• Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 1
  • Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 2
  • Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 3
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota

Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q:I have a 2007 Yamaha R6s. It has 4000 miles on it. I have done the 1st 600 mile service and the 4000 mile service. The dealership didn't say anything about the brakes when I picked up the bike. The brakes feel just as good as when I first got it. I was looking around and dediced to check out the front brake pads. It seems like they are thin. Is this how they are supposed to look? How long do front motorcycle brake pads last on an average.
Depends on the type of brake and the rider, but if you're not riding the fronts (or ignoring the back brakes) I can't imagine OEM pads going out at 4k miles. Most replacements advertise 15,000, and the R6 should come with decent kit. Check the pads at the bottom if you can, that's where you want to see more mm, the tops will tend to look thin anyway. And if you're really worried, swing into a Yama dealership and check out the brakes on the new ones or ask a tech to take a peek.
Q:Brakes fine 2,10,30,...NO TELLIN'? miles of riding on/off road ...Brake ( LOCKS ) ?? Pull over bleed screw to spread discs ---works fine then it happens again.PS A Complete new rear brake assembly was already installed.With the Same result??
Do as Dani G and Firecracker say. Also check that the rubber hose is not collapsed on the inside or the internal check valve stuck. If any of these are found, you will need to replace the hose. If any of this happens, it will not allow the fluid to return.
Q:Which brake do you use the most when riding a motorcycle?
Front brake is used about 75% of the time, rear brake about 25%. Thats why they usually wear out faster.
Q:I‘m learning to ride a motorcycle on my own, First gear seems fine. But when i shift to second gear and apply a break, the bike engine stops. And when i apply break in first gear, the bike stops aswell.Do i need to leave the accelerator handle when i press the clutch while gear shifting? and if im riding on 2nd or 3rd or 4th gear, and i need to apply a break, should i break first and then shift down? or first shift down? and do i need to hold the clutch while applying the break? When im on 2nd or 3rd gears, Do i still need to leave accelerator handle before shifting up the gear??and Do i need to release the clutch and accelerate simultaneosly and slowly like in first gear?
There are two methods to braking. Racing method: As you apply the brakes you also down shift at the same time. This leaves the bike in the correct gear as you slow down so that you can accelerate quickly if you have to. As you are braking you will release the clutch after each downshift while still braking. Casual method: As you apply the brakes you hold in the clutch. This allows only the brakes to slow the motorcycle down. After the person comes to a complete stop, they will then down shift while holding in the clutch. The racing method also uses the engine to slow the motorcycle down. Even casual riders will use the racing method of stopping. Just don't be doing 100 mph and downshift all the way down to 1st. The rear wheel will lock up and you will over rev the engine. You have to judge your speed in comparison to the gear you are in. To up shift: Back off the throttle, engage the clutch, change to the next gear, release the clutch and apply the throttle. If you do it smoothly (clutch and throttle) you will barely notice that you changed gears.
Q:I know it may be a stupid question but what is the name in english of the triangle bracket that holds the brake pedal and footpegs to the body of the motorcycle?
Ur a loser because all u do is go on yahoo all day and b*tch and moan.
Q:For instance, does it wear out the clutch a lot more?does it save the brakes from wearing out? basically, is it good practice to use the engine to brake? and i'm talking about doing it sensibly, changing down gear at the right time, rather than jamming it into third at 100mph
Having owned a few standard transmission cars including Corvettes I'd roll out of the throttle in high gear and let the engine compression slow the car down. Of course high gear wouldn't work in town but what ever gear relative to the speed your going will slow the car down till it's time to clutch, brake and slide the transmission gear selector in it's gate to start while you're moving or low gear when you're stopped. Not to boast but I always tried to be smooth allowing the synchronizers plenty of time to speed up the next lower gear set when I decided to shift down. It's very important to realize that sudden upshifts or downshifts tend to wear the syncro rings.
Q:I‘m new to ridding and have only owned a motorcycle for over a month now and been using a combination of engine braking and normal braking. I feel more comfortable normal braking and just dropping a gear or 2 if i suddenly need to pick up speed. But what is mechanically better for a motorcycle engine braking or regular braking? Which is better in the long run? Is it bad for the engine? because I would rather just buy brake pads more often if that‘s the case.P.S. The topic is about riding an engine that is already way past the break in point.
if you maintain the bike properly.oil changes etc bike will last 100,000 miles more for a bigger bike the correct way to slow down is to change gears down as you slow using the engine the brakes in unison that way you are always in the correct gear for the speed your doing if this wears the brake pads. or the clutch plates. or the engine a little more than just grabbing clutch brake changing down multiple gears to guess what the engine revs speed should be big Farking deal. you may even get an extra 5,000 miles out of the engine but getting it wrong once could cost you a lot more people been riding bikes for a lot of years they say change down use engine braking your front rear brakes Im guessing they know what there talking about on the point of braking. in an emergency stop. the front brake is the only one that will stop you in a hurry. I practice stopping using only the front brake. I can just about stand the bike on the front wheel if the rear wheel isn't touching the ground much engine braking rear brake ain't going to help stop
Q:I have a motorcycle made by Bajaj.It‘s 3 months old and run 2500 kilometers.I handle it gently and have never dropped or crashed it.Two days back, the bike developed handling problems at the front end.The handle bars feels heavy and refuses to turn.It‘s as if the handle is welded to the chassis.The problem is at it‘s worst between speeds of 10-20 km/hr.The bike is also pulling to either sides when grabbing the front brake.Negotiating roundabouts has become risky.The bike just wants to go straight rather than turning and i have to muscle it back to my correct path.It was not like this just a week ago.What could be the problem?.The air pressure on both tyres are perfect.The front disks are not dragging either.Is it something related to forks or bearings?.Do the bearings get tight automatically?.
assuming you have not had the wheel out, first check your wheel nut is tight / then put your bike on the centre stand get someone to push down on the back so your front wheel is of the ground now get hold of your wheel at the top one hand at the bottom now pull with one hand as you push with the other then do the opposite with each hand is there play if so its your wheel bearings, while the bike is up go to the front get hold of the wheel in the central position gentle knock it to the left it should just go straight to the stop then do the same to the right , if it is tight it could be the lock ring has tightened up a bit just easy it of a fraction until the wheel will move freely left right, then get hold of the front wheel while in central position pull towards you then push away from you if there is play head bearings are to lose, , now if you nip them up it goes tight your head bearings are shot or some have fallen out you need new ones hope this helps you sot it

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Related keywords