QDX Series Submersible Drainage Pump for Clean Water

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application

They are recommended for pumping clean water without abrasive particles and liquids that are chemically non-aggressive to the materials of which the pump is made. Mainly used for well pumping, river pumping, farm irrigation, water supply, drainage in breeding industry.

Operating Limits

1. Trans medium's PH: 6-8.5

2. Fluid temperature limit: <40 °C
3. Max ambient temperature: <40 °C
4. Operating depth: <5m

5. Sand content in medium: <0.1%
6. Sand size in medium: <0.2mm
7. Pump working position: More than 0.5m over the bottom, should not be inserted into sludge.

Materials

Motor housing: Aluminum
Impeller: Aluminum
Motor wire: Copper or Aluminum
Suction strainer: Steel or SS
Outlet: Brass or SS
Mechanical seal: Ceramic - Graphite
Shaft: C45S or SS304

Motor

2-pole induction motor
Insulation Class: E
Protection: IPX8
Single-phase with capacitor and thermal overload protection

Model Instruction

QDX15-17-0.37(F)

(F): With float switch.

0.37: Rate power(kw)

17: Rated head(m)

1.5: Rated flow(m3/h)

QDX: Model code, and no "D" means three-phase

Q:I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.: Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.

Q:Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.: If its starts, runs and drives its probably ok. Sometimes the engine block can crack--- if so you might notice that you are loosing oil or antifreeze---- and/or they are mixing together inside the engine. Also, if you see a lot of white smoke coming from the tailpipe then you have a problem. Otherwise, even if it was overheated it should be fine as long as it wasn't driven for extended periods, over and over. Often what really causes damage to overheated vehicles is when people add cold water to an overheated engine, which can cause it to crack as well. The spark plugs probably got the worst of it... Change the spark plugs and your oil. Good luck and best regards.

Q:I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.: The pump usually leaks from the center where the shaft comes out to the pulley, it should be replaced. It should be replaced regularly, as the timing belt runs on the water pump pulley, and if the pulley locks it will take out the timing belt and destroy the engine. How many miles on this car? How long since you replaced the timing belt? Probably too long, those should be replaced every 90,000 miles. Things to replace while you are in there: - Timing belt - Timing belt tensioner - Timing belt pulleys - Water pump (with gaskets) - Thermostat There are kits from Autozone and NAPA and such that have most of these parts together.

Q:Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks: jason is right on this. a water pump wont do what your saying. it sounds more like something inside the engine is knocking, like a rod bearing.

Q:Can someone please post a picture of how to find a Water Pump on a 1992 Dodge Spirit with a K2.5L Engine, it would be much appreciated. :): not a bad idea to post your question in the boating section, considering that us boaters are smarter than most, but you'll probably have a better chance of resolving your problem if you post it in the automotive repair section.

Q:I have an 1985 cadillac fleetwood hearse and the water pump is shot to hell. where do get a good cheep one.: Autozone, O'Reilly's, Napa, or Pep Boys. Most water pumps are anywhere from 30 - 150 bucks for any car.

Q:What are the categories of pumps?: Did you say the pump voltage is 220 or 380?

Q:I have to replace the hot water recirculating pump in my house. It is made in Hungary and the Manufacturer's letters look almost Russian. The only words in English are the spec's (amp draw, voltage, etc.) This house was built in 1998 and the plumber's no longer in business. It looks like it just threads onto a quot;capbut I don't want to start using pipe wrenches and just mangle it (it's very difficult to get to also). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike: Typically, such pumps come as an assembly with flanges to match the existing pipe. Determine your pipe-size and purchase the entire system to that size. Your plumbing supply will be able to help you match all that. And the difference in cost between just the pump cartridge and the entire system is nominal. Get a good one, by the way. Grundfos and Bell Gosset are amongst the best, TACO comes in pretty well also. Unless you have isolation valves on either side of this pump, you will have to drain the system to do it properly. While you are in there, you have the opportunity to install isolation valves and other sorts of refinements for easing future servicing. Hope this helps.

Q:The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?: The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.

Q:The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.: If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.

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