Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Product Description:

Introductio  of Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump 
The pump mounting meeting ISO2858; Design pressure up to 1.6MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; The key wet parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloyetc. The motor and pump share one shaft., high efficiency, good balance.


Advantage of Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump

Quick mantainance
Higher Efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Save Installation Space
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure
Easy installation pipeline, Suction and Discharge in one line


Technical data of Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump

Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN25 upto DN450
Capacity: Q: 3.8-2850m3/h
Head: H: 8-162m
Max Working Pressure: 1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction: From the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW
Solid Grainn: Less than 80mg/L


Model meaning of Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump

SBL 100/315
SBL SBL Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump
100 - Suction Diameter (mm)
315 Impeller Diameter Normal size 315mm
A- Impeller Trimmed Code
Applications
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as: Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC; Oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smeltingetc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, power plant, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment.

FAQ of Single Stage Single Suction Inline Centrifugal Pump

1. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

2. Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

3. Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

4. If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

5. Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

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Q:can i drive my car to a service center 5 miles with a blown water pump?
Absolutely not. You'll most likely end up blowing the radiator. A great amount of pressure can/will be built up in the radiator and that's not good. I had the water pump go out in my Mazda MPV and didn't know it. I was going up the expressway and just so happened to notice that my temperature gauge was in the red and then I heard a pop and water and steam came shooting up from underneath the hood. You can usually only go about a 1/4 to 1/2 mile with a blown water pump. You'll have to get it towed.
Q:2004 chevy impala leaking antifreeze behind pulley of water pump?
water pump seal is bad. it will get worse. just replace the water pump now and save yourself future problems. like losing all your water and over heating your engine. you need a new water pump.
Q:i have a montgomery ward sea king 5 hp outboard and need a water pump?
The water pump is simply an impeller -- it's a tube of rubber which spins as the power shaft spins, and the tube has fins which push water through the engine to cool it. Take the old one to a boat store, and you will find one close enough. They aren't finicky, they just want water pushed through them.
Q:on changing a '86 volvo 240 water pump?
The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.
Q:Boat won't pump water.?
only replace the water impellor and housing -do no longer replace and hoses or tubes till you ought to. If the undertaking remains there after then inspect hoses. does the engine over warmth or is the water tension only low? despite if it is barely low then you definately have not have been given a blockage interior the engine possibly only the piss hose. ninety 9% hazard the recent impellor will fix it..do nto make greater artwork for your self.
Q:How do you know your water pump is bad?
That's what happens to water pumps, they start leaking and you loose coolant. When the gauge started acting weird that should have been your first clue. Unless you or someone you know can replace the pump you will need to take it to a mechanic. When you said it would not crank, did you mean the engine is seized up or just would not start, there is a difference.
Q:Do you need to replace the water pump on your car when replacing the water pump gasket?
When asking questions of this type, include the year make and model of the car. There's no reason on earth to replace a water-pump when all you need are the mating gaskets from pump to cylinder head or heads. Water-pumps don't have to be replaced until the weep-hole leeks coolant under the input shaft. Of all the things you had done, the water-pump is the first and easiest thing to be removed and replaced when and if the time comes.
Q:What are submersible water pumps?
Submersible pumps are among the pumps used for pumping liquids from a sump or reservoir at low level. The non-submersible pumps are placed above the the liquid level. Submersible pumps are immersed in the liquid in the sump. The submersible pumps have positive suction head while the submersible pumps have negative suction head.
Q:1976 chevy c10 pickup truck inline 6 water pump direction?
I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
Q:Which water pump set has more vertical suction / lift.?
The first one appears to have a higher flow rating but neither gives a head figure, which is the maximum height it can work to above the pump. Lift from below a pump is limited to 32ft on any form of water pump; that is the limit water will rise to with a total vacuum above it. A normal pump cannot pull a perfect vacuum so working lift will be somewhat less. The practical limit depends on the pump head in use and it's actual head limit; the total height from the pickup point to the delivery point count as working head. Any kind of centrifugal pump or one which cannot also pump air perfectly will need a foot valve at the base of the inlet pipe and a priming system to fill the pipe and pump body with water before the pump is started. If you expect the water level to be more than 10 - 15ft down, you would be better off with a submersible pump; the only limit then is the head rating which can be just about anything. Get a suitably rated petrol or diesel generator as well (3x the pump power rating) if it must operate independently of mains power.

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