• PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire System 1
  • PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire System 2
PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire

PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire

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1. Product Description:

PVC insulated wires and cables of 450/750V and below are mainly applied for hard wiring of electrical appliances, electric apparatus, instruments, telecommunication equipment, power lighting, and buildings with the rated AC voltage of 500V or DC 1000V. PVC insulated wires belong to the series of laying electric wires, which is mainly suitable for laying at the fixed places.

The rated voltage of the wires should equal to or higher than the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower than 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires.

 

2. Product Characteristic:

1, heat resistance performance: the XLPE has a very good heat resistance performance of the network.

2, insulation performance: XLPE maintained the original good insulation characteristics of PE, and the insulation resistance to further increase. The dielectric loss tangent is very small, and the temperature has little effect.

3, mechanical properties: because the intermolecular built a new chemical bond, XLPE hardness, stiffness, wear resistance and impact resistance were improved, which make up the PE is vulnerable to the shortcomings of environmental stress cracking.

4, resistance to chemical characteristics: XLPE has a strong acid and alkali resistance and oil resistance, the main product of the combustion of water and carbon dioxide, the environment is less harmful to meet the requirements of modern fire safety.

 

3.Specification

Electric cable wire:

1; 450/750V, copper or aluminum core

2; ISO9001-2008,IEC, ASTM

3; factory direct sales

4;best service

Packaging Details:

Circles or drum ,or according to your request

Delivery Detail:

 As your request

 

4. Reference Picture:

 

Q:Hi all :)I am looking in to re-wiring a house that has not been re-wired since the 50's. I have been looking at the electrical system where the wires are external to the wall, but in trunking. Does anyone know how much that would cost and if there are any negatives, apart from the aesthetic elements?
As Mr.rhsaunde alluded to, this is a pretty wild idea. However, one wants what one whats. Price will be determined by the cost of the wire and the other materials you'd use, at the time in which you start the project. Not only would this external wiring be, in my opinion, sort of funky (no offense) I would think that it might actually be imposing on you living space. Obviously not a hole lot, but a little none the less. Just make sure that you do everything to code. That is if you'll be having it inspected. I suggest doing so. The government wants your money. If you try to get by them they can not only make you undo all that you've do, they can also fine you heavily as well. I would assume that you will have to use wire-mold or a similar products. I have wired many new houses and I have never heard of trunking. Maybe I'll look in to it. I personally would have to oppose to your idea. On the other hand I say go for it if that's what you want. Good luck.
Q:Home appliances used in the wire. To the market to buy copper wire and a copper wire and copper wire which two of them a good point? How to identify the authenticity? More
Can be buried directly, but to be buried below thirty centimeters
Q:I had work in electrical business for about 10 years! I had my company overseas and I had a lot of projects done as well as building electric of a Mall! My question is what paperwork do I need, how long the procedure takes to obtain all the certificates and register company, how much would I need to invest and are there any big electric company that can offer me work and support as subcontractor in NJ or NY state!Thank you very much for your time!
Contact the website below to get an answer to what training and testing you will need for each category of electrician in New York.
Q:I am prepping it for a derby and accidentally cut the fuel pumps electrical wire harness thinking it was stereo or tail lights. I just want to hook it up to start it and move it to the shop where i can really tear into it. There are 4 wires. Black, purple, grey, and black w/ yellow stripe. I want to bypass the electrical connectors and just splice it into the wires that run along the drivers side floor. What color wire is what and what color do i splice it to?
Easy way? The gray is the pump. Run it to a hot key wire or a toggle switch. Run the other two black wires to ground.
Q:I am trying to install new electrical cooking controls into my kiln. the part is robert shaw inf-240-31b, or 5501-473. I drew a diagram of how it was attached to the wiring inside the kiln before i took it apart, but now that i have the new controls, and i am installing them, i realized that i left something out of my diagram. at the top of the control, there are three prongs sticking out. the first is labeled P, the second, L1, and the third, L2. however, when I drew my diagram, i only drew two prongs sticking out at the top, and did not label them in my sketch. there are two wires that need to be connected to the prongs. which two do I connect to the wires? and what to P, L1, and L2 represent?
I am assuming that kiln uses 240 volts because it is high power. If instead it is gas fired then you are talking 120 volts just to safely open and close that gas valve. For 240 volts, L1 and L2 are typically the two live wires. For 120 volts L1 is usually the live wire and L2 usually the neutral. The third one must be a ground to keep you from getting a shock if live wires touch any metal on the outside of the control. Usually it does not make any difference for 240 volts where you connect L1 and L2. For 120 volts you need to get the live wire to the right place. For the 240 volts there is probably a switch symbol on the diagram that opens both wires for shutoff. For the 120 volts the switch is only in one of the wires and that is the L1 live one. If you are in doubt try phoning tech support at Robert-Shaw.
Q:Cable cable price (how much money a roll)? Own decoration with, and what brand of pipe how much money? More
See what you use the line of aluminum or copper wire tube with a good tube of gold
Q:even if the damaged area isn't touching anything?
What kind of damage? Exactly what is damaged? How is it damaged? Pictures might help. It's hard to make suggestions with the information provided.
Q:i had to remove a couple of light fixtures for some drywall repair i was doing. the fixture was hooked up to a hot-neutral aluminum wiring AND a hot neutral copper wire. i think the other fixture had same wiring. have these fixtures been pig tailed? if not, what should it look like? thanx!
I had a home with Aluminium wiring. This type of wiring is safe if you take certain precautions: Aluminium wire is more flexible, but more fragile, so handle it more delicately than you would Copper. Use only Aluminium connectors with Aluminium wires. Fixtures should have a symbol printed or moulded into them with Al in a circle. If you see Cu in a circle and Al in a circle with a slash across, that means it is not for use with Aluminium directly. You can connect Copper wires to Aluminium wires if you use special connectors (#33) AND a special paste. Your local home centre should have both.
Q:If you spray a water gun in the air and the stream connects with an electrical wire, could the current travel down the stream of water and kill you?
No.
Q:I am moving a sub panel from one position to another but the feed wires #2 are not long enough to reach new panel so i want to know if I can make a j box and splice them and what would i use as wire nuts are to small.
Actually it is not a code violation. There is a provision in the electrical code that says that any splice must be in an approved box with cover and it must be accessible, meaning do not sheet rock over or put cabinet in front of j box. The 8/3 part worries me. Most ranges are rated at 50 amps and number 8 is to small for 50 amps. Check the rating plate on the range. Make sure all connections are tight. Dan

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