The corrugated sheet

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The corrugated sheet is a high strength and durable steel, mostly used for a architectural decoration. We can produce profiled sheets of all kinds of types and colors. Since it adopts high strength steel sheet and the dimension is designed reasonably, the corrugated sheets are widely used on roofs and walls of various buildings, which can be easily installed, be flexible and changeable, unrestricted by no factor of the buildings.

Pressing steel panel with the clear line, and many colors for choice, suitable for any different building style materials, achieving satisfy effects;

CORRUGATED PREPAINTED GALVANIZED STEEL SHEET

STEEL GRADE & STANDARD:JIS G3312 CGCC

ZINC COATING MASS:Z60(+/-10g)

TOP COATING THICKNESS & TYPE:5+10UM POLYESTER

TOP COATING COLOR:RAL9002

BACK COATING THICKNESS & TYPE:5UM EPOXY

BACK COATING COLOR:WHITE GREY

THICKNESS :0.2MM

WIDTH:900MM

LENGTH:2000MM

PACKAGE TYPE:PACKED WITH STEEL PALLET

BUNDLE WEIGHT:AROUND 3MT

SHAPE AS PER PICTURE & SAMPLE FROM BUYER

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Q:GUITAR! is this nylon or steel? - fingerstyle?
Once you LEARN how to play a guitar.. you will know just how stupid that question sounded. CLASSICAL guitars use NYLON STRINGS and ACOUSTIC guitars use STEEL STRINGS and either type of string will make your fingers sore until you get some ca louses on them
Q:Strength of aluminum/steel i-beams?
steel is definitely cheaper than aluminum. for the same size, steel is stronger. and much heavier. it may/will require stronger support posts. you'll want to be careful not to set up a galvanic reaction where you have steel and aluminum meet. stainless steel is much more expensive. you just want to make sure your steel beams have a good rustproof coating. either zinc plate or paint.
Q:Disadvantages of stainless steel?
Stainless Steel has more advantages than disadvantages. But u asked for disadvantages so they r as follows i've given common disadvantages more can be found on Google. Disadvantages of Stainless Steel: Stainless steel tends to scratch and dent. Food, grease and fingerprints show very clearly on stainless steel, making frequent wiping and cleaning a necessity. High initial cost Difficult to fabricate, or in other words, it is not as malleable as other metals, say iron, and hence if not fabricated properly, results in costly re-work. Difficult to weld High cost of polishing etc. i.e. adding finishing touches for the market. there are advantages more than disadvantages. But u asked for disadvantages that's why i have given only disadvantages of stainless steel Hope what u want u got.
Q:Best Steel Road bike?
Lots of good companies out there. Surly Pacer is one to check out.
Q:Why are most homes framed of wood rather than steel?
Basically, it's because wood was available first and wood is still the cheaper, more widely available material. Way back when man started building dwellings similar to what we have now, steel was not an option for the masses. The process probably hadn't even been invented or perfected yet, there was not the widespread transportation of goods that we have today either. Early shelters were not even put together with nails, they use wooden pegs because metal was so expensive and not widely available. I can't say that it would be better for the environment; it takes a tremendous amount of electricity to smelt and produce metals. And you have the emissions problems from the factories and the power generation. I'd have to do more research on that one. A managed timber stand actually reduces greenhouse gasses and every scrap of that tree can be used in one form or another. The only energy expenditures are moving the trees to the saw mill, cutting at the saw mill and transportation of the goods after that point. And that would be a lot less than the power required to make the same number of feet of steel products.
Q:why do you heat steel when hardening?
Gary is right, but maybe I can simplify it. It's very complex..... When you heat (hardenable) steel the carbon and iron form crystalline structures. Martensite and Austenite are most prominent, but there are others. Those are the hard crystals. When you quench it, those structures don't have time to dissolve as they would with slow cooling, so you freeze the crystalline structure in that state. Since that is too hard for most things, you temper it. Heating to a certain temp lets ~some~ of the crystals dissolve away. Annealing is heating and letting it cool slowly, so those structures will break up back into carbon and iron, leaving the steel soft. It's like a little atomic machine - crystals form, dissolve away, form again, with heat. It's waaaaay deeper than just that in detail, but that's the gist of it.
Q:how to understand the chemistry of a metal.. especially steel.. from their names...?
For steels with a four number code like 1020, 4140 ect the first two digits are the alloying information. I think you need to memorise those. 10 steels are plain carbon steel with no alloying. 41 steels are chrome-molly. The third and forth digits are the carbon content. 1020 is 0.2% Carbon, 4140 is 0.4% carbon. I don't know if there is a system to stainless steels.
Q:Is a steel plate the same as a steel coil?
You must have an open book and a flat plate, and it is a little bit harder to cut the parts than the plate.
Q:How would you encase steel in concrete?
OK, here is my take on it Take equal lengths of steel wire, one is going to bare, one is going to be encased You will need a tension rig, simply this will be one fixed end and one end you can hang a weight down. For the test you will affix one end and string it between to supports with one end hanging off, which is where you will put the weight. The put a ruler where the weight is, so as the weight pulls the wire down (after it is hot) you can time the stretching. lastly you need a place to put a controlled fire under the wire, I'd reccommend something tame like a camping stove OK, got a test rig and two pieces and a way to test. You'll have to play with different fires and weights to see what works best Putting the concrete on the wire is a tricky one since you don't want the concrete to take the load. Get a tub or dish of approriate size and put some wet concrete in it, partway up. Take one of the wires and coat it with wax or something like it that is soft. Place the wire, with the ends sticking out, in the concrete tub and pour more on to cover it. Let this whole thing harden. You might want to have a specific shape to the tub so it comes out a certain size Now, you have an uncoated wire and an coated one. Be careful you don't pull the wire out of the concrete Another way to do this would be to use joing compound, which is a type of mortor (cement). You can buy it a home depot or such. Mix it up as thick as possible and just cake it on the wire and let harden. You can shape the coating using saran wrap or something maybe. I my world we call this stuff monster mud, its used to shape things for Halloween props like robes into figures. Its quite sturdy when done When you are ready to test just hook each part up with the same fire and weight and take readings of stretch vs. time
Q:So i got caught steeling?
Steeling? What's that? Did you take a piece of steel and weld it? I am confused?

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