Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

Single core for low smoke, non-halogen flame retardant

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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The low smoke non-halogen single core wire is manufactured according to the standards of GB/T5023-2008, GB/T19666-2005, GB/T17650-1998, GB/T17651-1998, GB/T18380-2001 and the design and manufacture.

Single core low smoke halogen flame retardant wire and cable is mainly used for engineering and construction, subway, nuclear power plants ,as well as crowded places the integrated wiring, and electrical equipment within the power and signal connections.

Type

Designation

Alternative Model

WDZD-RY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RE

WDZD-BY

The low smoke non-halogen polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BE

WDZD-RYJ

The low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring with soft wire

ZR/DW-RYJ

WDZD-BYJ

For low smoke, non-halogen crosslinking polyolefin insulation flame retardant D class fixed wiring

ZR/DW-BYJ

Note: If is class B, C flame retardant, as long as the replacement in the corresponding model D is B, C, can be.

Type	Specifications mm²	Conductor		Nominal thickness			Outer diameter
Type	Specifications mm²	n/mm	Outer Diameter	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV	300/500V	450/750V	0.6/1kV
WDZD-RY WDZD-RYJ	0.5	16/0.20	0.92	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.12	2.32	2.52
	0.75	24/0.20	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1	32/0.20	1.31	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.51	2.71	2.91
	1.5	30/0.25	1.58	-	0.7	0.8		2.98	3.18
	2.5	49/0.25	2.02	-	0.8	0.9		3.62	3.82
	4	56/0.30	2.59	-	0.8	0.9		4.19	4.39
	6	84/0.30	3.60	-	0.8	1.0		5.20	5.60
	10	84/0.40	4.80	-	0.8	1.0		6.40	6.80
	16	126/0.40	5.88	-	1.0	1.2		7.88	8.28
	25	196/0.40	7.33	-	1.2	1.4		9.73	10.13
	35	276/0.40	9.20	-	1.2	1.4		11.60	12.00
	50	396/0.40	11.02	-	1.4	1.6		13.82	14.22
	70	360/0.50	13.13	-	1.4	1.6		15.93	16.33
WDZD-BY WDZD-BYJ	0.5	1/0.80	0.80	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.00	2.20	2.40
	0.75	1/0.97	0.97	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.17	2.37	2.57
	1	1/1.13	1.13	0.6	0.7	0.8	2.33	2.53	2.73
	1.5	1/1.37	1.38	-	0.7	0.8		2.78	2.98
	2.5	1/1.76	1.76	-	0.8	0.9		3.36	3.56
	4	1/2.24	2.25	-	0.8	0.9		3.85	4.05
	6	1/2.73	2.76	-	0.8	1.0		4.36	4.76
	10	7/1.33	4.05	-	0.8	1.0		5.65	6.05
	16	7/1.70	5.10	-	1.0	1.2		7.10	7.50
	25	7/2.12	6.42	-	1.2	1.4		8.82	9.22
	35	7/2.50	7.56	-	1.2	1.4		9.96	10.36
	50	19/1.78	8.90	-	1.4	1.6		11.70	12.10
	70	19/2.12	10.70	-	1.4	1.6		13.50	13.90

Q:what does it mean by 4 core cable, 35 mm. can it be used for DC and AC as well. can it be used for a 3 phase AC. what are its advantages and disadvantages? is one core means one phase? can we use 2 core cable for 3 phase AC? am really confused please explain.: 4 Core Cable

Q:I have an internal SATA drive that im looking to access through my laptops eSata (external SATA) port. Im buying the cable required for this but im curious after I make the connection is there a separate cable i need to provide power to the hardrive?Or does the sata to esata cable provide power to the internal drive: An okorder / Yes you do need a separate power cable for any SATA devices, but that enclosure uses a small controller board to make a single cable design possible.

Q:I'm installing my car audio system in the morning. I have a 650w 4 channel amp for my four interior speakers and a class D monoblock amp for my sub.I have an 8awg wiring kit. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps. Is this thick enough for my setup?: 1. We can't answer without knowing more about your amplifiers. 650w 4 channel doesn't tell us anything useful, because the power rating may be a peak number that's only good for marketing, and you didn't tell us anything about the monoblock amplifier at all. Give us brand and model numbers and we might be able to help. 2. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps ....no. That's now how it works. (I'm not sure how you envision splitting the wire to make two wires that are half the size; are you cutting it down the middle with a razor?) You can use a distribution block to connect both amplifiers to the same main power wire, but you don't have to go to a smaller wire out of the d-block: you can run 8-gauge wire from the battery to the distribution block, then more 8-gauge from the d-block to each amp. 3. Even if you did cut the 8-gauge wire in half, a wire half the size of 8-gauge isn't 16-gauge. It's 11-gauge. If you put six 16-gauge wires together, you'd get a wire that's a little smaller than 8-gauge. Please edit your question with the brand and model numbers of both amplifier, along with the estimated length of the wire run (ie, how many feet of wire do you need to go between the amps and the battery?) Then we can tell you what gauge wire you need. Edit: thanks for the update. Based on the information about your amplifiers, I don't think you should run both of them from the single 8-gauge wire. I'd switch to a 4-gauge dual amp kit, or you can buy a second 8-gauge kit and run each amp with its own power wire to the battery rather than sharing a single wire.

Q:What is the best tool or method in your opinion to locate cable damage causing current leak on several cables supplying outdoor lighting as detected by a tripping GFCI breaker. (Or water in a light obviously). Is there a meter that can measure that directly with the power off?: Ohm meter, to detect foreign ground on the wires or the fixture. Water on the line or the fixture will show up as a high resistance ground, versus a good ground.

Q:My laptop cable sometimes won't stay in all the time. When it is connected, it has a blue circle around it, but sometimes that blue circle goes off (while it is plugged into the side of laptop) and the tool bar changes from showing a plug to showing a battery. Would there be something wrong with the cable line and it needs to be replaced?: the power plug is damaged and will have to be replaced the cost about 90 to 125 dollars. look at it and make sure if it is the plug or the socket

Q:i have a sata hard drive that i wont to put in an older mb. i purchased an adpater but i do not know what the larger sata cable if for. there is no place to put it.: One cable is the power cable and one is the data cable, just like IDE drives have two cables for the same purpose. You will need to have a 4-pin molex to SATA power cable connector and also a hard drive controller card with a SATA port on it for you to be able to connect the drive. If you don't have both of these, you won'e be able to hook up the drive at all.

Q:Just wondering if the eVGA GT 440 graphics/video card needs a power cable connect from the psu to it.I bought a PC pre-made from JB HI-FI and going to upgrade my graphics card. The one I have currently is the Radeon HD 4650 and it appears to have no cable connecting to it. There are however, some cables connecting to the motherboard near it.: No, it doesn't need one, but it's also a crappy purchase. The Radeon 6670 costs about the same, doesn't require external power, and slaps the GT 440 silly.

Q:I am trying to find a 4 Pin Fan Power Splitter Cable or my computer since I only have 1 4 Pin Fan Power jack and I want to use 2 4 pin fans. I am having a really hard time trying to find one in hamilton: Before hooking that up, check the specs on your motherboard to see if that fan header will support loads from both fans. You may need to get a Molex to 4-pin converter and power directly off your power supply.

Q:The other day I found an imac g5 17computer in my alley. It probably doesn't work but I was just curious about what cables/accessories I need for it. All that was out there was the actual monitor/desktop. There were no cables with it. (By the way if you can't tell I am not experienced with computers)Thanks any info is appreciated!: Power cable, USB keyboard, USB mouse. That's it. Find a power cable (any old computer power cable will work) and see if it even powers on and does anything first. Crack it open. Set it on its face, then undo the three screws across the bottom. They do NOT come out. They only loosen up until you can't turn them anymore. The back pops off. Look for any swollen or leaking capacitors. If you find any, then it's junk. If you don't, then see if there's any RAM in it. If not, toss some PC3200 DDR RAM in there and see if you get anything.

Q:im selling just the brick power cable. Is 50 dollars a good price?: most people who have a xbox, have a power bar, 50$ is way to much like above i would go for 15-30 30$ if you are lucky

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