Submersible Drainage Pump for Clean Water

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1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product Description:

Application

They are recommended for pumping clean water without abrasive particles and liquids that are chemically non-aggressive to the materials of which the pump is made. Mainly used for well pumping, river pumping, farm irrigation, water supply, drainage in breeding industry.

Operating Limits

1. Trans medium's PH: 6-8.5

2. Fluid temperature limit:<40 < span="">°C
3. Max ambient temperature:<40 < span="">°C
4. Operating depth: << span="">5m

5. Sand content in medium: << span="">0.1%
6. Sand size in medium: 
<0.2mm< span="">
7.  Pump working position: More than 0.5m over the bottom, should not be inserted into sludge.

Materials

Motor housing:  Aluminum
Impeller: Aluminum
Motor wire: Copper or Aluminum
Suction strainer: Steel or SS
Outlet: Brass or SS
Mechanical seal: Ceramic - Graphite 
Shaft: C45S or SS304

Motor

2-pole induction motor
Insulation Class: E
Protection: IPX8
Single-phase with capacitor and thermal overload protection


Model Instruction

QDX15-17-0.37(F)

(F): With float switch.

0.37: Rate power(kw)

17: Rated head(m)

1.5: Rated flow(m3/h)

QDX: Model code, and no "D" means three-phase


 

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Q:When is it necessary to replace the timing belt and water pump on a 2001 Mazda Protege?
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
Q:question about water pump?
If the sand is suspended in the water then yes there are pumps that will pump it. Other wise no.
Q:explain the operation of a water pump....?
Water pumps are available in different types. 1. Centrifugal type: Operate by increasing the velocity of water which, when the velocity is decreased by the Volute casing, the pressure increases. 2. Rotary Gear type.: Operate by Displacement of the water by rotating, gears that trap water between the teeth of 2 rotors of inter-meshing gears that release the water at a higher pressure on the opposite side of the pump to the intake. 3. Piston (reciprocating type: Also a displacement operation by a piston moving backwards and forwards within a cylinder (like a hypodermic syringe in operation). Back stroke takes water into the cylinder and forward stroke discharges it at a higher pressure. (Double acting types are also used that take in and discharge alternately from both ends).
Q:My '97 Pontiac Grand Prix is leaking the water we put into it from underneath the car. Is it the water pump?
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q:Dodge Ram water pump problems?
These water pumps are chronically junk. Luckily they are easy to change. If your mechanically inclined at all you can replace it for about $75 including antifreeze and it will take about 1.5 hours. Otherwise you should figure about $175 plus to have a shop replace it. ______________________________________ I see someone stated that they usually leak by this point. Thats true for every other vehicle ever made BUT! not for this unit.
Q:Replacing water pump and heater...?
true. is this hot water heater and pump? rarely do both go bad at once. A hot water heater is 2-300 and install is maybe 150. get an HVAC tech for an opinion. don't take one person's word for anything in which they stand to make a profit.
Q:water pump leak headache?
Pay an automotive repair shop to do it. Then it is their problem. Even the best technicians need help once in a while. Yes it costs 3x as much, but no more headache for you.
Q:How to introduce water pump?
Using the results of 1, in the past, the general company will make a performance table, in which use the same type of pump operating conditions and you almost use down till now there have been no problem, what you can say.2, reliability. Power plants may care more about the reliability of the equipment than on the price of the pump. Of course, the technology and procurement of power plants are not stupid. They will weigh it themselves.3, pump efficiency. Because the general pump special large pump involves a power plant called "factory power consumption" index, the smaller the better the index, and your pump if it is efficient, it will reduce the target, the power plant may be interested.4, if you want to sell the pumps have their own technical characteristics, you can also be appropriate to describe it, but if you are a salesman, but the technology is not very proficient in it, and the best little power plant technical personnel, because they ask if you can not answer, its effect is counterproductive.
Q:Water pumps leaking on a Chevy Express Van?
do not put stopleak in your car. it will destroy it. fix the waterpump
Q:what do you need to do to remove water pump?
I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck

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