rutile titanium dioxide R6628

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The characteristics of the product

R6628 is a silicon, aluminum inorganic and organic surface treated rutile titanium dioxide, it has high whiteness and glossiness, strong tinting strength, good weather resistance and dispersability.

Quality index

The content of titanium dioxide %         not less than93.0

Brightness %                          not less than97.5

PH value of aqueous suspension          6.5~8.5

Tint reducing power (Reynolds number)    not less than1800

The content of rutile %                  not less than97.5

Water dispersion %                    not less than 85

Screenings(45μm) %               not more than0.05

Resistivity                    not less than80



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Q:Advantages and Disadvantages of Lacquer and Latex Paint
General friends that the paint is toxic, mainly by the impact of television advertising.
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Paint thinner may eventually soften the existing paint, making a mess but it is not the product you want. You may be able to do just the sanding, That is the usual procedure if you are planning on repainting. You do not have to sand all the paint off, just lightly sand the surface enough to rough it up so that the new paint will be able to adhere to the old. Wipe all the sanding dust off the piece. You can then paint on 1 coat of Kilz2 primer, then 1 or 2 coats of the new paint or skip the primer, just paint. Use both in latex. You can choose the amount of shine for the top coat/s...I would suggest satin (low sheen) or semi-gloss (higher sheen) I would use primer first ... if the old paint is extremely shiny, if the old paint is a very light color and you are painting over with a dark color, if the old paint is very dark and you are painting over with a light color if the old paint is oil base (you can test by dipping a Qtip in nail polish remover that contains acetone, dab it on the old paint...if it comes off clean then its oil base, if color or yellow comes off its latex. You should not paint latex over oil. And lastly, if you want to remove all the paint from the piece, buy paint remover. This is usually a gel-like liquid that you brush on and allow X amount of minutes for it to loosen the paint. Then you gently scrape the paint off with a narrow putty knife. You will have to use an old toothbrush to get the paint out of tight areas/cracks. This process takes quite a long time to really remove all the paint. Probably take you a couple of days. Once all the paint is off, clean and allow to dry per directions on product then you can repaint or consider staining the piece. An even simpler finish after paint removal is a couple of coats of tung oil rubbed onto the piece. Gives a tough water proof finish but allows all the grain and natural color of the wood to show through.
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If you are talking about melamine that you see the molecular formula to know, 2, 4, 6-triamino-1,3,5-triazine; if it is through the three polymer is also a ternary polymer. AMPS-AA-MAn ternary polymer
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Of course it is good for a polymer charge.
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There must be hurt sprinkle, paint preheat molecules evaporate, the more concentrated smell, the more toxic gases
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Drawing the items in the yellow as the tone, the dark tone on the ocher, etc., high light with light yellow, point on the white - so it looks like a glittering gold.
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Quality paint is nice.. but you also need quality labor. There are 'painters' who can make a Mona Lisa out of spray cans and others who can take the best paint in the world and turn it into junk. That said..lets ignore the cost of body work and fancy detail work like striping or extra colors since you did not mention that... A decent and good paint job should be at least three coats of color and two coats of clear.. each rubbed out before the next and dried hard before taking them outside. With those basics it should cost you between $800 to $1000 depending upon where you are (the cost of living factors in a lot and the same paint job in San Francisco or New York will cost you more then somewhere in the middle of Kansas) .

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