• Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device System 1
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Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice

Item:
Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device 


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device



Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device




Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device


Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

 Pictures Show

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device



 


 Trading market

Sewage Submersible Pump With Coupling Device

Transportation

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Q:As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.
Q:My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.
not a good idea, find the bad part first, could be < idler pulley, tension, power steering pulley, air conditioner compressor pulley ( if it has air ) , alternator besides that, there ain't any CHEAP belts that i know of
Q:Hello,I have a Kia Spectra, 4 doors, automatic, 1.8, 2002, 64000 miles, and the alternator belt just broke. It seems that there is a chance that the water pump was lost on the process.I looked on line and to buy from the dealership, these pieces together would cost me around $70.What would it be a fair price for the service? (thinking that I was unlucky enough to lose the water pump?How do I know if my water pump is good and they are only changing it to make me spend more money???I am a girl (foreign student), and don't understand of car, or know any repair shop that could take care of that...Thanks!!!
Most shops are going to charge 2 hours labor to change the water pump, so if their labor rate is $55/hr, you will be looking at $110+ the cost of the belt water pump and coolant. Knowing that information, probably $225 would be a normal charge.Good Luck.
Q:The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
Think about the engine timing, its the most important. If you put the timing belt back in at wrong timing it'll be a big problem.
Q:took car to meachanic on a friday drove home . mecahnic put in timing belt engine coolant water pump car on sunday leaking alot of green fluid and smoke coming from hood
What kinda car is it? I bet you they didn't clean and replace the o-ring in the area where the back of the water pump connects to the cross-over pipe. The area is usually neglected and it'll cause a leak that will run across the LIM onto the top of the bell housing.
Q:Hoping that someone may read this.Broke down yesterday after re-filling coolant when car re-heated and mechanic who rescued us advised that the water pump is leaking and requires replacement.Our local garage have advised that to change the water pump also requires a new camber (?) kit and including both and 3.5 hours labour their total quote is ?315.08.This sounds crazy for changing a water pump - can anyone shed any light and reckon that they may be taking the mickey?Am not technical so wouldn't attempt to do work myself, however if we go back to garage, or to others, I'd like to know exactly what work needs doing.Thanks!
well you will need a new pump, but im wondering why they are advising you to get a camber kit. camber kits are for the slant of how your wheels touch the ground i.e When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint. A camber kit is not usually required for this because replacing the faulty part and realignment generally pulls everything into spec. One time a camber kit will be needed for positive camber is when the vehicles ride height is raised. When it is raised, it puts stress on the top ball joint because the wheels lifting motion conflicts with the ball joint position therefore pushing it to the side. With an adjustable camber kit, this is corrected by sliding the ball joint back inwards, towards the motor, to bring the wheel back into spec. they will of needed to look underneath your car to diagnose the problem. but i would take it to another garage to get them to diagnose the problem. i hope this helps man.
Q:89 Dodge van overheats, no water leak, replaced thermostat but still overheats.
A water pump shows signs of dripping through whats called a weep hole on the underside of the water pump.
Q:I have a 1990 js550 that i picked up for a project. When in the water it overheats and minimal water comes out the tell tail. When on the tap it runs fine no overheating, so i disconnected the hose from the back of the ski where it sucks the water in and ran a garden hose directly to it. And the ski ran fine.I also cleaned all the tubes out with air.I am not getting enough water flow through the ski when it is in the water. Is there a water pump inside the motor?There is definitely no blockages, there is just no enough pressure to keep it cool.Thanks
Jet Ski Pump
Q:My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
water pump is driven by the serpentine belt. if your belt is slipping then it wont run your water pump, so you could try getting another belt for like 20 bucks at an auto store. the heater is run electrically. well more importantly by a 'blower motor'. it could even be the blower motor resistor, they are connected to the blower motor, and usually have green tape on them. most likely it is going to be the water pump from what you have described
Q:I have been given a project to build a windmill driven water pump. So far, a lot of the books I've researched only give me info on how a water pump works. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance
Have you ever had those Windmill almond cookies,those are great.

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