WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump System 1

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application:
Buildings, hospitals, residence, municipal works, traffic construction, factories, cultivation, pharmacy, beverage, seawater, saltwater, long fiber sewage, etc.

Service Conditions:
1,Max. immersion depth:5m.
2,Max. liquid temperature: +60°C.
3,PH: 304(4-10), 316(2-13).

Product Introduction:
1. WQ(D)-S stainless steel casting sewage submersible pumps use impeller structure of single or double channel, which improves sewage discharge capacity. It can discharge fibers which are five times larger than the pump caliber and solid particles which are as large as 50% of the outlet caliber.
2. It uses VITON double mechanical seal, radial "O" ring, which perfects seal function of the pump.
3. With precision casting casing, it is corrosion-resistant, energy-saving, light, beautiful, easy to maintain, free from the pump room and able to serve as soon as put into water. Therefore, it can reduce the construction cost.
4. Please install overheating and over-current protector to avoid the motor overloading.
5. For high-temperature liquid, corrosion resistant cable, TEFLON mechanical seal can be choosed.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q(m3/h)	RATED H(m)	RATED POWER (kW)	VOLTAGE (V)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)	G.W. (kg)	PACKAGE DIMENSION (cm3)
WQD10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	220	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQD15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.1	220	50	30.5	60×26×23
WQD15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	220	50	31.7	60×26×24
WQ10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	380	50	28.4	60×26×23
WQ15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.5	380	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQ15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	380	50	31.1	60×26×24
WQ15-20-2.2ST	15	20	2.2	380	50	41.4	66×29×32
WQ25-15-2.2ST	25	15	2.2	380	65	41.4	63×30×24
WQ40-9-2.2ST	40	9	2.2	380	80	43.8	63×29×24.5
WQ50-7-2.2ST	50	7	2.2	380	100	49.2	64.5×33×29.5
WQ15-25-3ST	15	25	3	380	50	46	70×30×25.5
WQ25-20-3ST	25	20	3	380	65	47.2	66×28×32
WQ40-15-3ST	40	15	3	380	80	48.6	70×30×25.5
WQ50-10-3ST	50	10	3	380	100	53.9	70×32×27
WQ15-32-4ST	15	32	4	380	50	50.6	70×30×25
WQ25-25-4ST	25	25	4	380	65	51.5	70×32×28
WQ40-18-4ST	40	18	4	380	80	51.8	70×30×25
WQ50-15-4ST	50	15	4	380	100	57.5	70×28×34
WQ20-32-5.5ST	20	32	5.5	380	50	74.1	82×39×33
WQ30-25-5.5ST	30	25	5.5	380	65	76.8	82×39×33
WQ50-18-5.5ST	50	18	5.5	380	80	79.1	82×39×33
WQ80-10-5.5ST	80	10	5.5	380	100	81.8	82×39×33
WQ100-7-5.5ST	100	7	5.5	380	150	93	82×39×33
WQ20-40-7.5ST	20	40	7.5	380	50	81.4	82×40×34
WQ30-32-7.5ST	30	32	7.5	380	65	83.1	82×40×34
WQ45-22-7.5ST	45	22	7.5	380	80	85.3	82×40×34
WQ80-15-7.5ST	80	15	7.5	380	100	87.2	82×40×34
WQ100-10-7.5ST	100	10	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34
WQ140-7-7.5ST	140	7	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34

Q:The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out: From my experience the average life expectancy is 7 to 10 yrs depends on usage. Seems like they last longer when used more often. Hope this answers your Q' BIG CHEO

Q:I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.: Those pumps are usually self priming.. either you have a PLUGGED LINE or the water pump froze in the cold and it needs to be replaced... but they are cheap.

Q:1.where is it located and what would I have to remove 1st to get to it. And would I need a torque wrench if so what # would it have to be at when re-installing water pump: 1990 Toyota Celica

Q:We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?: With the engine running at idle take a look at your coolant resevoir and follow the lines. If it is a hose leak you should be able to see it no problem. When is the last time the radiator was flushed? You could have a blockage in there somewhere too. Depending on how handy you are will determine how difficult the water pump is to replace if that is the problem. Some help can be found online by looking for a Mazda forum. Good luck

Q:I cant get water to flow though the motor It seems like the pump isnt working any advise!: You should never ever start your engine without water to cool the impeller or it will burn the impeller vanes in the first place. As described, you have to split the lower from the upper case, there you find the pump, replace the impeller in side of it, get a manual first for the rebuild. And hope that the vanes are still there or you gonna have to find the pieces that came loose and entered the engines cooling circuit and clogged it up. Good luck!

Q:belt removal mercury cruiser water pump?: The pump bracket pivots that allows the belt to be removed. I've seen a few where the alternator belt is over the top of the water pump belt, so you have to remove it first. Actually a pretty easy job.

Q:2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!: to get the water pump out you need to remove the water pump pulley first it has four 10 mm bolts (I have seem them with 8 mm bolt with a large shoulder on them too ) you can break the bolts loose one of 2 ways 1) put a long screwdriver between the two of the bolt to hold the pulley in place while u break one loose then spin the pulley around rinse and repeat once there all loose u can turn them out by hand and pull off the pulley some time u have to give the pully a little tap to come off you shouldn't need to take off the motor mount unless u plan on chaging the serpintine belt ? be sure once you get the pump off you clean the block side of the surface really good with a scraper make sure u get all the old gasket off the block side so it will seal right when u install the new pump I also recommend a tube of ultra black rtv sealant and only black I have used blue silicone before on many occasion and it has failed me I only use black rtv plus it makes it a lot easier if you have to replace the pump in the future as it come off a little easyier hope this helps a little good luck may the car gods be with you also I would recommend doing a back flush with warm or hot water and using the old school green antifreeze either full or 50/50 mix Dexcool orange has a very well know issue of eating gaskets and putting engine into a vapor lock very costly to fix

Q:Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?: that's a vague description of the pump. theres several types of pumps too. you need to either shield the pump, or move it to a different location, so its nots moist and damp all the time. drop a sand point down to the well, seal the well from the pump , or buy a different type. call a well service and ask them your options. good luck man! gee, that must get expensive.

Q:I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????: Change water pump and thermostat immediately

Q:I want to put a water pump on a horse trough with the pump on the outside of the fence. There is a hose attachement at the bottom of the trough for the intake. I want to have the outake hook back to fall into the top of the water, reducing algae and eliminating mosquito larvae. I have never used a pump before. Need advice on type, size, etc. Thanks!: A 12 volt water feature pump from a garden center would do the job. Four litres a minute with a shower head on the end going into the trough should give the aeration you need. The head off a plastic watering can would also do.

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