rubber lined wafer butterfly Valve with vulcanized seat

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Quick Details

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Structure: Butterfly

  • Pressure: Low Pressure

  • Power: Manual

  • Material: CI,DI,SS,WCB,ALB,Brass,etc.

  • Temperature of Media: Medium Temperature

  • Media: water,gas,oil.etc.

  • Port Size: DN50-1200

  • Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: D7A1X-10/16

  • Color: blue

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Standard export packaging(plywooden case) or as per clients' requirements.
Delivery Detail:within10-30 days after receipt of L/C or 30% deposit


4.lever,wormgear,electric,pneumatic driver.

Rubber Lined Wafer Type Butterfly Valve


1.Small in size and light in weight. Easy installation and maintenance. It can be mounted wherever needed.

2.Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3.Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

4.Long service life. Standing the test of thousands opening/closing operation.

5.Wide selection of materials, applicable for various media.


Design standard

Face to face

End flange

Test & inspection





ISO5752 series 20


DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1


ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598




Testing Pressure


Applicable Temp. °C

Applicable Medium




DN50 ~ DN1000



-45~ 150

Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids,

Alkalis, etc.

Material List:

Part Name



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Q:Zone valves with aquastat?
The zone valves should have 4 wires, 2 yellow and 2 red.The yellow wires are connected to the 24 volt thermostat circuit in a series. The corresponding thermostat turns the motor on, opening the zone valve, closing the end switch and turning on the boiler and the pump. The red wires are the end switch wires. They are just wired together in parallel and anytime at least one opens, it turns the boiler/pump on. Now, you must have one of the Tstat wires going to the boiler, when it calls for heat, it turns the boiler/pump on. You probably have the zone valves locked in the open position. So you will have heat all over the house but just not as much control as you had when you were running individual zones. But, you know what? Your system would be more efficient if you left the zone valves locked open and ran the system from one thermostat! To make it even better, you can run the circulation pump all heating season long ( just wire it direct to 120v) and just use the thermostat to turn the boiler(burner) on when there is a call for heat. If one zone or the other is too hot, try turning a valve down on the return line(if you have valves) to balance the heat. Hope this is not too complicated and hope to help!...................................
Q:Water pipe/ shut off valve hammering?
First check for a kinked or twisted supply connector hose. You may also have a piece of rubber gasket/washer debris stuck in the valve body (seat washer) or in the fill valve itself (from the connector compression washer). Shut off the water supply at the angle stop and disconnect the supply hose from the fill valve nipple under the toilet tank. Get a bucket and put the end of the supply connector hose/tube into the bucket and open the supply valve again. If it still hammers when unrestricted like this, the obstruction is in the anglestop valve body. The water pressure may force it out, but if it doesn't, you'll have to shut off your main water supply to clean the stop or replace it. If it doesn't hammer when unrestricted, the problem is now in the new fill valve, and is probably a deteriorated piece of the compression washer in your old supply connector hose or tube that has been pushed into the fill valve. Since it's a Fluidmaster, you can disassemble the head of the valve and remove any visible obstruction or just replace the top part.
Q:an people with bicuspid aortic valve live long?
The mitral valve between the left atrium and left ventricle only has two cusps and it works fine. Since the valve going into the left ventricle has two valves, it stands to reason that a similar valve going out of the left ventricle would function similarly if it was the same size and shape. The number of cusps is not entirely related to how well the valve functions. In your case, the opening of the aortic valve is slightly smaller than normal, but clearly capable of passing an adequate amount of blood. The stenosis alone may be the only problem caused by the valve. The stenosis you have likely creates some back pressure when the left ventricle contracts. The heart compensates partly for the back pressure but this prolonged compensation wears on the heart valve a little more than normal. So, you end up with a heart that more or less functions normally but the back pressure and compensation cause the heart valve to wear out faster than normal. Its a gradual effect. The type of damage done from this circumstance is not something that changes rapidly. Evaluating the condition every three years is still probably a very cautious approach and its not certain that the stenosis will ever become a significant problem even if you live well beyond 70 years.
Q:What is a enlarged heart Valve?
I am a CCMA Look up the word Cardiomyopathy. This is the Medical Terminology for an Enlarged Heart Valve and Yes it is VERY serious. Best Wishes
Q:1.positive valve rotator help burn exhaust valves? 2.valve rotator are used on in intake valve? T or F?
Valve rotators are just that, they cause the valves to rotate during operation preventing wear in only one spot there by extending the life of the valve and the valve seats.
Q:Noisy Xr250r motor, valves.?
.004 is a bit tight for an exhaust valve? usually this is nearer 10 thou. It is better to have slightly larger clearances to the tappets/ valves than to be too tight and risk burning your valves. You do not mention the decompressor! I'm sure your bike should have a manual decompression lever if not an auto retard unit on the cam shaft to allow you to atleast crank the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke. I suspect that is where the noise problem is coming from, either that or you might be one tooth out on your cam shaft gear allowing the piston crown to kiss the valve when it is open...hence explaining the very hard to turn over!! but see my other comment too! What ever It is time to remove the inspection covers and re examine the whole set up. BTW the bike should be an UTTER PIG to kick over compression without a decompressor!! as it has a very high compresion ratio. expect to be standing up on the kick start if you are less than 160 lb (11 stone) 78 kg
Q:mitral valve prolapse syndrome?
Mitral valve prolapse is known to lead to chest pain, but the exact cause for the chest pain is not understood. The chest pain related to mitral valve prolapse is described as atypical, because it does not have the typical characteristics of other heart related pain. It is possible that your chest pain may or may not be related to your mitral valve prolapse. Chest pain that occurs or worsens with breathing is suggestive of a problem with the lining around the lungs (pleurisy.) A musculoskeletal cause like a pulled muscle is also possible. Anxiety would also be a possible cause. None of these conditions are serious. Chest pain resulting from MVP is not known to lead to any negative health consequences. Discuss it with your Cardiologist if you remain concerned.
Q:I am getting a valve job...?
well, is the car in good shape otherwise, like the tranny, suspension and the body?, if it is, then its probably wort a valve job, its cheaper then another motor.
Q:What is Mitral Valve Relapse?
I believe you DO mean MVP. You probably misunderstood your cardiologist. Prolapse is a deformation of the valve in which valve does not completely close, causing a back flow of blood into the atrium. In most cases this is relatively benign and in fact, occurs in about 10% of people. In severe cases, you may need a value replacement, but usually this occurs at birth or after a disease damages the heart.
Q:how i fix my trumpet's third valve?
instead of the standard cheapo trumpet grease, try a more generic brass instrument oil. also make sure you aren't tightening the valve screw cap too tightly. it's not a good idea just keep tapping it. also, unwanted moisture can create a seal that will sometimes inhibit the valve from popping back up. get it dried out as much as you can. also, don't use too much of anything - the oil, the grease, etc - excess will keep it from popping out too.

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