacity is about 2000tons.
b. Now which countries do you export your goods?
---Now we export to South East Asia,Africa, North America,South America ect.
- Q:Aluminum vs. steel shoes for H/J?
- Like others have pointed out aluminum are lighter but more expensive and must be replaced more often, but they are also much lighter. When I am seriously competing I put aluminum shoes on my horses just for the summer show season to take advantage of the lighter weight, then back to steel for the rest of the year (and with steel being as durable as it is I can keep the same pair stored away to be put back on in the fall.) It's your call, its not a HUGE difference but it might help him pick his feet up better.
- Q:Why does Aluminum rust is electron orbitals?
- 'Rusting' commonly refers to the corrosion (oxidation) of iron so when talking about other metals, it is better to use the term 'corrosion' or 'oxidation'. Aluminum can corrode and the fact that it has a general oxidation number of +3 doesn't really matter. Many elements which have a charge that is different from +2 can oxidize. Alkali metals for instance (which have a charge of +1) can oxidize. Lithium can form lithium oxide (Li2O), sodium can form sodium oxide (Na2O) and so on. However, aluminum is known to be quite resistant to corrosion (oxidation) because it spontaneously forms a thin (solid) oxide layer at it's surface protecting it from further oxidation whereas iron, for an example, will easily lose that thin layer (it ''peels off easily'') exposing more iron to corrosion. So since Al has a +3 charge and O has a -2 charge, you'll need 2 atoms of Al and 3 atoms of O to make an electrically neutral compound. 2 atoms of Al = +6 charge 3 atoms of O = -6 charge Hence Al2O3 which is aluminum oxide. I hope it helps.
- Q:What's the difference between laser cutting aluminum plate and stainless steel plate?
- Aluminum plate reflectivity high, viscous strong, general 3mm above will hang slag, but very easy to peel off, stainless steel cutting ability and thickness and equipment power relationship more.
- Q:How can you identify aluminum?
- To start with, are you refering to aluminum as metal, an aluminum compound, or a solution with aluminum present as ions? If it is metaallic aluminum, it won't stick to a magnet, and it will react with HCl, however this isn't sufficient to definately say it is aluminum, it would be better to get a density, melting point, etc.
- Q:Toxic Effects of Aluminum in Antacid?
- Aluminum okorder.com/
- Q:Can you paint aluminum foil using acrylic paints?
- i use aluminum foil to mix colors on and when it dries it DOES stick, however, it will scratch off really easy. just try experimenting. what do u need the foil for? maybe you can try the aluminum foil leaves? the flakes that you put ontop on the art instead of under it. that way you can glue it on and dont have to worry about it scratching off. foil looks beautiful on paintings :) how it turns out great
- Q:The price of an atom of aluminum?
- 3 square meters masses less than a gram - surely not But lets assume you have 0.995 grams. Dividing this number by 26.98(molar mass of AL) would give you moles of Al. Multiplying the number of moles X Avogadro's number (6.022 X 10^23) would give you atoms of Al. That number of atoms will cost you $2.96 . Dividing the cost by the total number of atoms will give you dollars per atom.
- Q:Aluminum wiring in house preventative measures - ceiling lights?
- Connections at ceiling lights have far less potential for a problem, but a potential none the less. So, while you are at it, go ahead and check them. The antioxidant compound and al/cu listed wire nuts (marriets) are the correct and proper materials to use. I applaud you for having done your homework. After tightening each connector be sure to pull on each and every wire to ensure they are good and tight. When combining solid and stranded wire, slide the stranded past the solid about an 1/8 before capping. We in the trade use 9 lineman's pliers to twist all wires before capping them. An inexpensive pair (of Lineman's) can be had for under $20. A good pair of wire strippers (with built in screw cutters) can be had for about $15. I mention the screw cutter because there is a good chance that somewhere along the line you will find a location where the stock 7/8-1 screw bottoms out against something before it gets tight. If you force it it will strip out. Not to mention it might dig into the insulation on a wire resulting in a short. Screws in devices (receptacles, switches, dimmers etc.) are 6-32 and light fixtures are typically 8-32. I would also get a non-contact tester. A.k.a. inductive tester. Very handy at times. When you are sure the power is off to a box it might not be. On an occasion another hot will be present. The beep testers will quickly alert you to the presence of another live circuit. A multi-tester will allow you to identify wires should you fail to mark them before working on them. If you mark the location of each wire to a 3 or 4-way switch before replacing it you will save yourself a lot of time. Same with wires to any GFI receptacles. Swapping wires location to location may not be correct. Some have the Line terminals on one side, while most have them on the top. But I get the impression you have a bit of experience or a friend who does helping you with this.
- Q:Can you temper aluminum or tin?
- No. In fact, aluminum (and I believe tin) work harden when hammered - as do brass and copper and you heat to anneal and then you can cool fast or slow, still soft. Tin has a very low melting point and hitting it with a torch, especially if thin, will probably put a hole in it. The chances of you actually having tin sheet metal are very low - tin cans are zinc plated steel or some other coating. Steel does harden when quench, but heating tin or zinc coated metal is likely to damage the coating and perhaps give off noxious fumes - especially zinc.
- Q:Is there a way to join copper and aluminium?
- I don't think you can make them into a compound, but by heating them to a certain temperature, I believe you can turn them into an alloy, or solution of metals.
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