• Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low System 1
  • Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low System 2
  • Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low System 3
Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low

Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low

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1. Description of Rubber:

Natural rubber is a kind of polyisoprene as the main component of natural high molecular compound, its composition in 91% ~ 94% is the rubber hydrocarbon(polyisoprene), the protein, fatty acid, carbohydrate, ash and other non rubber substance. Natural rubber is the most widely used general rubber..

 

2. Main features of Oil Seal:

1) High Elasticity, According To The Formula, The Elastic Can Reach 80% Of The Maximum.

2) High Elongation, The Maximum Can Reach More Than 1000%.

3) The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low, Than Some Rigid Substances Such As Iron And Steel And Other Low Much.

4) Cold Resistant, The Glass Transition Temperature Of Minus 72 Degrees

 

3. Rubber Images:

 Shock Absorber - Isolation Block The Elastic Modulus And The Shear Modulus Is Low

 

4. Rubber Application:

Rubber elasticity, good insulation, impermeability and plasticity characteristics of natural rubber, and through the mix after appropriate treatment also has oil resistance, acid and alkali resistance, heat resistance, cold resistance, pressure resistance, wear resistance and other properties, therefore, has the widespread use, mainly used for automobile, machinery, industrial etc. industry as a shock, sealing parts.

5. FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely 

How about your company

A world class manufacturer & supplier of Rubber is one of the large scale professional investment casting production bases in China,consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 8000 tons Precision casting and forging parts are exported to markets in Europe,America and Japan. OEM casting and forging service available according to customer’s requirement.

How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management system every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

 


Q:i have a 1984 chevrolet scottsdale and it has the stock 10 bolt rear end with 8.5 and i have a 6 inch lift on it and 35 inch tires i want to change out the rear axle but not sure what to get because i have the dana 44 in the front so what would be the best 1 ton or 3/4 ton axle for it could i leave the front axle a 1/2 ton and the rear a 1 or 3/4 ton? i do not really want to go full floater either wanting to buy at local junk yard give me some ideas and i my buddy told me ihave to get the same gearing or i will mess my truck up.thanks
Dudehow many times you gonna post the same question? GET A 14 BOLT, FULL OR SEMI FLOAT. They came in Millions of GM trucks shouldn't cost more than $200 from a junkyard. A half ton axle usually had 6 lug studs, a 3/4 1 ton has 8 studs. What wheels do you have? YES, you need to get a axle with the same gear ratio as the front! So why exactly do you want to change the rear axle?? If you are off roading it, just pound it 'til it breaks. If you are not abusing it, there is no real reason to change axles, as there is nothing wrong with a rear 10 bolt for the street. Also, it sounds like you need to do some more research on this stuff. There is a lot more maintanance on a lifted truck with 35's : U-joints especially. It gets real expensive if you plan on using it off road have to pay to fix it if it breaks.
Q:Our 2004 Ford Freestar van‘s Transaxle light came on when me and mom were driving home.What could be wrong with our van?What is Trans Axle?
trans axle is the transmission. might be low on fluid. check that first if it is low ad some. if the fluid is watery and brown in color it needs changed. take it to a shop and have the filter changed and lines flushed. should be around 120 dollars.
Q:A counterwight of mass m 4.00 kg is attached to a light cord that is wound around a pulley. The pulley is a thing hoop of radius R8.00 cm and mass M 2.00 kg. The spoke have negligible mass. a) What is the magnitude of the net torque on the system about the axle of the pulley?b) When the counterweight has a speed v, the pulley has an angular speed wv/R. . Determine the magnitude of the total angular momentum of the system about the axle of the pulley.c) Using the result from part b. and torquedL/dt, calculate the acceleration of the counterweight.
a) Torques on the axle 4 * 9.81 * 0.08 m-N 3.1392 m-N. b) Angular momentum of the system angular momentum of the counterweight + angular momentum of the pulley L [4 * w * (0.08)^2] + [2 * (0.08)^2 w] 0.0384 w kgm^2/s c) Torque dL/dt 3.1392 d/dt (0.0384 w) dw/dt 3.1392/0.0384 rad/s^2 angular acceleration, dw/dt 81.75 rad/s^2 acceleration of the counterweight dw/dt * R 81.75 * 0.08 m/s^2 6.54 m/s^2.
Q:I‘ve called all the local junk yards and been checking on the internet to no avail. I need the axle and axle shaft. If you look at my tuck from the front. it looks like it‘s smiling at you.
Morrison Auto Parts. 512-472-5302 Fax 512-376-2128. I got complete left rear suspension for 98 Lumina for $100 bucks. Their very nice people to deal with.
Q:Hello out there, quick question for those mechanics out there. I was told today that I need to get both front axles replaced today and was quoted ($300-400, $125 for the part and $40hr for the labor) an amount that when discussed with family said was to high they (my two uncles) told me they were able to get the parts for $60 for both. Although Im not begrudging the labor fee, I do want to know what is the norm for getting this kind of work done on a car? Any helpful opinions would be welcomed. Thank you.
Two rebuilt axles $85 each Cash and carry from axle shop in the Yellow pages. Then replace both 3 to 4 hours at the shops labor rate. If uncle George and Fred has a 36mm socket and 2 -1/4 inch socket and 17mm socket and 19mm socket enlist his lazy ***! To help you. Have Uncle George and Fred put the axles in! I can say from personal experence the Altima Has two different types of axles depending on the type of differential is inside your transmission Viscus or open differential once that is determined carry on with the axle change
Q:How do i change out my cv axles on my 1992 mitsubishi 3000 gt?
They are fairly easy. You will need to take off the tire. You will then need to remove the 2 bolts on the back of the strut behind the brake rotor. There sometimes are some small bolts holding it into the transmission that need to come out. You'll see pretty easily once you get the tire off what needs to come off. Be ready for some tranny fluid to come out if it is not empty. You can buy a service manual at a parts store for the 3000gt or the stealth for around 20.00 and it is a good investment. It will have step by step instructions and photos.
Q:I need a diagram so he can finish changing the rear seals
placed up year mileage. this is towed on a flatbed. They'l merely drag it on or placed dollies decrease than the motionless wheels. you ought to take the rear wheels off for a greater advantageous view. be careful jacking.
Q:I want a straight axle Toyota but i want to be able to drive it on the highway as well
they both go in the same spot it just that CAI is a little longer, the SRI does take in hotter air just because it takes in air from the engine compartment and the CAI takes air in form under the engine compartment. the CAI will produce more power but with the SRI the power will increase in power will come at lower RPM's where the CAI will come higher in RPM's. i would just get which ever one fits your driving style the best
Q:I‘m looking to buy some used dana axles for my 1990 Chevy k1500 (44 in the front 60 in the rear or 60 all the way around?) I was also wondering what type of appropriate questions I should ask regarding the axles as well as what to look for when inspecting them. What should I ask for that typically comes with axles, i.e parts and etc.? I believe I want the gearing to be 4.10. Any other ideal recommendations for that specific year that would be appreciated. A good website would be useful, but many seem to be for jeeps and other vehicles. Thanks
Just run a 14-Bolt Full Floater from a 3/4 or 1-ton GM truck/van/suv. It is comparable to the Sterling 10.25 (used in single wheel apps for Ford), or any other 1-ton rear axle for that matter. The 14B is almost a direct bolt in. It has a longer 3rd member, but since your going to get a few inches of lift by doing the solid axle swap, you may not need to cut down your drive shaft (just depends on lift height). You will need a conversion u-joint to mate your current drive shaft to the 14BFF yoke. I can't remember the part # at this time, but it can be picked up at most auto parts stores! For the front, I would run the D60 unless you get a smokin buy on a D44. It really depends on how hard you plan on wheeling the truck. A D44 will last just fine on 38 or less with mild power for most drivers. Pull the front axle from a Ford older than a 1998 (they went to a goofy lug spacing with the body style change). You could also use a CAD axle from a Dodge ('94 and newer) if the price is right, but then you have all the 4-link stuff to either cut off, or try to use it and run links versus leafs. Let your tire size determine your axle ratio. Of course it would be great to get the 4.10 ratio and hopefully be able to stay with it. If your gonna run over 35, don't even worry about the axle ratio, because a lower ratio should be on you purchase list! When purchasing an axle, inspect the gears (pull the cover), inspect the carrier, any blown seals, any cracks in the tubing where it meets the differential or at the knuckle, large amounts of rust, any rust or slop. Unless the axle is pulled from a recently wrecked daily driver, I would be rebuilding the axles; all new seals, balljoints, ect. Try to buy the axle with all of the steering linkage, the spindles, brake calipers and rotors, ect. This will make your SAS a whole lot easier, even if you need to purchase new parts.
Q:I‘m wondering if this is normal or are the CV joints worn out. The boots are torn for who knows how long. Anyhow the whole axle moves/slides back and forth between the tire and transmission. It is tight front to back. Seems like a lot of play. Is this normal??
This is Normal. You have to have some end play so that when your wheel goes up and down with the bumps the shaft can lengthen and shorten to need. Think about this: If you are standing arms length from a wall and you can barely touch the wall from where you are standing with the tip of your longest middle finger, then you raise your arm up without leaning closer to the wall you will produce a gap between your finger and that wall effectively shortening the length of your arm relative to the wall. When and axle does the same thing with relation to the wheel and suspension moving up and down in relation to the transmission its connected to, the only way to keep them from pulling apart and disconnecting from either the wheel or transmission is to have a telescopic or lengthening shaft! And of course the same if the wheel (or your arm) moves downward. The end-play is actually manufactured into one of the cv joints usually the inner one for this reason. The axle is not bad for this reason. The boots should be replaced for further extended life as long as the axles don't make a repeated repetitious clicking sound w/turning sharp and accelerating Hope this helps.

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