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FAQ

First I‘ve had the bike for two years and don‘t know when the brake fluid has been changed (so easily two plus years)Here are the symptoms,At night in 55deg temperature, front brakes operate fine.During the day at 80deg temperature, front brakes clamp up rotors, bike will move, so its not completely seized. Popped the master cylinder reservoir and noticed water on the other side of diaphragm. Even when brakes drag, the front brake handle still operates properly.My theory. the brake fluid is so old and combined with water that during the day, the water steams up creating air pressure and clamping down on the brakes.Should I just get the brake fluid flushed or should the master cylinder be rebuilt? Your thoughts? Thanks.

ok buddy the brake fluid will def need a change every yr is preferable check the brake hoses for porousness then take the calliper off the disc check the dustseals are not broken the water could have affected the metal on the cylinder if it has a white dust will be evident electrolitic action between the brake piston and the cylinder wall if it is so take them both to a dealer and get them cleaned and overhauled to be honest that sounds to me what has happened the electrolyte is stopping the piston returning fully into the cylinder of the unit,brakes are damn important when ya need them, ya do, and they have to work or ya gonna be a satistic if ya not so handy on the tools just change the fluid of that fails take the whole system off the bike and to a honda dealer let him sort it he knows what he is about if ya feel capable however get a haynes manual and do it yourself it will be much cheaper up to you which hope that has helped. ride free

Brake.Abs light is on too. Serious help needed

year/make/model/engine trans

for a 1966 Dodge dart GT manual. And how much would parts cost.

It okorder it will help explain.

how can we detect the failure of brakes using sensors when the automobile is running? what are the sensors used? how can we use the micro controller and embedded system program to detect the failure of brakes and make an alarm simultaneously alternative brakes are applied automatically atonce and the vehicle should be stopped atonce?

Anti lock brakes work in a similar fashion. Rotor speed is monitored while th ebrake pedal is depressed. If the rotor slows too much or stops that signals the antilocks system to take effect. Now consider what your asking When you depress the brake and release the accelerator the system should expect to see a decrease in rotor speed. If it doesn't see a fast enough drop in rotor speed across a certain amount of time then it can assume a brake failure. Brake systems currently monitor hydraulic pressure as a means of detecting brake failure by the failure of the hydraulic system .

Just had front rotors replaced break pedal still feels spongy it stops and has pressure to it but my pedal is going down a little too far( when car comes to a complete stop my free foot just barely fits underneath pedal, and pedal comes back up with no problem) did a master cylinder test to see if when brakes are pressed if there was any bubbles in reservoir and there wasn‘t any, I‘m not losing any fluid so what else can it be ? I have a 97 lumina with ABSbrake lines are new as well as a caliper(driver side)

it sounds like you have air in the braking SYSTEM, also make sure no water has got on to the system. if you pump the pedal, does the foot brake go hard, if so it is air the system, I would have the fluid flushed through with new brake fluid. the other way you can tell if it is air, hold Your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal slowly finds it way going down to the floor, its air in the SYSTEM.

when the car thinks its loaded down the brakes work harder.but when you lower the car it thinks its loaded and brakes work too hard and can cause lock ups. does anyone know if preludes have height sensitive control valves on the braking system?

the prelude has 4 wheel disc and ABS on some vehicles. The height valve you are asking about is commonly used on trucks such as the Nissan truck with rear drum brakes to balance the braking when the truck bed is loaded down. Honda does not use that type of valve on any of its vehicles. if you have a problem with lock up check for air in the system first. Then if its locking up after bleeding the air out of the system see if you can identify which wheel is locking up. I would guess you don't have ABS if you're locking a wheel up. If you identify what wheel is locking then you can look at the calipers, pads and hydraulics for that wheel to find the problem. hope that helps

Im building a 1970 plymouth Duster and trying to find a modern Chrysler product that will interchange with a 1970 Plymouth duster for front disc brake system

I've never heard of welding a caliper in place in anything, wouldn't work right and brakes would be garbage. A proper conversion will include brackets to mount your calipers to the vehicle correctly so they can slide and move like they're supposed to. The best thing to do is to contact several different performance parts companies (such as Summitt, PAW, etc) or check out their websites and see who has the best deal on a conversion kit. A good conversion kit will include all necessary items, including a new master cylinder and proportioning valve along with the calipers, pads, and mounting brackets.

I have a bmx mongoose bike and the handbrakes broke. The brake pads are basically glued to the tire on the back. I tried to fix it but couldn't get anything to work so I took the back brake pads off. I was wondering besides paying for a new brake system could I move the back pedal brake part from a new wheel I just got to my other back wheel on my bike? The back pedal wheel does not fit on my bike so is there a simple way with tools that I can switch it? Thanks.

You removed your rear brake because it was out of adjustment? Don't get a new wheel, put the brake back on and adjust it so it works properly!