• Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China System 1
  • Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China System 2
  • Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China System 3
  • Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China System 4
Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China

Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal Good Quality Made In China

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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1.Specifications

1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow

2.Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

export wooden cases

Delivery Detail:

within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment

BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump

3.FEATURES

BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water

4. OPERATING CONDITION

a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa

5. MATERIAL 

a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable

Rated flow

10(m3/h)

Rated head

26m

Rated power

1.5Kw

Voltage

220V

Rated Current

7.2A

Rated speed

2860r/min

Discharge diameter

50mm

6.Conditions of use

Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly: 
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5 
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm 
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times 
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.

Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China

Water Pump Cheap Centrifugal  Good Quality Made In China


Q:I think the water pump on my 40 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke is not working, the hole witch usually pours out all the water that was used to cool the engine does not pour any water at all. Is this a problem with the water pump? If not what?
Check the water intake is not blocked. Then the water impellor. Then lastly check the water tell tail outlet hole is not blocked/obstructed.
Q:The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks
Welcome to the world of boating.We used to have to cut out a hole on the seats to change oil filters on the first service. I feel your pain! Your recirculating pump and your raw water pump are two separate systems. If your upper hoses are running dry I would check the raw water pump first. The rocker noise would concern me more. To separate the noise, run the engine on a garden hose attached to the incoming line inside the boat from the raw water pump when the lower unit is removed for the raw water pump job. That will separate the possible sources for the noise. If the noise followed the lower, check u-joints, gimbal bearing, gear housing. If it is still there, check the oil for water, and the recirculating pump, and valve lifters.(who knows, it might actually be a lifter.)
Q:How large is the starting current for a 1.5 kW submersible pump?
If single-phase, the no-load current is about 3.7A, the rated current is about 10A.
Q:My toyota 99 camry stalled and would not start. engine turned over and all lights worked. had the oil changed 3 weeks ago and they told me their was a noise and it might be the water pump. my questions are does this sound like the water pump? Do they usually change the timing belt and is this necessary? is this something that we can do at home? thank-you for any info out their!
If your water pump is the problem, the stalling and not starting would've been caused by your engine overheating. Hopefully that's not the case. Also, waterpumps tend to make a noise when they go bad, but the most common symptom is the loss of coolant in your radiator. The waterpump will began to drip when it goes bad. If you are getting the waterpump done, I would bite the bullet and spend the loot on a full timing belt replacement. My reasons are this: In order to get to the waterpump, all of the belts (including the timing belt) will need to be removed. This is one case where a mechanics advice on additional work works in your favor. If you replace the timing belt while replacing the waterpump, you will be saving hundreds of dollars in labor in the long run. The timing belt change isn't necessary, and you don't have to worry about damaging your engine if it breaks. your Camry has a noninterference engine so you'll just need to replace the belt when it breaks and you're good to go. However, replacing it while you have the waterpump done will save you money as I mentioned before.
Q:Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.
Q:Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :)
E92 has should be an electric water pump if it's a 6 cylinder. The oil level will read inactive until the engine is up to operating temp. As for the grinding noise- they need to remove the belt and start the car. If the noise is gone- spin the idler pulley and listen for bearing noise. I've had a couple of alternators go bad on these cars so I can't fully fault the shop- but they SHOULD have verified the source of the noise as well as the repair. Other potential issues would be the P/S pump or the A/C compressor. (only items on the belt).
Q:How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
The radiator surely holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture via the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing via the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to flow the mixture to verify that the nice and comfortable water to relax subsequently, the engine is then cooled.
Q:what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate?
This Site Might Help You. RE: what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate? what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate?
Q:2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
To be sure that its the water pump or not, try this simple practical procedure; 1. remove the coolant reservoir cover (the pressure tank) 2. make sure the water level in it is up to the recommended maximum level 3. start the engine, and see if water is returning to the water reservoir via the return hose/pipe, and if the water is moving down the inlet hose to the engine block 4. if water return to the resevoir via the return hose and water is moving down to the engine, the the water pump is fine. 5; check if your thermostat is not faulty, this can be responsible for abnormal measurement of the water temperature. 6. you used the word FULL, I hope u did not filled the resevoir to the top with water, above the maximum level? in that case you can get high temperature on your gauge. Goodluck. I am a mechanic
Q:My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
If the water pump impeller fail your heater will not work properly because the coolant is not circulating .If coolant is low or restricted heater core will result more or less the same condition.However overheating can be cause by timing too.Blown head gasket can be verify with compression test.Water pump can leak while you are driving and may leave little to hard to detect trace of leak.It can pissing for a few seconds and stop for a while. Do not over look the pressure cap.It can cause overheating symptoms boiling over the recovery tank.Plug rad will definitely cause that.The cooling fan -if electric can be faulty. Some has a module or relay activate by a temperature sensor.Some has a temp.sensor sending signal to the COMPUTER and the computer turns the e-fan on or off.If any of those components is faulty.you can have overheating problems.check it out

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