Q:I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why? Problems started when our car overheated due to neglecting to refill the coolant a while back. The coolant tank got cracks in it and we had to replace it- but now the water pump is leaking, says my husband- should we just replace the water pump or could this be a bigger problem? Why is it leaking all of a sudden now? (please no snarky rude answers , I'm looking for help not to be scolded! Yes we neglected to add more coolant-- damage is already done so don't bother making a ridiculous comment about it!)Thanks!

A leaky pump usually means that it has gone bad. Water pumps are not designed to last forever. If your water pump is leaking after it has been on your car for a while replace it weather it is causing your car to run hot or not. Not replacing it will only lead to more costly problems because it will only continue to get worse over time. It might be a good idea to have your engine pressure tested to insure that you haven't caused any major engine damage from overheating while only replacing your water pump will seal the pressure in the system and showing any major defects such as a blown head gasket. You should also preform a check of your other coolant system components such as your fan(s), thermostat, hoses, radiator, heater valve, belts, and recheck the reservoir. Good luck.

Q:Trying to replace my water pump and was told labor would cost $90 for an 06 impala 3.9L I don't know if it's reasonable for the amount of work.

way too cheap , they are obviously going to stack the price on extras and ancillaries, belts, coolant, thermostat etc

Q:Hi,My problem is of this automatic water pump ,it is disrupt always I don't no why..I also want to knew what is the function of the pressure air tank??? The picture is here:

WHAT does it is disrupt always really MEAN?? OK, that said... pumps such as this work to maintain a pressure with two set points even though the regulator only has one indicated.. The lower set point which as pressure drops, the pump turns on, and the upper set point where when the pressure rises to that point, the pump shuts off. When the pressure drops to the lower set point, it triggers the pump to run. When the pressure rises to the upper set point, the pump turns off. If the set point is 50 pounds, it may turn on at 47 and off at 53, or the window could be smaller and on at 49 and off at 51. The air bladder works as a shock absorber, just as the shocks work in your car to smooth the ride. When the pump turns ON there is a pressure pulse that without the air space, would promptly turn the pump off again. This is called short cycling and will cause your pump to on-off-on-off-on-off rapidly. The solution is to refill the air bladder. People with well pumps instead of city water have this problem frequently as the air bladder loses the bubble and does not work as a spring or shock absorber. I have city water NOW, but I used to use a well (which is still operational if I choose to use it) and I experienced pump short cycling the very first year I bought the house. The thing IS, I was ignorant. I missed the thing about a well and a septic tank that also uses a pump to an above ground drain field. YES. I was STUPID because I had NOT paid attention. NOW, years later, I have learned, the HARD way mind you, how these sanitary systems WORK in real life in RURAL America....

Q:I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!

Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.

Q:I would like to ask, the pump power and flow, there is no formula can be converted? For example, the flow of 9000 tons / hour, then how many units to accompany, how many kilowatts of water pump?

Pump shaft power (kw) = water supply (L / s) x lift (m) /102 * efficiency = flow * lift * density * acceleration of gravity.Explanation:102 is the unit collation constant.Pump effective power / pump shaft power = pump efficiency (general 50%--90%, large pump higher)Unit time pump liquid volume flow is, flow by Q, a unit of measure: m3 / h (m3/h), L / S (l/s), L/s=3.6 m3/h=0.06 m3/min=60L/minG=Q G refers to weight - liquid proportionThe energy obtained by pumping a liquid of a unit weight is called a lift. The pump head, including suction stroke, is approximately the difference between the pump outlet and inlet pressure. The lift is expressed in H, and the unit is m.The efficiency of a pump is the ratio of the effective power to the axial power of the pump. ETA =Pe/P pump power usually refers to the input power, the motive power to the pump shaft, it is also called the shaft power, denoted by P. Effective power is the product of pump head and mass flow and gravity acceleration

Q:Do you need a stop valve for the pump at home?

Pump used at home do not take the water stop valve, the water level is too low, it can not pump up. In addition, there is no stop valve, not immediately pumping water, will have to wait a short time.The valve is actually a floating ball valve, when water is accumulated to a certain height, the float top, open the valve linkage; row water, reduce the water level, the valve is automatically closed, it realizes automatic drainage to steam pipeline.

Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)

nicely, you probably did numerous sturdy issues, yet there is something incorrect with your rigidity cap. it rather is what controls the rigidity on your gadget, until eventually you have a leak some the place. it would additionally be the reason on your overheating, because of the fact after it gets warm it somewhat is going to easily blow the water out of your cap. automobiles are made to run at or close to the boiling element. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water interior the gadget. automobiles want severe temperature to help in burning the gas thoroughly. it rather is ordinary for you vehicle to get some ranges warmer than your thermostat putting. you basically have been given to get a cap and verify the neck of the radiator. You gotta carry that rigidity.

Q:we are trying to replace a water pump on our ford windstar mini van. my uncle cant figure it out and we can not get a manual until tomorrow. was wondering if anyone knew how. thanks

96 Ford Windstar

Q:Van died on the road. It wants to turn over, but it won't start. I had it towed to Firestone. They're telling me that it needs a whole list of stuff. I ask them, quot;What does it need to just get it running?They say, quot;A new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush.quot;If the timing belt is indeed broken, I know that it will need to be replaced. And, probably the water pump, too. But, what is the importance of the thermostat and coolant flush? Will the car not run if I don't have a thermostat? Can't I just put Engine Coolant in and not have to quot;flushwhatever is supposed to be flushed?Thank you in advance for your help.

It sounds to me like the water pump broke apart, and destroyed the timing belt. The thermostat has wax inside it to control when it opens and closes, so if it overheated there's a good chance the wax leaked out, and the thermostat will no longer open when it should, causing further overheating. As for the flush, they probably want to make sure there are no broken pieces of water pump in there that will cause further damage. As for having your vehicle serviced by Firestone. Ugh:-( I too would be worried about valve to piston contact when the belt broke, but I'm not sure offhand if that's an interference engine or not. I do however know (slightly off topic), from my time as a Dodge tech, that they had a silent recall on the 3.0L heads: If they happened to have them off for any reason, they would cut a small groove in the top of the valve guides with a special tool, and install a snap ring to prevent the guides from sliding down into the runners.

Q:I have two water well good water but not a lot of water .is it possible to hook two pumps up to one holding tank . if so how do I hook them up

Not sure I quite understand the question completely, but here goes. If you have one well of sufficient pipe size, usually no less than 1 1/2 coming up out of the ground, and a standard 1/2 - 3/4 hp pump won't pump much water out of the well, then the point is probably partially plugged with lime and crud. If that's the case, you can try putting muratic acid down the pipe, let it set for a day and then hook the pump back up and pump water for a couple hours out of the well. Or you can try shooting a 22 rifle down the pipe, sometimes the concussion of the bullet hitting the water is enough to push enough of the junk off the screen to allow a decent flow for a while. Or you can do the proper thing and have the point pulled and replaced, (you can do it yourself with a decent bumper jack and a well dri ver). Good luck