• RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable System 1
  • RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable System 2
  • RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable System 3
RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable

RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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RG Series Vesicant Polyethylene Insulated Coaxial Cable


Brief Introduction

The product is mainly based on ANSI/SCTE 74 2003 "75 Ω soft knitting type RF coaxial cable into standard" design and manufacture.The cable has excellent transmission characteristics of a uniform characteristic impedance, low loss, the minimum attenuation,etc.The highest degree of foaming cable up to 75%, does not contain the polarity molecular residue, medium micro holes in uniform and airtight, foam layer impervious airtight, ensure the stable performance and cable long use life.


 

Advantages

The product is mainly suitable for broadband transmission cable TV network users line, used for rf signal transmission and voice, data and video energy and frequency range from 5 MHz to 1000 MHz, two-way transmission network can provide reliable transmission and prevent interference effect.

This series of main cable sizes: RG59, RG6, RG7, RG11, cable conductor in the conductive rate is not less than 18% IACS copper clad steel (according to user requirements copper conductor or copper-coated aluminum center conductor); Woven layer using aluminum alloy silk.

Type and Designation:

Type   Designation Application QVR Copper-core PVC Insulating Low-tension Wire for Highroad Vehicle Vehicle Electric Appliances and InstrumentsQVVR Copper-core PVC Butyronitrile Compound Insulating Low-tension Wire for Highroad Vehicle Vehicle Electric Appliances and InstrumentsQFR Copper-core PVC Butyronitrile Compound Insulating Low-tension Wire for Highroad Vehicle Vehicle Electric Appliances and InstrumentsQVR-105 Copper-core PVC High-temperature Resistant (Highest Temperature 105℃) PVC Insulating Low-tension Wire for Highroad Vehicle Vehicle Electric Appliances In High-temperature Area and Instruments CircuitryWD-QER Tinning Copper-core Low-smoke No-halogen Inflaming Retarding Polyolefin Insulating Low-tension Wire for Highroad Vehicle Vehicle Electric Appliances (including the High-temperature Area) and Instruments Circuitry


Specification

Nom.cross-section of conductor
mm2

Construction of conductor
mm

Insulation thickness
mm

Overall diameter
mm  

Max.d.c resistance at 20℃   Ω/km

Bare copper

Tinned cooper

0.2

12/0.15

0.3

1.20

92.3

95.0

0.3

16/0.15

0.3

1.29

69.2

71.2

0.4

23/0.15

0.3

1.43

48.2

49.6

0.5

16/0.20

0.6

2.12

39.0

40.1

0.75

24/0.20

0.6

2.33

26.0

26.7

1.0

32/0.20

0.6

2.51

19.5

20.0

1.5

30/0.25

0.6

2.78

13.3

13.7

2.5

49/0.25

0.7

3.42

7.98

8.21

4

56/0.30

0.8

4.19

4.95

5.09

6

84/0.30

0.8

5.20

3.30

3.39

10

84/0.40

1.0

6.80

1.91

1.95

16

126/0.40

1.0

7.88

1.21

1.24

25

196/0.40

1.3

9.93

0.780

0.795

35

276/0.40

1.3

11.80

0.554

0.565

50

396/0.40

1.5

14.02

0.386

0.39


Picture

 

 

Q:I got two mobile GPS units for my car which use a mini USB interface for powering. One of the units didn't come with a cigarette adapter so I am trying to figure out how to power it. Can I just use a normal USB cable? I would tap the red wire into the fuse box in my car, and ground the black wire to the frame. So:-Can a mini USB cable handle 12V for ~5ft-Is that the right way to connect them?Thanks!
no because it will explode it only takes 5 to 4.5 volts and 2 to 2.5 volts i recommend using 5 volts and 2.5 watts bye
Q:So my vehicle's amp recently stopped working. It worked great after I installed it about a year before, so after testing for shorts, burnt out fuses, etc, I decided that the amp had died on me. After getting a new one-and it not working either-I checked the voltage at the end of the power cable where it hooks onto the amp. I get a 12v reading when the ignition is off, but only a 4v reading when it is in the run or aux. position. The in line fuse is good, as well as the battery (just had it checked). Any ideas as to why this is happening? As of this posting, I have NOT tried running a new power cable yet, but that is the next step if nobody has an answer. Thanks.
I had a similar problem a few years ago and simply couldn't make sense of it. I traced the power wire back testing it every couple feet and eventually got to the AGU fuse holder. I had ~14v on the battery side and very little voltage on the amp side. It LOOKED fine, and the fuse was fine, but something weird going on in the fuse holder itself simply wasn't making a good connection. I replaced it and was back up and running. I'm not going to say that's definitely your problem, but it's worth a check,
Q:NE1 have a surge protector and power filter for there home theatre stuff? If so what is the model and did it make a difference? I have RF grounding problem through my cable and was wondering if the moster cable boxes would help clean up the signal. I have to wrap a wire around the coax cable and ground it to something to make SOME not all of the noise dissappear. (lines rising from bottom to top of picture) Obviously I want a more definate and permant solution. Thanks.
The surge protector could have a swap or circuit breaker on it. determine the swap is on and/or attempt resetting the circuit breaker. individually, i'm not inspired with Monster potential high quality. i think there are extra ideal products on the industry.
Q:what does the power cable that comes with video cards do? is it for when u dont have a 6-pin power connector or something? j/w cuz im thinkin bout gettin a ati 3850 and it requires a 6-pin connector, but yet i know 2 dudes with the same psu as me, runnin a ati 3850 perfectly.HP Hipro 300W 12V 19amps but yet it doesnt have a 6-pin connector
That's right, the power cable is in case your power supply doesn't have a 6-pin power connector. A 300W power supply for a 3850 is cutting it a bit close, but you'll probably get away with it if the rest of your machine is typical. (Typical machines with a 3850 are just under 200W peak. See link.)
Q:I'm new to PCs and I recently bought a Dell Optiplex 745 desktop PC but it came without cables. I thought I had the correct power cord but it turns out I gave it away to friends. I have the power cable that you plug into the wall which has the standard PC kettle plug (the correct one for PCs not an actual kettle plug) that you'd usually plug into an adapter then into your PC but I'm not sure if you can just plug it in without the correct adapter. I have Googled but cant make head nor tail of it all. And by adapter I mean the cable with the little box that you usually plug into a device such as a PC, laptop or Xbox 360 before you connect the cable to the mains.Thanks.
It all comes down to the amount of output that the pc is set to take. I would think that you would be fine without the adapter, assuming it already works. If you do decide to do this make sure you set up a surge protector, dont just plug it into the wall. A power surge could fry the internals and brick the pc.
Q:if i remove the power cable and switch on it works normally without restarting , plz help with this ~?
go in control panel and set ur laptop settings to not to start while swith in
Q:Hello,I recently bought a kotatsu and I really need some help. The power cable is of course Japanese... And I need some type of converter.On the part of the cable that plugs into the radiotaor it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 250VOn the end that plugs into the wall it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 125VI''m not sure if a simple small converter to let me put the Japanese cable into my wall is enough, I think I need something extra to make sure nothing goes into flames.Inside the Japanese instruction manual I found some info ... However, I'm not really sure if it is related to the power supply or not...AC100V 50-60Hz400W3.1 (Probably the length of the cable) 1.3 (Same here I think)140Wh 60 Wh55C 37CPlease help me, what should I get to be able to use the cable in Europe. Any links at all will be helpful...Thanks.
Don't worry too much about what the cord says. Worry about the power requirements on the appliance label, and making sure you are feeding it with the voltage required, with a capacity within the range. In your instance, you will need a converter transformer that converts your outlet voltage to 100V, and has 550 or larger watt capacity.
Q:is it a power cable? parallel port?
The monitor needs a power cable and a data cable. The data cable will plug in to the video socket on your PC.
Q:I removed the seats to my 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE and noticed that there was a small cable sticking out from the carpet underneath the seats. Since I have the SE model my car didn't come with the power seats. My question is are those cables there to attach the power seats?
Maybe - but there are other cables that go to car seats. Some cars have heated seats (bun warmers, I call them). Many newer cars have a pressure switch in the front passenger seat to deactivate the passenger side air bag if the seat is empty.
Q:I blew 2 fuses in my amp in my car, i have replaced them both, one was a 30amp and the other a 20. The 30 amp was an inline fuse from the battery to the amp and the 20 amp was a standard 20 amp fuse in the amp. As i said i replaced both fuses and try the amp again and it wouldnt go. There is a LED light on the top just lighting up a logo, when i attatch the power from the battery the light goes off and when i disconnect it the light comes on. When i dissconect the power the red light for diagnose comes on.
sounds like the power wire might be exposed somewhere and its shorting the system

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