• TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator System 1
TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator

TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator

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Principle & Characteristics

The voltage regulator is in the structure of adjustable compensator, it wind a coil on the loop core,thee brush coincide with the rubbed surface of the coil closely under the spring pressure effect,rotate
the revolving shaft to drive the brush stand, and make the brush move along the coil surf ace to change the contact position of the brush, that means change the turns rate of primary and secondary coil, which
can make the output voltage stepless adjusted within the adjustment range. It has the advantage of no waveform distortion, small volume, less weight, high efficiency, simple and reliable operation, un for
long period and so on.


Scope of Application

It is widely used in industry (as chemical industry、metallurgy、instruments、meters、electromechanical manufacturing、light industry etc.)、scientific experiment、public facilities and domestic electric appliance to fulfill voltage regulating、temperature control、speed regulating、light adjusting、power control and so on, it is an ideal AC regulated power source.


Main Technical Parameter Size & Weight

Note: 1.TDGC、TSGC series products are same with the TDGC2j、TSGC2j series. 2.The said overall size and weight are for reference only.


Q:I needs to locate it in order to change the fuse to work the heated seats and i am having a hard time locating it. I have read the user manual by the way and its very unclear to where it actually is!
This was not the case on my 99 Couger. Fords Hidden central fusebox and this is applicable to many models and not just the Couger. After much googling I located the whereabouts of the Central fuse box,its not easy even when you know where its supposed to be? I posted this on another forum The central fuse box is located under the glove box,you need to take down the foot well trim.Its not easy to see use a torch there is a small button which you pull to lower the fusebox then you can pull the fusebox towards you to access the fuses.There seems to be lots of people with this problem and seems to be a stupid place to hide a fusebox and seems designed to drag you into a main dealer for a petty fault.My own fault was a central locking boot release problem a simple case of replacing the 20 amp fuse and freeing off the boot release key barrel with WD 40 at least ?200 @ your friendly dealer.
Q:i have built a 1amp 7.2volt power supply and i'm wondering if it will be able to charge a 7.2volt 1600mAh battery.please help me, please, please.Thanks In Advance.
Not a good idea. You may blow a breaker or fuse, or the wiring and components could get so hot that they could start a fire. That wouldn't be very likely with only 7.2 volts, but still not a chance I would be willing to take.
Q:I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.
That's one of many possibilities. Get out the multimeter and test all possible componants 'till you find the dead one. Hopefuly it's just a thermal fuse or thermostat and not the motor or timer!
Q:i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
Most likely the breaker fuse inside the power supply fried may have successfully prevented mainboard components from damage. In some units this is a user serviceable part. Unless you are an experienced micro electrician I would simply replace the power supply. They cost anywhere from 30 to 80 dollars. regards, Philip T
Q:Do you usually buy the cheap OKorder batteries? or through a distributor?What do you think about the rumour that the cheap batteries have some missing safety components similar to a fuse etc (to my knowledge, batteries dont' have fuses) that prevent overheating. And the cheap batteries are prone to catching fire after they have overheated.
If buying NiMH batteries, I always use name brand batteries like Powerex or Eneloop. I also use a good quality charger, like Maha. Having the extra capacity and performance is important so I suddenly don't have enough juice to finish shooting. Also, the quality batteries save money in the long run.
Q:I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Galant ES. The fuel level and RPM gauge will not work at all. I tried changing them out with the same result. The fuse for the gauges is ok. All other lights and the temp gauge works. Thanks
Double check the fuse box. You may have checked the fuse that list the gauges, but there could be a second fuse running those 2 gauges. It might be listed under the fuse but behind some other components that that fuse also runs. If not, I would pull and check all fuses in case they didn't list it right. Also there maybe a second fuse/relay box under the hood. Check that too.
Q:For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
May be this will help you: ?A: Assemblies ?B: Transducers / Sensors / Detectors ?C: Capacitors ?D: Storage devices ?E: Miscellaneous ?F: Fuses ?G: Generator, battery pack ?H: Indicators, signaling devices ?J: Connector / connector pin Joining another connector (P) ?K: Relays ?L: Inductors and filters ?M: Motors ?N: Analogue devices ?P: Measuring / test point / connector plug ?Q: Transistors ?R: Resistors ?S: Switches, push buttons, emergency stops and limit switches ?T: Transformers ?U: Integrated circuits, Power converters, DC power supplies ?V: Electron vacuum tubes tubes ?W: Wires, conductors, power, neutral and earthing busses ?X: Terminal strips, terminations, joins ?Y: Solenoids, electrical actuators ?Z: Filters
Q:I recently bought a truck, it starts and runs great. However there is a serious electrical problem, the windshield wipers, electronic windows, and radio do not work. I have checked all the fuses and none were blown. Where else do I go from here in finding what the problem would be.
Get/find a wiring diagram (autozone has some for free if you check around their website) and you will have to track it down from there. I suspect those components are powered via a relay on the fuse panel, but not certain.
Q:I have a carpc, and it works fine usually, and today I decided to clean up the wires a little well anyways long story short, I shorted something out, and the computer shut off I checked all of my car fuses, and fixed one that was blown, and tried it agian, but nothing would happen I took the computer inside, and plugged it into my desktop's power supply, (4 pin, and mobo cable) and the green light showed up, but when I hook up a switch to the front panel connector, nothing happens. no fan spin or anything ram is seated correctly etc, and i don't think its a mobo fuse because the mobo light is green need some help here will award 10 points to someone who knows what they are talking about, not someone who just wants a quick 2 points.
Plug it in.
Q:And how are they wired?
There are two sides to the average home A/C unit. You have the evaporator side or indoor blower and the condenser side outdoor unit. On a close of the thermostat 24v from r to y (G) the indoor fan relay closes(24v GC). Allowing 110v to the indoor blower. The 24v signal also travels to the condensing unit (YC). If equipped with low and/or high pressure switches and they are closed 24v will be supplied to the cooling contactor. When the cooling contactor coil is powered 220v will pass through the contactor to the compressor and condenser fan (Condenser fan sometimes have fan cycling controls). Both compressor and condenser fans have capacitors. Indoor blower motor typically 110v supplied to indoor unit through breaker Outdoor unit typically 220v supplied through separate breaker. Indoor unit transformer takes 110v and down steps to 24v for control power. (Sometimes internally fused) Typical 24v wiring C- Common leg of 24v R- Red supply side of 24v W- Heat Y- Cooling G- Indoor Fan

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