Vertical multistage fire pump

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Vertical Multistage Fire Pump

1.Introduction:

CDL/CDLF high pressure water pump is special in high pressure, made of stainless steel 304 or 316, all parts touch with liquid are of stainless steel. The pump is vertical non-self priming multistage centrifugal pump, which drived by a standard electric motor.The motor output shaft directly connects with the pump shaft through a coupling. The pressure resistant cylingder and flow passagecomponets are fixed between pump head and inlet and outlet section with tie-bar bolts. The inlet and outlet are located at the pump bottom at the same plane. This kind of pump can be equipped with an intelligent protector to effectively prevent it from dry-running, out-of-phase and overload.

2.Applications:

· Urban water supply and pressure boosting

· Industrial circulating system and processing system

· Water supply for boiler, condensing system, high-rise building or fire fighting system.

· Water treatment and RO system

· Cooling water system

3.Electric motor:

· TEFC motor,

· 50HZ or 60HZ 220V or 380V

· Protection class: IP55, Insulation class: F

4. Operation conditions:

Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers

medium temperature: -15°c~+120°c

Capacity range: 1~180 m³^_/h

Head range: 6~305 m

50HZ Pump Performance Scope

Model	CDLF2	CDLF4	CDLF8	CDLF12	CDLF16	CDLF20	CDLF32	CDLF42	CDLF65	CDLF120	CDLF150
Rated flow[m3/h]	2	4	8	12	16	20	32	42	65	120	150
Flow range[m3/h]	1-3.5	1.5-8	5-12	7-16	8-22	10-28	16-40	25-55	30-80	60-150	80-180
Max.Pressure[bar]	23	22	21	22	22	23	26	30	22	16	16
Motor power[Kw]	0.37-3	0.37-4	0.75-7.5	1.5-11	2.2-15	1.1-18.5	1.5-30	3-45	4-45	11-75	11-75
Head range[m]	8-231	6-209	13-201	14-217	16-222	6-234	4-255	11-305	8-215	15-162.5	8.5-157
Temperature range[°C]	-15 -+120
Max.Efficiency[%]	46	59	64	63	66	69	76	78	80	74	73

Q:just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump: How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!

Q:I want to replace a water pump for my friend. I can't find any books on this car. I'm not sure how to replace this pump. Looking at new water pumps there lookes like 10 bolts, but on my chevy truck there was only 4. I don't know if all holes take a bolt or not, or if I need to take something out before I take the water pump out.Anyone ever changed a water pump on this car? or know what book or website I can look at which will give me an idea.: autozones web site has some good instructions on most popular cars

Q:Water pump: get a chevy better car FORD found on road dead . ha ha ha haha!

Q:I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex sedan with about 105k miles. Sometime before 110k I need to get the timing belt replaced. At about 95k my mechanic asked if I wanted to replace the timing belt and the water pump. According to the owners manual the timing belt must be replaced, but it simply says check the water pump.I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs, but I also know that both of these jobs are quite involved, but can be done together fairly easily. Is there anything I can do to check myself or do I just have to trust my mechanic when I take it in. Also, what is the cost difference between the timing belt job and adding in the water pump at the same time?: If you're going to have the timing belt changed you might as well change the water pump at the same time - it would take about the same amount of effort and cash in the future to just replace the water pump alone if it goes bad. On a Honda with over 100k miles, it's just a matter of time before the water pump goes - so I'd say that it's a good idea to change it now, even if it's not showing any signs of failure. You'd just end up paying for the work twice if you don't do it now - assuming that you're planning on keeping the car for a while. I'm not sure how much a water pump would cost for your car, but you could look it up on the web - additional labor costs to install it during the timing belt change would be minimal.

Q:i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion: You will have to remove the AC compressor, all of the drive belts, alternator bracket, power steering pump and bracket, motor mount, timing cover, and the timing belt. This job calls for 4.3 hours and I was able to do one in about 3. If you really want to attempt this yourself, let me know and I will give you detailed step by step instructions to do it, right down to the timing marks and what size each bolt is. If you have never done a water pump/timing belt on any car before, I strongly recommend you don't attempt this repair yourself. The 3.0 really isn't a bad one to do, if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge and ability.

Q:It is used in a water pumping station.: What Is A Submersible

Q:My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.: the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop

Q:55KW motor driven lift 70M, the displacement of 180 cubic meters per hour of water pump, the configuration should be no problem, but after the start of the current to 170A (rated 100A), off a small valve to the current export half to reach the rated current. Why current will close a small valve instead of small? Will close a small valve will not affect traffic flow can be? To the 180 party?: 170A has shown that the motor is overloaded; the head 70M; the displacement of 180 cubic meters; the approximate power is 42Kw (efficiency is higher). At this point, the current of the corresponding motor should be approximately 86A;The power of water pump is related to the quantity of water transported. The water pump is a passive energy conversion device, and it has no regulating ability. It depends entirely on the intersection of its pipeline characteristics and its own characteristics,No, your situation is the pump and pipeline characteristic, the pump head is higher than the resistance of pipeline, so that the water flow movement (increase too large). Pump power becomes largerShut down the water pump, the valve will certainly reduce the amount of water, as for whether to reach 180, you can see the pressure gauge to show the pump lift to determine the pressure of less than 70 meters, the flow of more than 180

Q:The water pump needs to be replaced but now it is taking several attempts to start the car.: No, the two would be unrelated. What is the car doing? Is the starter turning the engine over every time fast enough? Then it is not the starter, and you should look for something else.

Q:removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...: Corrosion is now holding everything to the pump. Use a screwdriver to help separate them. Here is a link compliments of Auto Zone showing how to remove the water pump. You will note in the picture that the pump has a shaft sticking out of the front. That is holding the clutch and fan on. Earlier I gave you the wrong link. This is the correct one for the V6. The others were for the V8s They mention to remove the fan before removing the water pump. The fan should be bolted to the clutch in the manner you say. If you grasp the shaft on the pump, the fan and clutch should rotate freely. If you pulled the 4 bolts off the pulley, the fan and clutch assembly should come off. The pulley should then fall free. Is anyone else helping you with this and they already took the bolts out? If not you must have some alternate water pump that Chrysler failed to tell everyone about. Is the large nut against the pulley or the fan clutch? I wish we could talk on the phone. Get a mallet. Put the pump on a clean surface and use the mallet to tap the pulley on one side then the other. Hopefully this will help work this off. Once you get this off, you will see it should look like the pictures I sent to you. I just sent you another link that has 3 different ways they have the fan mounted to the water pump. Yes, there is a large nut holding the clutch on. It says it is a right handed nut so be careful taking it off.

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