Stainless Steel Chicken Wire Mesh

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while changing a lighting fixture i accidently pulled out the white wire while trying to strip it of the three caps in the electrical box im not sure which one it goes intheres a cap with two black wires and one white running too it another cap with three white wire running two it and a cap with a black wire running too it and the other black wire goes too the fixture which one of these caps do the white wire that connects too the fixture belong in?
Your fixture is wired as a switch loop. Power comes in at the ceiling box and continues onto other parts of the circuit from there as well. One of the pairs of wires is for the switch. The cable containing the black wire that went to the fixture also contains the white wire that is HOT and is connected to the remaining black wires. All the remaining white wires are neutral and need to be connected together with a wirenut. But before connecting them, also include a white 14-gauge pigtail with the connection. Use a beige or red wirenut. Yellow will be too small. After you've made the wiring connections, simply connect that white pigtail to the white wire of the fixture, and the black wire to the black.
at least 3 examples for wire and wireless......
Wire simplex: Serial data from GPS to PC or autopilot using 2 wires. Wire, half duplex: Theatrical intercom, with push to talk buttons for each spotlight operator. Wire, full duplex: telephone. Wireless, simplex: infrared remote control for TV. Wireless, half duplex: walkie-talkie, family radio service, cb radio. Wireless, full duplex cellphone, cordless phone.
im confused which wires are what, theres two wires...no colors?
There is a difference between the wires. One of the wires should have a ridge along its entire length. This is the neutral (white) wire. The neutral connects to the shells of the sockets and the hot wires to the center. once you peel the two wire apart you will see that one has little ridges that should be the neutral. the other way is to use a ohm or continuity meter.The center part of a light socket is the hot. neutral goes to white the other to black. good luck and i hope that this is a help to you
I need to wire a single 120v outlet from the 240v volt wire I use on my compressor. Im installing a 120v electric automatic drain valve on my large shop air compressor. The compressor is wired up with SJ00W 10-AWG, 4-wire power cable (red,green,black white wires). and is rated at 240v @ 15-amp(compressor not wire). The drain valve uses a normal house hold current wiring config. (black,white and open copper)The 240v power supply is the only supply I have near by, (two of them actually) Or I would just wire the automatic valve off an outlet and call it a day. So How do I wire a 120v 3-wire set up from the 240v 4-wire supply? Thanks
I swear these people on here are crazy sometimes. People he was never asking how to wire e recepticale. He is asking how to take a four wire 240vac connection to a 3 wire 120vac connection. He is wiring it to a auto drain valve that has a termination box on the side of it or a pecker head as we used to call it. Here is how to do it. Go to your breaker panel determine wick breaker is feeding the cable/wire your wanting to use. Once you have done this remove the breaker panel cover. Then remove the wires from the breaker. These should be the red and black wires. Now remove the two pole breaker and replace it with two single pole breakers rated at 20 amps. Using black electrical tape, tape the end of the red wire up and secure it inside the breaker panel so that it is out of the way. Now land the black wire to one of the breakers you just installed. The second breaker will not have anything wired to it, it is a spare to be used later but must be installed to cover the hole left by the two pole breaker. Label you panel to indicate the auto drain valve and the spare breaker you have just installed. Now at the auto drain valve the black will be the hot/L1 white is neutral/L2 and the green is ground. The red can be taped up and secured out of the way or cut back and taped up if you don't think you will need it in the future.
Replaced the old fan in my bathroom (about 10 years old) with a new fan. Trouble is this. The fan and light each work on a seperate bathroom switch. I have two spots to install the wire on the new bathroom fan/light. One for the fan and one for the ligth. However, the wiring has one white, one black, one red and the ground. Anyone know what the red is? Can I just cap it off? According the bathroom fan wiring it says something about connecting red to blue. I am slighty confused. I think it was originally only wired between the white and black. I am not sure if I have to get some extra wire and connect the black and red to the light and the white to the fan? Extra wire is confusing.
the black is one switch leg and the red is the other switch leg connect black to fan and red to light and ground the green or bare wire it will work just fine and connect white to white neutral
I am planning to wire my single sub 400rms svc to my amplifier 400rms x 1 @4 ohms. My car model is 94 mitsubishi lancer. how many AWG ( gauge) should I use? Like for Power, ground, speaker wire. I just want to have the full potential of my sub and ampli.For my 2nd question: if I decided to put a 2nd sub wired it on the same amp making it 800rms x1 @ 2 ohms. (my amplifier is a class d mono 1600 watt peak by the way) should I need to use a capacitor?Thank you
The power wire and ground wire should be the same guage. Here is a simple calculator to help you out. Good luck!
The wire from the cicuit breaker
Dryer is 220V and usually 30 amperes. Go with 10 gauge or larger (smaller number).
I know that there are wired routers, and wireless routers. Do wired routers do the same thing as wireless routers, without wireless capabilities?
You are correct. Generally these days your typical router will have one input port (to the Internet) and four output ports, one or more of which can be connected to other computers -- while also having wireless capability. Wiring directly to the router is useful for desktops, servers, and other hardware that may not have wireless capability, while also eliminating any interference that could be associated with wireless routing, such as radio interference or downtime.