• Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167 System 1
  • Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167 System 2
  • Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167 System 3
Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
50000 unit/month

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Technical Details

Type

 

turbocharger

 

OEM NO.

 

318281

 

Part NO.

 

318281 318167

 

8970385180 VA180027

Application

 

Deutz / Khd Traktor

Engine model

 

Deutz 

 

Turbo model

 

S100


Product Description


Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167



Factory Show


  • Certified by ISO 9001:2009 and ISO/TS 16949:2008 standards, CNBM is a leading manufacturer and exporter of Turbochargers and Racing products in China since 1994.

  • Producing TURBOCHARGERS of Garrett, Holset, KKK, Schwitzer, MHI and IHI models. Totally 300 different models, exporting to over 30 countries incl. EU, North & South America, Middle East & etc..

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167

Turbocharger for Volvo EC135B EC140B Deutz S100 318281 318167



Packing & Delivery


Packing Detail:

  • Neutal Packing or the package as requirement

  • One turbo in a Carton

  • Wooden case is a good choice for ocean shipping

Delivery Detail:7-30 Days.(As Per Quantity)



Specifications


  • High Speed, higher torque and improved response.

  • Lower Fuel Consumption.

  • Turbo and all its parts 100% changeable with original.

  • Perfect Follow-up Service



In Addition,we are also business in parts of Turbocharger such as:

  • Turbine Housing

  • Compressor Housing/Cover

  • Bearing Housing

  • Repair Kits

  • CHRA

  • Valve

  • Shaft Wheel 

  • Compressor Wheel/Impeller


Q:Hey Skyline freinds :) hope your reading this also Tricky!!i have a suspicion there is a restrictor in my Nissan skyline's R34 GT 1998 Non-turbo Air intake, can anyone elaberate on this or confirm it or tell me not to be silly? and if not, would it make much diffrence if i where to install a cold intake pipe form the carby to the far left vent inlet on my front body kit?thanx!
Erm, first of all it is injected and not carby.secondly, yes it will make a difference in performance, but only marginally. If it is a box you're worried about on the side of the intake tube (before the Air Flow Meter), that is just a silencer to keep induction noise down. It can also be removed to allow a better path for the air to flow. Only slight performance gains can be expected from these, but it is a start ;)
Q:and what other types of air intakes are there? Whats the difference?thanks!
takes more air in the car.
Q:I got a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, and i have a AEM short ram installed, and i was just curious about when i should clean the air filter? and how do i do it? i installed it about 5 months ago and have not cleaned it. i haven‘t really gone on any long road trips though.Question 2: Whats the difference between the long cold air intake and the short ram? i have the short ram, would i notice any difference with the long one?i didn‘t get the long one because with the 99 eclipse it can suck water up on rainy days? is that true because it stays pretty close to the ground.10 POINTS TO WHOEVER ANSWER BOTH MY QUESTIONS THE BEST! :]
Question 1: To clean the filter your going to need time its not a quick job if you want to do it right, get the AEM solvent and oil, the simplest way i have found to do this is to get a 5 gallon water bucket full of warm water, spray the cone with the solvent (this acts like soap) and dip the cone in and out until debris falls off (make sure that there is no water going to the inside of the cone the inside should be somewhat clean and you don't want the dirty water flowing to the interior of the cone) spray the cone again dip again usually i get a second bucket of clean water and do it again with the clean water, do this at least 3 times with the solvent. If you have an air compressor air dry it as much as you can and let it sit until its completely dry. then spray with the oil and let it sit until its completely dry again, and make sure not to over apply the oil 1 thin coat all the way through let it sit til it dries then put a second light coat. I usually clean mine on the 3 oil change regardless of driving conditions. Question 2: the short ram bolts onto the air box space while the long ram you have to take off more plastic because it goes by the fender and the bumper, if you are worried about the water get the AEM Air bypass valve for your application while this is not the answer to the problem it is a precaution and remember the intake has to be submerged in the water not just from driving in the rain. the long ram would be to your advantage because it gets CLEAN COLD AIR and at the same time it gets a deeper sound and its been proven on the Dyno graph to be superior in horsepower. I wish you would have given more info on your motor and i would have given you exact differences. The long ram also has the area so that you can put the Air Bypass valve.
Q:im looking to buy a 240sx and the guy said it stutters cause it has a cold air intake is there a way to fix the stutter
idle air control valve is probly where your problem is. also if it has a high flow air filter like k and n theres a chance the oil on the filter or some very small dirt got on to the mass air flow meter which will give you all sorts of issues price for a mas air flow sensor 50-500 it all depends on the price of parts
Q:Car intake system leak, the car is running at all? Or idling high?
The normal engine speed is controlled by the intake air through the throttle replica, the more the intake air, the higher the speed (fuel injection is calculated by the intake air), if the air without throttle (exposed) Throttle replica can not control the intake volume. So idling will be high.
Q:what would be the best one to buy?? and why should i buy one?
Most cold air intakes are just a gimmick to get you to buy a $200 piece of plastic, and many of them don't actually suck in cold air, quite a few of them just end up sucking in hot engine compartment air, and as for the 10-15Hp gain, i highly doubt that, make your own if you want one, you can buy a kit from auto zone fairly cheaply, and run it however you want, why don't you invest in a hand held tuner/get your prom reprogrammed, to get some extra hp out of you're car, or upgrade some ignition components, or buy a good exhaust setup with some headers (no fart can on the back though), it would probally be more power than you would get from a cold air intake, but if you are hell bent on getting a cold air intake steer away from spectre, their filters rust super easily
Q:I was wondering what are good air intake systems that I can put on my truck and it will give it power and save some gas. I would like to know the brand and what kind.
i myself in simple terms offered a Silverado 1500 on Friday, and that i actually like it! i like the OnStar, and the XM radio beneficial factors. additionally, i think of it is in ordinary terms a greater effective looking truck. As for the journey, it is an extremely delicate journey, like a Cadillac. on the comparable time, its have been given an excellent form of potential in the back of it. The warranties are large too. It even comes with a 6 12 months guarantee on rust! i might pass with the Silverado for particular!
Q:i Have an 08 Honda civic. I just installed an after market intake. after driving around a lil while my check engine light turned on. I figured it was the computer getting use to the new intake, But it has been two days and it is still on. I check all of my hoses clamps and fitting everything is tight. I don‘t know why it hasn‘t turned off.
Make sure your MAF sensor is connected. also make sure that you didn't get any oil on that sensor as that would cause the check engine light to come on. I am assuming the filters that came with your intake are pre-oiled.
Q:Someone told me that it is bad for the central air system to cover the intake vents with furniture, even though the furniture sits on legs and is not flush with the floor.any ideas or answers?
insufficient return air can be very detrimental. The goal should be not effectively reduce the opening size. So, if the return air opening is 6 x 24, that's a total of 144 square inches. Your furniture should be high enough so that the area directly over the return air opening will provide at least 144 (in the sum of all four sides). If it's a sofa, no matter how large, that sits above the return air opening 3, here's the deal: 24+24+6+6 60 x 3 180 of open space around return air. Now, if the return air opening is against an outside wall and the sofa was pressed against the wall, you have to take on 24 dimension out of the math: 24+6+636 x 3 108 of open area. This may seem like a complex way to answer a simple question, but this is applied in industry all the time and is especially important if you're dealing with forced air heat.
Q:Does the Air intake help with better gas mileage. If so what is a good brand to go with. I also want to keep the performance and still get better gas mileage.
It just eeks me when this subject is covered. Here is why. Like your mouth and nose, the air intake for your motor is ideal for all conditions and changing it never improves fuel economy - despite the ads and parts store promos for them. Will you run better if you enlarge you nose and mouth openings? No! Neither will your motor. Your motor runs ideally, at 18 parts gas to one million parts air. The computer is always adjusting fuel and timing to keep instantly close to that parameter. So, will opening the air intake up help change those controlled conditions? No, of course. You may have hidden problems internally causing power-robbing problems - which is normal as friction and sticky residues grow, lowering full power development. You may be pressing the gas pedal down more to feed more fuel to the motor to keep the speed going. Those negatives steal some of the power made trying to over coming friction and sticky moving parts. About 20% of normal power at any given speed is lost due to those wear-out factors. Maybe, you might try special additives that correct those problems like Mega Power, which is made to improve mileage by ending the wear problems that lower it. Would reducing the excessive amounts of friction and sticky residues deterring your power be your problem? After 7 years of age, it could well be. Read about this product and see. Maybe it is what you need, not a larger air intake. Hope this idea helps.

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