Q:Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!

Unless the shop is very close 1/2 mile or less, have the car towed. Overheating a car can cause major internal damage, that will cost a lot more than the tow bill to repair!

Q:There is a loud squeecking noise coming from the water pump and the serpentime belt isnt loose!I dont know how long it would take a mechanic to do the job?

Spray some water on the belt while it's schreeching to rule the belt out. They often make noise, even when tight.

Q:I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.

Sound like the new water pump is junk. The water is leaking out of the weep hole. That is a hole designed to leak when the pump bearing is going bad. It is a safety precaution so you don't fry the bearing and lock up your pulley system.

Q:My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!

There is the possibility that the water pump cause a wake spot in the system to develop a small leak. The level at the reservoir might not drop but the coolant level in the radiator will drop. Just go back to them and tell them exactly what you said here, and ask to check your coolant level. Outside temperature won't effect it because the car runs at almost 200F

Q:i know a little bout cars always fixed my own since day one but this is the first car i have ever had/workd on with a internal water but thats driven off timeing chain my cars running hot and its holding prusser so i know its not radator or hoses but i need to know a way to check and make sure its the water pump befor i go tearing the engine apart

When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap and leave it off. Start the car and let it warm up. After about 10 minutes the thermostat should open and you will see the coolant flowing past the radiator opening. It should be fairly forceful, and that's the water pump.

Q:i mean, the water that runs through the ground from rain and ends up in the pit in the basement,is it clean to drink in an emergency? live close to a public road where they salt for snow and ice, so do you suppose that is in the water?

Probably NOT safe. Any run-off residue or water coming through the ground will contain many chemicals and compounds you can't ingest.

Q:here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!

The problem lies with the new 30/50 switch. With Your pressure tank empty of water, set the air pressure at 28psi. What is happening is when the water pressure drops below about 45 psi - the air pressure (50psi) on the bladder is forcing the water out rapidly. Then the pump has to work like cracy to overcome that bladder pressure! Easy Fix. Make sure the tank has no water in it.

Q:Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!

You can do a prelimary check on the water pump. The water pump on this vehicle is not internally driven so the pulley is exposed outside the timing cover. Grab hold of the pulley and try to push it back and forth. There should not be any noticeable play. If there is, the pump is bad. Could it go out in three years? Sure it can especially if the pump previously installed was remanufactured and not brand new. If still in doubt, remove the water pump belt and start the engine. If the noise is still there, then the pump is not the problem. I live on a tropical island, so I can't help with the weather question, but I believe if you use the right type of antifreeze in the right mix ratio there should be no additional wear on the pump in cold weather. The thermostat should keep the engine at normal operating temperature regardless of the outside temperature (except for while it's warming up initially). Good luck!!

Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)

nicely, you probably did numerous sturdy issues, yet there is something incorrect with your rigidity cap. it rather is what controls the rigidity on your gadget, until eventually you have a leak some the place. it would additionally be the reason on your overheating, because of the fact after it gets warm it somewhat is going to easily blow the water out of your cap. automobiles are made to run at or close to the boiling element. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water interior the gadget. automobiles want severe temperature to help in burning the gas thoroughly. it rather is ordinary for you vehicle to get some ranges warmer than your thermostat putting. you basically have been given to get a cap and verify the neck of the radiator. You gotta carry that rigidity.

Q:Is it a good idea to turn my pond water pump off at night and back on during the day to lower my electricity bill?

You have a few issues here. Your water that leaves when it's turned off - that's part of what's called your 'water in transit', the problem part is what can't be contained by your lower vessel when turned off. A surge tank can remedy this, as can other solutions - but I'd have to see it. Leaving it on 25/7 can eliminate this effect - until someone has to work on it. Off or not - if it is a sterile pond, you may only need 4 hrs a day for the sanitization, if your circulation is proper. If its a single pump setup, then override the timer to get the look (if you have a waterfall or fountain) when you want it. If it's a live pond, then it really needs to run all the time. These points are all part of a proper waterfeature design. Unfortunately, in this market, lots of folks and others are creating things which have the attributes you describe - and plenty more. It's like the professor of Landscape Architecture at the University of Arizona said, 'A waterfeature that is not properly designed and/or built is a planter waiting to happen'. Good Luck!