• Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate System 1
  • Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate System 2
  • Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate System 3
  • Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate System 4
Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate

Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Description:

  • Processing: Storage Tank, cutting-rolling-welding-polishing-assembling-testing-warehousing

  • Condition: New

  • Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: KUNBO

  • Model Number: bright tank, KB-006

  • Processing Types: Alcohol

  • Voltage: 380V, 50HZ

  • Certification: B&V; CE

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Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate

Specifications


Stainless Steel Insulated Storage Tanks
Company introducationWe Kuangbo is a production enterprise of pharmaceutical, dairy, food and beer-making equipment, alongside biological engineering, chemical containers, and bespoke products. Our products are widely used in beer production, pharmaceuticals, beverage industries, biotechnology and other fields.
Usageit is used for beer storage
Material1.SUS304, 316L
2.jacket: dimple jacket
3.insulation layer: PU
4.as to the thickness, we can make it according to your requirement.
Configuration1.manhole
2.CIP spraying ball
3.adjusting feet
4.sample valve
5.temperature gauge
6.pressure gauge
7.level gauge
Our advantage1.we can supply various kinds of volume, minimum 50L, maximun 10,000L and even larger.
2.PU insulation is adopted
3.interior surface is 3A finish and exterior is 2B finish
4.competitive price and also higher quality tank.
Minimum orderone unit
Payment termT/T or L/C
Packageexport standard package
Marketat home and abroard

 Technical Data:

Stainless Steel Fermenter With CE Certificate

 

 

 

Q:What is a steam boiler ?
oddly enough its a boiler than runs on steam
Q:I have a Procombi boiler and for some weeks now the green light has been flashing intermittently every 0.5 seconds (but working fine). Now however, it is a constant red and fails to work. I suspect this may be an issue with needing to re-pressurise the system (2.3 in the users manual) since the pressure seems low (around 0.3 bar) but I’d like some confirmation of this!Is this something I can sort out easily myself?
You should have a good working understanding of your system before you do anything. It will be worth your money to find and pay someone to help you. You can ask a lot of questions and do it your self next time. If you have say a munchkin boiler do a google search and find a dealer that installs them. You are dealing with pressure, water and air not a good thing. It is great heat when working properly.
Q:how can i tell which relief valve goes with my boiler. i have pics of the plates on the boiler. by the way it is a water baseboard heat. when the system starts running i hear water running though the pipes. i keep letting air out and putting water in the system.
The 'relief' valve is a temperature/pressure safety device, that opens when a given temp or pressure is attained...keeps the system from exploding. These are brass valves with a spring lever on the end; hose bib for outlet. Although you can use it to 'bleed' off air from the boiler using that, some systems will have air gap for the production of steam: if that is your system type. Some systems are not steam, but hot water only. One device that can bleed air automatically is a Taco (brand) air scoop placed in the lines. Floor radiators can also have small bleeder vents; automatic or manual. If you have steam, you should get a qualified boiler man to look at it...very dangerous to have a steam system un-inspected and you not being familiar with it. Pay the bucks to get inspection ask questions as he walks through it so you know what to do and look for, plus what the daily operational procedures are. Write them down, paying special attention to heating season 'fire-up' and verifying all components are safe and operational. When it's shut down time, there likely are steps to take that insure the next fire-up goes smoothly. Refer to your notes to assure you're doing it right each season.
Q:1t / h boiler evaporation is equal to 600,000 kcal
You want to understand this concept, the concept of 1 ton boiler is that the boiler can be an hour to 1 ton of water from the standard state of heating
Q:I have science homework and I'm really stuck please help ?!?!?!
Any boiler works on the same principle and in every boiler only heat energy is wasted .
Q:Problem created by hard water in boiler?
If this is a persistent problem, you could install a water softener.
Q:I have a boiler plus a hot water tank. The pcb on my boiler is bust and I have options:I can replace the pcb for the second time in 6 years at a cost of around ?250, orI can replace the boiler (which is probably not very good and causing the pcb to blow) for a better one and keep the water tank, orI can rip out the whole system, get a combi boiler and also gain some much needed cupboard space. I would love to have a cupboard but will lose water pressure, which at the moment is pretty astounding! Anyone got experience of both these setups? Which would be preferable?Thanks.
although a bit more money, you could replace the boiler with the same (newer model, more efficient) and the hot water cylinder with a pressurised one, that way you will have Amazing hot water pressure still, as it can be installed in loft space as it is fed from cold water mains. combis are good if theirs a large family as you will never be without hot water, the pressure will be reasonable but not as good as pressurised cylinder
Q:how do you bleed the boiler?
To properly bleed a boiler takes time and Patience. Your boiler should have an auto fill valve to let water in. Hopefully you also have boiler drains on each zone. These drains will have a connection to hook up a garden hose. Direct the garden hose to a drain in the floor, or somewhere that will get rid of the water. Caution, this water is not only hot(180-200 Degrees) but can be very black as well, so choose carefully were you drain to. Turn one of your t-stats up so the zone you are working on comes on, you can feel the hot water by placing your hand on the pipe, again be care full, it is very hot. if the zone is open but not flowing, slowly opening the drain should push the air lock through. do not open or drain the zone to quick, you do not want to let the boiler go dry, bad things happen then. When you feel the hot water come back to the boiler through the pipe you know you have flow. You can hear the air in the pipes as it circulates and open the drain slowly to purge the air out. You need to do this to each and every zone in the system. It is advisable to have an experienced HVAC tech. do this if you are not comfortable, and watch him, ask questions. This is your system, you should know how and why it works. Good luck.
Q:How can I tell if a boiler is a hot water or steam boiler?For example:Is the piping different? What will the temp gauges say for each? Are the fittings different? Will there be different clues at the AHU coils? What are the clues.
If you have a steam boiler there will be a glass tube [sight glass] on the side of the boiler that is there to check the water level in the boiler.The water will be approximately half way up the tube.A steam boiler requires space above the water for the steam.A water boiler[hydronic heater] will not have this sight glass.There will also be a circulator on a hydronic boiler to move the water around,however a steam boiler may have a circulator added on to the lower piping to utilize the hot water in the bottom of the boiler instead of steam for a heat zone.This is rare but I have seen it done so the sight glass will be the best clue.Many of the controls will also be different but it would be difficult to explain all the differences here.
Q:How do boiler make turbine run?
Boiler turn water into steam. Steam expands to greater volume than water. As steam expands... steam turns turbine. Turbine turns shaft that is connected to Faraday Induction motor PV=nRt Notice that PV has units of Work. :)

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