Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price
CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V
- Q:All the water to my house comes from the river close by - via a 1500kw surface pump, into a large pressurised tank. If there is ever any kind of blockage in the pipe - or if it freezes ...this causes the pump to run - 'dry' - which eventually burns out the motor. I have lost 2 pumps so far because of running dry - and they are very expensive.I would like to fit some kind of automatic cut-out - that will ALWAYS stop the pump running after 15 minutes or perhaps less - as that is ALL the time it needs - if the water is flowing freely - to fill the pressurised tank. I feel sure such a thing must exist - but I do not know what it is called or where to buy one. Does anyone know of a 'switch' of this kind? And where to look for one? What could I put into google to do a search - for suppliers and prices, please?
- the best thing is buy a submersable pump it is cheap and never burn
- Q:Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
- On many cars you cannot see the coolant circulating especially at idle. Just because you do not have heat does not mean the water pump, and if your car is not overheating it is probably - I say probably - doing its job. So stop putting thermostats on, probably assume the water pump is okay. So, put a thermometer into the radiator to see how hot the coolant is getting - should be ~180 degrees or so. Hmmmm - Does this car have an electronic climate control system? Perhaps that is the reason you have an intermittant problem. Assuming manual climate control - It could be a vacuum leak to one of the manual vents that is allowing cool air to mix with the hot. Or, maybe the slider from hot to cold is not working. What troubles me is the intermittant problem here. So, I will go out on a limb and say it could possibly be a bad head gasket for reasons I will not get into here. In any case, Good Luck!
- Q:to see if it is pumping coolant
- It is working if you're not overheating, both radiator hoses get hot, and you see lots of coolant movement in the radiator after warm up.
- Q:What is the defection of water pump
- Anti water hammer phenomenon that is usually said, it is in the high pressure water pump suddenly stops working, the height would hit back phenomenon called defectionThis situation generally occurs in the water pump outlet does not install a check valve, the valve with a check valve has a sound, but the check valve can be a good protection of water pump
- Q:The truck is a 1982 Ford pickup F100. We didn't realize it was an F100 at the time and we put the F150 water pump on it. The water pump fits perfectly, but is this going to mess up the engine at all?
- Here's the deal: F100 - F150 doesn't mean squat. The engine cubic inch displacement does. Both engines have to be exactly alike.
- Q:I am having overheating issues with my 1993 3.4L V6 Camaro,Once I start the car with no AC or Heat on while at idle or driving the car will overheat, almost to the red line. When I get onto the highway it will slowly drop all the way down to operating tempeture.Also if I turn on either the AC or Heat while driving around town the car will not overheat.On my way home I turned everything off and let the car overheating, when I got home I opened the hood and the fans are going but still overheating.Also the major sympton is that the water pump will click on and off when I have AC blowing. It will click on and off every 10 seconds or so.New waterpump?
- Try a thermostat first. The heater bypasses the thermostat and the engine runs cool. Its a cheap fix and if thats not the fix go with troubleshooting the radiator, colapsed hoses, water pump! Be sure to install it correctly!
- Q:2001 buick centurywater runs down at area of crank shaft
- on the very bottom of the pump there is a weep hole. This leaks the coolant once the pump bearing seal deteriorates and pours coolant over the area of the crankshaft...gl
- Q:1998 Honda civic water pump plastic or metal inside (OEM)?
- OEM have plastic impellers. pretty sure.
- Q:It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks
- In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.
- Q:I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.
- check your belt tentioner , ten-shun er. the computer keeps telling me i spelled it wrong
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Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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