W3F46P-11.80 3-Conductor F46 (Fluoroplastics) insulated steel wire

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 2000km m/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:Jiangsu, China (Mainland)
Model Number:3-Conductor
Type:Insulated
Application:oilfield, well logging, oil exploration
Conductor Material:Copper
Conductor Type:Stranded
Insulation Material:F46

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Iron pan, wooden tray or according to customer's requirement.
Delivery Detail:	30 days after payment.

Specifications

logging cable in oilfields
a. Quick delivery
b. Competitive price with high quality
c. Expert in cable and wire

3-conductor F46 (Fluoroplastics) insulated double-deck galvanized steel wire armored heat resistance well logging cable in oilfields

1. Product Standard

The product is manufactured according to the standard of SY/T6600-2004

2. Application

The product is applicable to all types of oil and gas well logging, perforation, coring and paraffin oil wells, viscosity, pour point and so on. It’s such kind of oil field exploration armored steel cable which could bear all the above mentioned mechanical load.

3. Operating Characteristics

a. The lowest temperature that cable could work should not be lower than-30°C.

b. Max temperature is 232°C for short period (2h maximum duration each time).

c. Minimum bending radius is 30 times of cable diameter.

CONSTRUCTION DESCRIPTION:

Copper Construction:	7×0.0169’’	7×0.43 mm
Plastic Type:	F46
Insulation Thickness:	0.130’’	3.31 mm
Number and Size of Wires:
Inner Armor:	24×0.0389”	24×0.99 mm
Outer Armor:	24×0.0496”	24×1.26 mm
Average Wire Breaking Strength:
Inner Armor:	323 lbs	1438 N
Outer Armor:	523 lbs	2330 N

CABLE CHARACTERISTICS:

PHYSICAL:

Cable Diameter:	0.464’’±0.0039’’	11.80 mm ±0.10 mm
Cable Weight In Air:	341 lbs/Kft	508 Kg/Km
Temperature Rating :	450 °F	232 °C

MECHANICAL:

Cable Breaking Strength:	18000 lbs	80 KN
Minimum Sheave Diameter:	20’’	504 mm
Cable Stretch Coefficient:	0.714 ft/Kft/Klbs	0.80 m/Km/5KN

ELECTRICAL:

Voltage Rating:	1500 VDC	1500 VDC
Insulation Resistance:	50000 MΩ·Kft	15000 MΩ·Km
DC Resistance @ 20°C	5.5 Ω/Kft	18 Ω/Km
Cap Typical @ 1 KHz	43 Pf/ft	140 Pf/m

l Cables are armored with special galvanized improved plow steel wires or special alloy wires.

l All armor wires are preformed during the manufacturing process.

l The temperature rating assumes a normal gradient for both temperature and weight.

l All values shown are normal or typical values.

l During the manufacturing process a strict quality control program is enforced. Each cable is given a complete electrical and mechanical test to confirm that it meets or exceeds catalog specification.

Q:My dad is trying to wire a electric cook top...it has three wires (black, red, and copper). His junction box has four wires (black, red, white and copper). He first wired the black to black, red to red and copper to copper, he capped the white wire in the junction box. The cook top did not work. Then he connected the white wire with the two copper wires, and the cook top now works. So the question is will this connection work or will it cause a problem? And if it causes a problem what can he do to resolve it?: Hi There, This what I would do. The black and red wires from the cooktop are fine and can be connected to the black and red wires in the junction box. Check the copper wire from the stove and see where it is connected. It is probably a neutral wire used to supply 120 volts for a clock, lights or other control function. If that is the case I would exchange it for a properly sized insulated white wire. This white wire can be connected to the white wire in the junction box. Then: Connect the copper wire to a metal part of the cooktop to use as a ground wire. This wire can then be connected to the copper wire in the junction box. This would be a typical modern 4-wire 240 volt setup. Hope this helps, Al

Q:having a difficult time finding a wire for my remoter starter: The white wire to the coil is the tach wire. If you have the 4.3L,there is a white wire with a black tracer from the ignition control module to the coil. If that doesn't help,on the PCM,in the red connector,terminal 10 is the tach wire from the PCM to the Instrument cluster,this wire is also white.

Q:I am trying to replace a GFCI outlet, there are 6 wires -3 White, 2 Black Ground. I have tried to wire it several times and indicator light comes on but it doesn't trip or work when something is plugged in. It's in a box with 2 light switches and I believe feeds down to another switch plug because they are currently not working. As well as my microwave which is on the same circuit. So long story short how do I wire this thing?: You need to find which set of wires is the feed 1st. Turn off breaker for that circuit disconnect wires . Then turn breaker back on . Which black wire is hot ? Remember which black wire has power. Then shut off breaker again . The black wire that is hot gets connected to your line voltage connection side ( Gold screw on outlet ) the white wire goes to the other line voltage side ( Silver screw ) . The other black and white wire gets connected to the load side of the GFI . If the screws are all the same color for some reason . Remember the longer slot is always the neutral or white wire . The smaller slot is the black or hot wire . Ground to the green screw .Turn breaker back on and test .

Q:Theres a Green Illumination wire from the factory setup, where do I connect that wire too on my aftermarket deck? Also theres a White/Blue wire that I dont know where it connects either?: The green illumination wire controlled the dimming on the factory stereo, but it will only apply if your tuner has the same feature. If it doesn't then just put a crimp cap on it and stow it out of the way. As for the white/blue wire, I'm not sure. If you pick up a wiring diagram, such as found in the Hanes manual, it will give you the breakdown. Not all the wiring in your car needs to be hooked up, just the ones that operate the tuner's functions and audio; if everything works and there's no left over wiring from your tuner's wiring bundle, then you don't need that white/blue wire. Crimp it off and tie it up to the bundle. This should be applicable to your year: Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray Radio Ground Wire: Brown Radio Illumination Wire: Green Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 4″ Front Speakers Location: Dash Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Purple Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Green Rear Speakers Size: 4″ Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White

Q:How can I investigate the resistance of wire and how it changes with the length of the wireCheers: get a multimeter. get long lengths of different gauge (diameter) copper lead wire. for each diameter, measure the resistance. cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, etc etc. plot the resistance vs length for each gauge separately. show that the resistance is linear in the wire length in each case. now use the different diameter data to measure the resisitivity of copper. resisitivity rho = R*A/L R = resistance L = length A = cross-sectional area cheers

Q:Just got a 540 wat sound system but the speaker wires are only 5 feet, so I want to add about another 10 or 15 feet.: The tape won't make a good sufficient - stable connection. A unfastened connection gets very heat. #4 can carry quite some amperage. acquire some copper - chop up bolt - kearney connectors, which would be put in with 2 wrenches, it could have a divider interior the middle so each cord would be clamped in my view, (might desire to be tight) and wrap a minimum of three wraps of a good grade of electric powered tape - a brilliant ironmongery shop can help you.

Q:Im currently running 8 gauge power wire from my battery to my amp which is a hifonics zxi8408 i have it bridged to 2 channels so its pushing 440 watts x2 to 2 alpine type Rs. The current speaker wire im running is 16 gauge.My question is...since im going to go down to 4 gauge power wire, should I lower the speaker wire and get 12 gauge speaker wire also? What will sound the best?: Actually YES, the speaker wire should always be twelve gauge especially if you want crystal-clear sound. And you SHOULD get 4 gauge power and ground wires as well. They sell great quality audio cables at Walmart.

Q:i am going to be installing a flood light outside, i am running the wire on the outside of the house. i have down some small electrical work light outlets and switches but not sure on running wire. i was looking at lowes at outdoor wire and there are different size gauges. just wondering what size or gauge is best to use for an outdoor flood light?: Important! You need to check the breaker size. If it is a 20Amp circuit you must use #12 or greater. If it is a 15Amp circuit #14 or greater. Wire capacity should ALWAYS be equal to or greater than the circuit breaker.

Q:My tail light work but when i hit the breaks everything go out. Any answers? Standard 4 wire: you might have a broken wire check the plug to see if the prongs aren't broken or damaged also check bulbs

Q:I'm wiring a dvc 4ohm sub with 1000rms and I'm trying to wire it at 2 ohms to a mono-d amplifier. Is there a recomendation on the guage of speaker wire I should use? And Another question. When I run a wire to both positive terminals and a seperate wire to both negative terminals does that give me 8ohms or how does that work?: speaker okorder /

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