• Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 3
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 4
Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Material:
Cast Iron

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

 

Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

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Product parameters of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Capacity

up to 250 m3/h  

Head

up to305m

Speed 

up to 3600rpm

Power 

up to 200kw

Voltage

220V to 480V

Temperature range

Within 120 Deg C

 Working pressure

Within 40bar

Application of Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure.

CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, While CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid. 

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings. 

Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, high-pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali .

Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, swimming pool, separator.

Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation 


Operation Condition of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.

Liquid temperature:

Normal temperature type: -15~+70,

Hot water type: +70~+120

Ambient temperature: Up to +40

Altitude: Up to 1000m 

 

Electric motor of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump
Full-enclosed air-blast two-pole standed motor 
Protection class: IP55 
Insulation class: F 
Standard voltage 

 

50Hz: 
1x220230/240V 
3x200220/346380V 
3x220240/380415V 
3x380415V 
60Hz: 
3X200230/346400V 
3x220255/380440V 
3x220227/380480V

 

Picture show of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

Trading market

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Transportation

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Q:I bought a new water pump for my 89 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 V6. The guy at Autozone wanted to know if I wanted a standard one or the heavy duty. I bought the heavy duty one because it was only $5.00 more. Are they just built stronger or do they actually move more water?
Same thing, may have a cast impeller instead of aluminum. You wont benifit from it at all, and even if it did move more water it really wouldnt do you any good anyway, its not necessary
Q:Do I need to change the water pump if I replace the timing belt ? and does the water pump connect with the timing belt ? if the water pump goes out will it bend the rods ?
i would get out of that thing they are nothing but trouble always! a have a freind got a nice chevy ,never been happier?
Q:how can i choose a water pump that is truely on demand as in shuts off when not needed automaticly i purchaced one that claimed it was a quot;demandpump is mine defective or not a true on demand pump?
RV section is probably under cars and transportation, others. On demand pumps are quite common and used in many RV's.
Q:I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
Q:how do you check the water pump? We started the engine with water running through the bunny ears and no water is running out.
There should be with muffs even if the impeller is bad check the thermostat or drop the foot and check the impeller.
Q:coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic
Take an autoshop class.
Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?
if at an idle you see coolant flowing in the radiator, the pump is ok... More info is needed here really, assuming you don't ever have to add coolant though... I'd flush the system... if you do add coolant and find no leaks around the engine (weep hole, hoses, freeze plug) check the passenger side floorboard for moisture, the heater core may be shot...
Q:Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties.If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.
Q:I was driving when my temp gauge shot up all the way so i pulled off the next exit and my car shut off and started smoking i noticed the water pump belt was in shreds and what seemed to be anti freeze fluid and water was everywhere. I'm curious what could have broke maybe a gasket or the waterpump it's self besides just the belt?
It seems to be a water pump failure, unfortunately that kind of failure is unpredictable and can easily sneak up on you. What happens is the pump fails and then the belt gets literally gets burnt off, this issue can be a cascade failure because the excessive engine heat can cause a number of COSTLY internal engine problems because aluminum engine blocks these days can't handle prolonged excessive heat. Hopefully not in your case, but just to give you an idea of the issue and everything surrounding it. The cost to repair at a shop can run anywhere from 200$ to 600$ depending on where you take it, you can do it yourself if you are mechanically inclined but i suggest a professional because they can also further detect any damage that the pump failure may have caused.
Q:the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
This is your recirculating pump. If it is a marine pump, it will have a brass backed seal and no heater hose outlet. (have seen them in the casting, but no hole there) The only difference is the casting, as long as it was ordered for the boat, you should be OK. For got to ask, do you have a cabin heater in the boat?

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