• Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique System 1
  • Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique System 2
  • Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique System 3
  • Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique System 4
  • Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique System 5
Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique

Yongsen Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique

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Loading Port:
Nanjing
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m²
Supply Capability:
1000 m²/month

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1、Material properties

The essence of ebony hard, a brown black, dark red, golden color, brown. The smooth, polished wood delicate, it can reach the mirror bright, some have similar rosewood ebony essence. It will never fade, not decadent, not living, is the production of art, antique furniture ideal material.

The ebony is the non renewable resources, the development of less and less, some other natural ebony art highly collectible value.

2、Product Characteristics

Sound insulation

Solid wood flooring material is hard, careful of the wood fiber structure, low thermal conductivity, barrier sound and heat effect, better than cement, ceramic tiles and steel. The wood floor has sound absorption, sound insulation, reduce sound pressure, shorten reverberation time, reduce the effect of noise pollution nuisance.

Regulating humidity

Is solid wood flooring wood characteristics, climate is dry, release of moisture content in wood; humid climate, the wood will be to absorb the moisture in the air. Wood floors can automatically adjust the indoor temperature and humidity by absorbing and releasing moisture.

Cool in summer and warm in winter

Winter, solid wood floor surface temperature to tile surface temperature than high 8 DEG to 10 DEG C, on the wooden floor walk no cold sensation. In summer, the solid wood floor of the room temperature to than tiled room temperature low 2 degrees to 3 degrees.

Green harmless

Solid wood flooring wood from forests, use no volatile abrasion resistant paint coating, from the wood of the paint were green and harmless, unlike tile radiation, unlike the strengthening floors have formaldehyde is natural green and harmless ground material.

3、Parameter

Material: ashtree

Applicable scope: bedroom

Pattern: Wood

Special purpose: anti-corrosion

Plate finish: Class A

Surface shape: paint

Residual depression: 1

Formaldehyde release rate: E1

Resist pressure: 1

Wear layer thickness: 3mm

Wear resistance: premium

Fading (stage): 1

Floor thickness 18mm

Color: white

Specifications: 910*125*18

4、Reference pictures


Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique

Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique

Yongsen  Solid Wood Floor With Relief Antique




 

 

 

Q:We are trying to decide between two products based on their different application. 1. Home Legend Maple Durham click-lock to be installed floating (with moisture barrier and padding)2. Shaw Brass Maple to be glued (using new one step non-toxic glue) Our slab is not perfect. We are doing a large 700 sq ft room including foyer, kitchen, hallway, and large living area. I do not like the hollow sound laminate makes and want to avoid this. Should we glue the floor or install floating? We will be installing ourselves (husband works in masonry).
Last summer I installed about 1200 ft2 of floating wood floor in 5 different places in the house. After a year everything is looking good and there are no issues with floor. I was careful to make sure the floor had room for expansion and there are no humps or shrinkage openings. Neighbor across the street has a few humps in his glued down version. When you walk across the floor, there is a slightly hollow sound but I have had this in nail down floors. Where the floor slab had some dips the sound is a little more hollow. One of the reasons that I decided to go with the floater is that I could work at my own pace and not have to brace the floor so that it did not expand overnight with the glued version. I did a nail down 1300 ft2 in a previous home and it was solid with 15 pound tar paper under it. That floor had the hardwood click to it. It was much harder to install than this floater. In looking at the fact that the flooring is not all exactly straight and perfect and that I could not do 700 ft2 in a day and did not want to brace, I would probably go with the floater again. You still need a vapor barrier under the glued floor to prevent moisture absorption through the slab.
Q:The meritage bistro flooriand the Armstrong rural flooring are the ones I am looking at. They are both hand scraped
If it were just a bedroom, it wouldn t matter at all. But since its going it a higher traffic area, the solid , full hardwood is much better in the long run because it can be redone several times. If your going to put it in yourself and the traffic in the house is high, no kids and animals, you can do either. Since engineered is easier to install for a DIY er and will hold up fine under lighter foot traffic. Get a quality wood in whichever you pick. Cheapest isn t the way to go in an investment for flooring Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:I'm re-doing my bathroom and am wondering if I should lay the engineered wood flooring down under the new shower/bathtub, or should I install that first and lay the flooring around it?
Tubs and shower units, always go in first. Builder for 40 years.
Q:Remodeling -- getting wood floors --- should I do solid or engineered wood flooring?
One thing to remember is if you use the sand and finish type wood flooring, you will have to live with the dust and inconvenience of the loss of using the room for several days. I would still recommend the sand and finish flooring if you can deal with the hassle of the dust etc. Now, one thing that others haven't mentioned is the fact that most engineered flooring comes with a 20-25 year warranty on the finish. Check and see, because if you don't want to have to bother re-doing your flooring for a long time, you might want to invest in the engineered flooring but to me, it looks fake. Not really like laminate but I just don't like the pre-finished OR the engineered floors, but you have to make that call depending on your financial situation as well as the inconvenience you're willing to experience. Also be sure when you pick out your flooring, if you DO use the engineered or pre-finished, look at the space between the boards......some have a deeper groove which, to me, would catch dirt. In a sand and finish floor, of course there is no groove, so that is also a plus. (another thing to remember is, if you really want something pretty that will be unusual, do something in the exotic woods instead of the oak that everyone does. While oak is nice, it's so blase. Almost everyone has oak and while it's less expensive, if you shop around, you might be able to get a good deal on an exotic hardwood, such as Brazilian Cherry, which is what I have. It is the first thing people notice when they walk in!!!) So, think about that as well and have fun doing this. Good luck to you!!!!!!!
Q:How long is the service life of solid wood flooring?
In the wood flooring industry, the thickness of the wood floor is often very critical, it can roughly determine the service life of wood flooring. The thicker the wooden floor, the longer the service life of the wooden floor.
Q:if laying a new wooden floor on top of existing old floor boards, which is best, engineered wood or solid wood.
It all depends upon the wear layer on the engineered board. All of the wood above the tongue in T&G (tongue and grooved) flooring is the wear layer. In some engineered boards this wear layer is made up of the ply and a thin layer of the decorative wood. Engineered flooring is a better product if the wear layer is all decorative wood and is the same thickness as the solid board. Engineered flooring is much more stable in terms of expansion and contraction when compared to a solid board. Engineered flooring is comparable in price to a solid board which results in people believing that solid is much better value as there is more of the decorative wood. No way, engineered wins, as once a flooring is sanded down to the tongue or groove (after many, many years) the floor is scrap so the decorative wood from the tongue down in a solid board is there to carry the wear layer. I would only choose a single strip (some engineered boards are multi strip where more than one plank of the flooring are together on a single board) engineered where the wear layer is as thick as the comparable solid. This type of flooring is a much better product than the equivalent solid. When such a floor is fitted looks just like the solid equivalent but with much less problems regarding humidity and water. Don't let this put you off a solid board though, installed correctly and cared for it will last for just the same amount of time as engineered flooring. When laying the floor it makes no difference!
Q:What is the difference between solid wood flooring and floor tiles
Floor of the 5 defects: affected by the weather and humidity, the need for regular maintenance; after the water is easy to deformation from Alice; formaldehyde release; relatively short service life.The wooden floor does have beautiful natural, comfortable, good insulation strength, good things often need to do more work, the wood floor is easy to deformation Qiqiao, how many there will be formaldehyde emission, is a hazard to health. It is not easy to take care of, but also have to wax maintenance.
Q:Can you clean engineered hardwood flooring with steam vacuum?
It is best to not use steam mops. I recommend the Bona hardwood floor mop.
Q:I live in a condo apartment on the 2nd floor. I want to soundproof the floor, but I don't want carpeting. Therefore, I glued a cork underlayment to a wood sub floor. Now, I want to glue the engineered wood floor to the cork underlayment. Is this reccomended?
If your cork is down well and the glue you use will bond to the cork, your ok. Check out what type of glue your using. Most urethane based glues will work. GL
Q:We have tried a floor scraper - did not do the job. We have tried an air chisel - did not do the job. The only sure way so far is a flat end crowbar and a sledge hammer and a lot of sweat.
the floor scrappers are too wide and the air chisel - yeah doesn't work well either. unfortunately, after my home flooded we had to do the same thing! here is what we used.... wonder bar and a hammer and two screwdrivers - one large and one smaller.... get to the edge pound in little screwdriver near the seam, larger one toward the other side/middle. rock upward once in and then get the wonderbar in.... then pound away at that. it takes forever.... 3 guys 2 full days AND that doesn't inclued the hallway and 3x18 area i'd already done.... it was a royal PITA!! good luck!

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