SLOW UL listed split casing fire pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

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Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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This series pump is of an horizontal and split type, with both pump casing and cover split at the central line of the shaft,both water inlet and outlet and the pump casing cast integrally,
a wearable ring set in between the handwheel and the pump casing, the impeller axially fixed upon an elastic baffle ring and the mechanical seal directly mounted on the shaft, without
a muff, greatly lowering the work of repair. The shaft is made of stainless steel or the 40Cr-plated, the packing sealing structure is set with a muff to prevent the shaft from worn-out,
the bearings are an opened-ball bearing and a round-post roller bearing and axially fixed upon a baffle ring, there is no thread and nut on the shaft of single-stage double-suction pump so
the moving direction of the pump can be changed at will without need to replace it and the impeller is made of copper.
Pump outlet diameter: 80~250mm
Capacity: 345L/s
Pressure: 3MPa
Temperature: normal temperature:normal temperature
Medium: pure water and similar to that of pure water

Q:Hello, I have a 1996 Cavalier and it's got a small coolant leak by the water pump so I figured I'd replace it. I called around a little bit and one quote was $250. I'm sord of handy and have a few hours on Saturday is it that hard? I heard it's just a few bolts? Thanks!!: Look in a good auto repair manual like Chiltons. The library gets them, if you don't want to buy one. Make sure there aren't any special proceedures or cautions. Clean the area and examine it well to make sure of what actually is leaking. Commonly a worn out water pump will leak through a weephole in its shaft housing where the shaft seal is- or was. Pay attention to the lengths of the bolts and if they are different sizes, be sure they go back in the right place. If the engine needs to have air bled out when refilled with coolant, read up on how to do that and execute that correctly.

Q:Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?: yes..very well maybe waterpump. i sugest you check,and change pump,timing belt,belt tensioner and idler as well..

Q:I just replaced my water pump.fixed.. A week later I've been noticing he might of over filled it because.were the coolant goes.steam comes.out.the little.while plus water.. And.before.I.started my.car I noticed.it was all empty now and my.engine sounds like a mini diesel when it runs.. What's the deal? And I.already filled it up with coolant again: Anytime you replace your water pump. You should replace the thermostat and gasket. Also check the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if either one of them are collapsed.It wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap.

Q:I need to install water pump and need to know the cost already purchase pump: Same labor as timing belt replacement, which you may want to have done at the same time. Probably 6 to 9 hours.

Q:how do I know my water pump failed. 98 mustang V6 started to leak coolant from the front lower part of the the engine. How do I know for sure my pump is bad? Did refill and kept on leaking as I manage to get home. Little help please!: I count on he didn't disassemble the engine. Clearly this failure used to be from lack of good storage tactics. Lack of use is much worse than heavy use. I seen few outboards worn out, they're neglected to death. Having said that examine out my answer to a similar question today. Yes, failure of the water pump can contribute to this failure but a unfastened spark plug would not. The water pump should be replaced once per 12 months, or now not longer than two seasons, in spite of use. They take a suite because of age, and can fail with out warning. Whilst the first mechanic has some responsibility, I think you need to take the lions share. See owners handbook on storage tactics. Sorry!!!!!!

Q:Hi,My problem is of this automatic water pump ,it is disrupt always I don't no why..I also want to knew what is the function of the pressure air tank??? The picture is here:: WHAT does it is disrupt always really MEAN?? OK, that said... pumps such as this work to maintain a pressure with two set points even though the regulator only has one indicated.. The lower set point which as pressure drops, the pump turns on, and the upper set point where when the pressure rises to that point, the pump shuts off. When the pressure drops to the lower set point, it triggers the pump to run. When the pressure rises to the upper set point, the pump turns off. If the set point is 50 pounds, it may turn on at 47 and off at 53, or the window could be smaller and on at 49 and off at 51. The air bladder works as a shock absorber, just as the shocks work in your car to smooth the ride. When the pump turns ON there is a pressure pulse that without the air space, would promptly turn the pump off again. This is called short cycling and will cause your pump to on-off-on-off-on-off rapidly. The solution is to refill the air bladder. People with well pumps instead of city water have this problem frequently as the air bladder loses the bubble and does not work as a spring or shock absorber. I have city water NOW, but I used to use a well (which is still operational if I choose to use it) and I experienced pump short cycling the very first year I bought the house. The thing IS, I was ignorant. I missed the thing about a well and a septic tank that also uses a pump to an above ground drain field. YES. I was STUPID because I had NOT paid attention. NOW, years later, I have learned, the HARD way mind you, how these sanitary systems WORK in real life in RURAL America....

Q:About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise coming from my bathroom that sounded like loud humming every 3 or 4 seconds after I would turn on the water or flush the toilet. I noticed that when this noise happened the water pressure would increase and then it would go back to normal. Then the noise started to get louder. Last night while my husband was taking a shower the water lost pressure and then completely turned off. Now I have no water at all whatsoever except for maybe a few drops when I turn the faucet on. I have a private well and when I bought the house I was told that the well is underneath one of my bedrooms because the house was built on to and they built over the well. I know I can get to the pump from the crawl space. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what it might be or maybe even how much it could cost to fix?: sounds like a vacum valve problem you need a plumber or a pump person does not sound like a good job for a dyi.

Q:Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!: I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

Q:Was able to remove all bolts except the one in the rear of engine one of the bigger bolts the pulley from the serpentine belt blocks itdoes the pulley need to be removed and if yes then how: Sometimes there are holes in the pulley and you can rotate it until the hole gives you access to the bolt. If there are no such holes, then you will probably have to remove the pulley. The pulley may be fastened with one, four, or zero bolts. If there are bolts for the pulley, remove them and proceed with common sense and use a puller if necessary. If there are zero bolts holding the pulley to the water pump, then it is pressed on and you will need to remove it with a specialty tool called a pulley puller which you can get as a loaner or cheap rental at many auto parts stores. The pulley must also be reinstalled with a pulley installer, also available as a loaner or cheap rental. Are you replacing the water pump or just removing it to do other work? If you look at a new one and it doesn't come with a pulley on it, then you know that the pulley must be removed to go on the new pump no matter what.

Q:It is used in a water pumping station.: What Is A Submersible

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