Q:Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!

Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.

Q:Dear friends, please let me know in most of the power plants recirculation line and balance leak off lines are provided for boiler feed water pumps and those lines are connected to Deaerator. Why?

The feed pumps for most power plants are multistage centrifugal pumps. They have a minimum flow requirement or the balancing forces of the various impellers are lost and the pump is damaged. A recirculation line permits a minimum flow to be maintained at all times. It goes back to the deaerator so the boiler feedwater is not lost. Note: many of these pumps have the recycle automated so it is only in operation at very low flow rates. The leak off from the balancing line is recycled for the same reason.

Q:The water pump needs to be able to pull up water roughly 8+ feet. Ideally the system should include a filter to eliminate the presence of jellyfish. I need the most cost efficient solar panels with wattage provided. The battery used would be something similar to a deep cycle marine battery. Additionally I must figure out the amphours. Does anyone know where I can look up previously constructed systems or my best method of approach. Whom should I seek help from? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The price range we're looking at is around $1000.

This okorder / Most of what you need as far as the electrical side of this project should be on my site... As far as the aquarium design and choosing the pump, you're on your own. :)

Q:What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?

drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do

Q:My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!

There's lots of possible damage that can occur in an overheat condition. Best to get it in somewhere with a laser temp gauge to track the problem in the system. There is a good possibility the thermostat is going bad if you are overheating and not losing coolant. That indicates a blockage to stop coolant flow.

Q:I have a Honda 20003 bf15 d short shaft Ineed to change the water pump I have removed the 5 bolts that hold the lower unit it on but the shifter is steal hooked up how doI unhook that?

Please get the workshop manual. From an imperfect memory it should be in forward gear to expose a link - but I could be confusing it with other brands. This brand has a known issue with the water pump if ever run dry as both the impellor and the housing can be damaged instantly. The pump should always be replaced as a full assembly, housing, seals and impellor, as detritus can easily block water galleries and that requires extensive work to remediate. The thermostat should be checked and replaced at the same time. Worn and damaged impellor material can easily end up through the block, head, thermostat etc. and that must be checked for as well. The lower cylinder can be down on compression caused by local overheating due to this and mud, sand and corrosion reducing water flow. An engine that very much must be flushed and looked after after all use - that includes all the larger models with this brand. They are quite a good engine, but seem very heavy for the output to me - particularly compared to lifting a two stroke on and off....

Q:I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.

2003 Impala Water Pump

Q:Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!

I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

Q:Pump suction and pressure side road why should vacuum table and pressure gauge, and what role they have?

The water pressure (vacuum) is measured by the vacuum meter. The pressure gauge is used to measure the pressure at the water end, and the difference between the two is the lift of the pump

Q:So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe

No worries.. there are sometimes four mounts on a transversed engine. (front wheel drive) two at the top, on the frame rail supports, or on the inner fenders, these hold most of the weight of the engine and trans, there are normally two more, but I have seen only one used in some models, these are used to support the engine from twisting or rock on the upper mounts, due to tork or braking forces of the engine. removing ether of these mounts will not effect the support of the engine, as the two upper mounts do all the supporting of the drive-train. Loosening the front mount is safe, just remember that once the front mount is removed, a certain amount of swing or free play will result, as the engine will now just be hanging from it's top mounts, and will hang freely from it's center of gravity, so expect it to move some when mount is loosened or removed, be careful not to get your hand, or other part of the body, pinched or caught when the weight shifts. go slow.. and nobody get hurt... with the possible exception of a few busted knuckles.