Vertical Mixed Flow Pump LX/LB/LT/LK Series

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Vertical Mixed Flow Pump LX/LB/LT/LK Series

General Description
LX, LB, LT, LK Series vertical mixed flow pumps are widely used in handling circulating water in large scale power stations and nuclear power stations, metallurgy, water supply & drainage of municipal facilities and farmlands as well as mining drainage. They are provided for delivering clear water , rainwater, sewage and seawater below 55℃.
Performance range
Capacity Q: 0.20~25m3/h
Head H: 3~60m
The pump of the above-mentioned range can be tested in our test center which is the largest in China.

Instruction of pump type
For example：80LK-20A / 80LB-20A / 80LX-20
80: Pump outlet diameter (inch)
L: Vertical mixed flow pump
T: Vertical mixed flow pump (impeller blades adjustable in operation)
K: Rotor can be pulled out
B: Rotor can not be pulled out
X: Outlet is under pump foundation
S: Outlet is above pump foundation
20: Rate head
A: Impeller after cutting.

Structure
*The pump is vertically installed with the inlet vertical downward and the outlet horizontal extending.
*The rotor parts have pull-out mode and non-pull-out mode. The impeller blades of type T pump can be adjustable in operation.
*The pump installation has two choices. One is single foundation: the pump and the motor are connected directly and mounted on one concrete foundation; the other is double foundation: the pump and the motor are mounted on separate concrete foundation.
*The seal usually uses packing seal.
*The intake sump of the pump can be wet pit or dry pit.
*The axial thrust of the pump is usually carried by the motor, but small pumps usually carried by the pump itself.
*The impeller of the pump is usually one stage and it can be designed to be multistage as requirements.
*The bearings of the pump can be rubber bearings or Thordon bearings, when the rubber bearings are used, the shaft protected by a set of shaft sleeves with pressure clear water for lubrication.
Material of main parts
Shaft: High-quality carbon steel.
Impeller: Cast iron / Cast steel / Stainless steel.
Other parts: Cast iron / welded steel plate.
Parts range
Pump, Motor, Foundation plate and Mounting resistant cushion.

Q:i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator: this is why I do not buy remanufactured pumps, it is best to buy a new water pump if you can, it will last the lifetime of the car pretty much, remanufactured for what ever reason the water pumps just did not do the job, and I know my mechanic got tired of putting one on, only to have to take it off because it leaked, make sure the water pump is the problem though.

Q:I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.: most likely the pressure switch is stuck/corroded. this is a common problem with on demand type pumps.try tapping on the pressure switch to see if it will work.if the pump is installed properly,the motor should be at the top and the pump and switch will be at the bottom.i consider these pumps disposable. expect to replace it every couple of years.

Q:Pump head is too high what's the impact?: After the determination of the pump type, such as the actual pump lift is too high, it will not only result in lower efficiency of the pump, and will seriously affect the actual flow of the pump to Q decline. On the contrary, if the pump head selected too high, but the actual operation of the lift is too low, is also affecting the pump efficiency and decrease caused by actual operation when the flow is too large, it is likely to increase the pump power beyond the rated current of the motor and the heating.

Q:How can I be sure the water pump is the problem before spending $ on repairs. 97 civic overheating.?: Simple overheating is rarely the water pump. In most cases water pump failure means either a leak, which is visible as dripping from a weep hole under the car near the timing belt cover, or as a seized shaft, which would mean the engine would quit running immediately and probably be seriously damaged by failure of the timing belt that powers the water pump. Having got past that, consider the conditions of the overheating. If you are losing coolant, start with that. Verify the loss is not because of a head gasket by the simple test: with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and place the palm of your hand over the radiator neck where the cap came off, and pinch closed the hose to the reservoir. If you feel steadily rising pressure within 3-5 seconds (if the idle is surging, ignore those changes) that is bad news for the head gasket. Otherwise move on. Look for leaks at the end of every hose by feeling with a clean paper towel on your hand, and look for whitish streaks around the top and bottom of the radiator. If coolant is not disappearing, the overheating must occur when in slow traffic or idling, or on the highway, or all the time. If it is when going slow or idling you probably won't see the fan running when it is hot. If it is on the highway, or if it gets hot and stays hot all the time, the radiator is probably plugged with hard water deposits from using tap water to dilute the antifreeze.

Q:my water pump is leaking and chirping would like to know the procedure: Drain the coolant. Remove fan clutch. Remove radiator shroud. Remove serpentine belt. Disconnect top and bottom radiator hoses. Disconnect bypass and heater hose. Remove the pump bolts. Remove the pump. Clean all old gasket material off block. Reverse to install! Be sure to use anaerobic sealer on the bolts that enter into the water passages. It's a good idea to replace the thermostat at this time, and flush the radiator and block, as well as use new coolant.

Q:The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.: If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.

Q:What is the function of a submersible pump?: Submersible pump motor and pump is directly connected with the water pump body into the water to work, it is suitable for the extraction of groundwater from wells, can also be used in rivers, reservoirs, canals and other water projects: mainly used for irrigation and plateau in the drinking water, but also for the city, factories, railways, mining and construction site the use of water supply and drainage.Characteristics of submersible pumps for well1 、 motor, water pump, submerged operation, safe and reliable.2, the well pipe and pump water pipe without special requirements (i.e.: steel tube wells, tube wells, Doi ash can be used).3, installation, use and maintenance of convenient, simple, small footprint, do not need to build pumping stations.The structure is simple, and the raw materials are saved.4, submersible pump conditions are appropriate, properly managed, and has a direct relationship with the service life.

Q:My 2001 300M is behaving oddly. Occasionally it will gradually overheat after I have driven around for 15 or so minutes. Yes, occasionally. I took it to my mechanic who changed the thermostat and hoses. I then drove it on a trip on the interstate and over a mountain (140 miles ) It was fine with no signs of overheating. Then the next day when I drove to work in the city, the stop and go traffic had it overheating near the end of the trip. I've been able to keep it from going in the red by using the heater. After this happened most of the days, but not all, I took it back to the shop. He reported that the fans were working correctly and the only thing he could come up with is a weak water pump. He stated that when it did get hot, he was able to bring the temp down just by rev'ing the engine a little.Does that sound right? Any other ideas and how to test?: I've okorder

Q:my water pump is making this quot;chuckingsound, and i was wondering if bad water pump creates these sound? and also, do i need to replace the serpentine belt at the same time?: pump is probably bad, and yes the timing belt needs to changed at the same time so you don't have to pay labor when the time comes to change it.

Q:I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.: You would be playing with fire to use electric pumps to cool the transmissions and v drives. I doubt they would put out the volume of cooling water needed to cool them and have enough extra volume just in case. Besides, the raw water pumps also would cool the engines and exhaust systems if they are raw water cooled or they would cool the anti freeze and exhaust and transmissions with heat exchangers and oil coolers. Those transmission coolers should be plumbed into the raw water system using the same water that flows through the engines. Not to mention the reliability of the electric pumps vs engine driven pumps.

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