• QJ Series Electric/ Diesel Water Pumps For Well System 1
QJ Series Electric/ Diesel Water Pumps For Well

QJ Series Electric/ Diesel Water Pumps For Well

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:200QJ40-45/3

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:10 hp

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:High Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:Cast Iron / 201,304,316 Stainless Steel

  • Color:Blue

  • Flow:40m3/h

  • Head Range:32-48m

  • Power:7.5 kW

  • Rotational Speed:2875r/min

  • Drive:Motor

  • OEM,Design Service:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden box packing
Delivery Detail:3-5days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

QJ series electric/ diesel water pumps for well
1.Flow:10~500m3/h
2.Lift:10~600m
3.no leakage,long life
4.5,6,7,8,10,12 inch

 QJ series electric/ diesel water pumps for well

1. Operation parameters

Flow range

10~500 m3/h

Lift range

10~600m

Applicable well Borehole diameter

φ175~φ400mm

Diameter scope

φ32~φ203mm

Temperature range

-15~80 centidegree

2.Product overview

QJ submersible pumps are widely used in

agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation well water lifting

water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building

the hill, mountain areas' water diversion

drainage of low-lying areas

water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area

all the other water facilities

3. Model significance

300 QJ 200-40

300-----------Base No.

QJ------------Type characteristic, Submersible

200-----------Flow (m3/h)

40------------Head (m)

3. Technical parameters

Several type parameters, other type, please contact with manufacturer.

Model

Flow range

Head range

Rotation speed

Pump efficiency

Rated power of motor

Maximum outer diameter of unit

Weight

(m3/h)

(m)

(r/min)

(%)

(kw)

(mm)

(kg)

175QJ10-40/3

9-11

42-

38

2850

53

2.2

48

175QJ15-65/5

13-17

68-

62

2850

58

5.5

168

73

200QJ15-26/2

13-17

28-

24

2850

62

2.2

184

48

200QJ20-30/2

18-22

31-

29

2850

66

3

184

59

250QJ140-105/7

130-150

91-120

2875

76

63

233

430

300QJ300-160

279-321

167-153

2900

76

220

620

4.  QJ using condition

(1). 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%, frequency is 50HZ, three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2). Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3). The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4). The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5). Water temperature should be no more than 20 centidegree.

(6). Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7). PH value of water 6.5~8.5.

(8). Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.            

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

 

5.  Characteristics

 (1).  Motors and pumps assembled into one.

 (2).  Simple structure.

 (3).  Easy installation and removal, small area.

 (4).  Simple using and maintenance.

 (5).  Safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

Q:i have a 2000 chevy malibu (i know it sucks) i fixed the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) thermostat and its still leaking and sometimes overheating. my next thought is its the water pump. there's no crack in the radiator or hoses is there anything else that can cause it to overheat besides these. what about vacuum leakage? o2 sensors?
Have the system pressure checked that will show U where the leak is.
Q:Okay, i have a 1997 dodge stratus with a 2.4l motor, recently i was out early in the morning when i heard what sounded like a loud whining noise, i quickly pulled over and killed the motor. Turns out the teeth were stripped off the timing belt and the water pump busted. How much would this cost to get it fixed, and what is the possibility the engine may be damaged? Also would it be worth fixing it, or just selling it for parts? Oh yeah, the car has 176k miles
yes its probably worth fixing ,you shouldn't have no engine damage to it because that one doesn't run an interference engine ,all that should have to be done is new pulleys and a water pump,and new timing belt kit put on it,all of this will cost around 3-400 bucks though for everything,but its probably worth repairing,you cant buy a good car for 400 bucks,and if it ran well before then it should be alright once you get it repaired,good luck with it i own on of those and their good cars.
Q:Is pumping water, the new pump is also this problem, the pump is also working, that is, no water, at night I opened, in the installation of water, second days also make it to noon is not so good
What floor do you live on? If your floor is relatively high, the noon is not good, because there are too many people in the water (and maybe someone else is using a pump), so the water level is too far away from your house to pump it up
Q:Im looking at putting a cabin on my property. I have a 200 gallon underground fresh water tank and i'm needing a pump to get the water into the cabin. i want to run a toilet, sink and possibly a shower. does anyone know the style of pump i would need that would only operate when i need it to that way it does not burn up.
I had a jet pump to run my whole house on my farm. It was placed in the basement, but it could be in a back room, too and they are pretty quiet these days. Does it freeze inside the cabin? I assume not. having it inside means if you have trouble even in freezing weather you can work on it in comfort. The end of the pie into your water tank will need a foot valve to keep the pipe filled so you don't have to prime the pump ( not a handy thing to have to do all the time). Other than that, the system is operated with electricity and a pressure switch which is settable. It will not run all the time this way. Not sure anymore but, for example the switch might be set to come on at 50PSI and shut off at 125PSI. You can tell by the switch or get a recommendation from the store where you buy it. (see pictures in link) Menard's sells these and department workers are trained to answer all your questions about installation, parts, and what you need,etc.
Q:We lost power during the hurricane, we have well water. the power went out and we lost water also, what are the procedures to bleed and restart a goulds pumps c48a93a06 water pump?
1. you are going to need at least a couple gallons of water in a bucket to re-prime. 2. look for a plug at the top of the pump and remove it. 3. pour water into the plug opening, filling up the pump as much as you can. 4. put plug back in so at least one thread is grabbing. by doing this it will allow air to escape and won't be spraying water everywhere. it is also a good idea to keep your hand on the plug. 5. turn on electricity to pump. 6. when you start to notice pressure re-gaining tighten up the plug so it does not drip. It is also a good idea to have an outside tap on to get air out of the lines. Another thing is, it is a good idea to shut off water to toilets and washing machines before re-starting pump because small debris have a habit of clogging them up. When your pressure is back, drain your toilet and cold water line to your washing machine, flushing all the stuff out until you see nice clear water. Hope I helped and good luck.
Q:I would like to know that a water pump or water motor which is of 1 hp what is the height from which it can pull water ? And also if there is a bubbling sound of air and no water is being supplied what does it mean ?
I will 'clarify' the question, then respond----- If you have a 1HP motor connected to a water pump,; what is its lifting capability ? (like raising the water UP from a well)... At or neat 'sea level', the very ideal (perfect) pump can lift water UP from 33 feet below. To be practical, considering in-efficiencies(losses) you should plan for about 25 feet of lift. Gurgling or bubbling of air/water is a good sign that the pump can not generate the vaccum-seal to begin the flow of water(priming process). You need to provide a way to prime the pump. To prime the pump, you need to supply a flow of water INTO the pump as it is running(water must be running backward into the well, then the pump will initiate the lifting process. To prevent the need to prime the pump everytime that you turn it on, you should put a check valve at the INTAKE orifice (the very end that sticks in the well). This will hold the column of water in the pipe; preventing it from running back into the well. (A check valve allows fluid to flow in one direction only....this must be connected such that the water can only flow UPWARD, out of the well. Good luck.....if you need further assistance, do email with more pump detail/specs. Make sure that the pump is rotating in the correct direction......
Q:My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!
The thermostat is on it's way out..and is sticking closed. Get a new thermostat installed and the engine coolant flushed and filled with a 50/50 mix. If it were the water pump you would have been loosing coolant and the problem would not have been intermittent. Take it to another shop as they are trying to rip you off for a water pump. Replacing a thermostat and flush is not that expensive ..
Q:I have some black RTV silicone that I got with a gasket for my oil pan. Can I use some on a gasket for a water pump instead of regular sealant or is there a particular type I need? If there is a certain or preferred type please give me a link to it at like autozone or something, thanks!
there are a few color gaskets such as red, blue, orange and black. If you have black you pretty much can use black on any part or gasket that needs replacing so you are fine using your black rtv on your water pump. Black and red are the best rtv and can replace anything an orange or blue gasket can do and more.
Q:I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
Q:Standard said that the fire pump should be certified by fire water pump, fire water pump and living water pump what is the difference?In addition to the brand, the same function of the pump, the impact of its price factors? Please advise Master ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ only feel so hard ah
Fire pump and life pump essential difference, simply said: in the materialBecause we are used every day in the life of the pump, so there is no rust phenomenon, and the fire pump can not occur even in a hundred years to spend time, even some of the fire pump until life exceed the standard is not used, only periodically, so in order to prevent emergencies caused economic losses and personnel to design special pump different from the life of pump material as fire pump. Single stage centrifugal pump. The multistage centrifugal pump and pump life principle without any distinction, but the material will cast steel replacing 304, 309 stainless steel or copper materials, different specifications of other fire pump structure, materials should use copper and stainless steel.

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