Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
30000 m.t./month

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Structure of Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing

 Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

Description of Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing
Prepainted Rolled steel Coil is a kind of coated steel coil/sheet. With the cold rolled steel of different strength and thickness as substrate, it is produced through applying Al-Zn coat on both faces by hot dip process. In its coating, Al accounts for about 55%, Si 1.6%, while the remaining is Zn. Aluminum zinc coils enjoys both the physical protective feature and durability of Al and the electrochemical protective property of Zn. And its surface has bright silver color and regular embossed-like figure, which are highly decorative. 

Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

 

Main Feature of Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing

1.Corrosion resistance: It mainly depends on the aluminum protection. When the zinc being worn, the aluminum will  form a dense layer of aluminum oxide, resist corrosion material to prevent further corrosion inside. 
2. Heat resistance: Aluminum zinc alloy steel sheet has excellent heat resistance, can withstand high temperatures over 300 centigrade, and is similar with aluminized steel high temperature oxidation resistance. It often used in chimney pipes, ovens, fluorescent lighting device and the device cover. 
3. Heat reflective: Galvanized steel plate heat-reflective high rate is twice as galvanized steel, often used to make insulation materials. 
4. Economy: Because density of 55% AL-Zn is smaller than the density of Zn, so in the same weight and thickness of Galvanized zinc layer, aluminum-zinc steel plate is larger area more than 3% of galvanized steel sheet. 

 

Applications of Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing
1. Construction and building: roofing; ventilating duct; handrail; partition panel;etc.

2. Electric appliance: refrigerator; washing machine; refrigerator; DVD;etc.

3.Transportation: oil tank; road sign; etc.
4.Agriculture:barn; etc.

5.Others:vending machine; game machine; etc.  

Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

 

  Prepainted Rolled steel coil for Construction roofing use

Specifications of Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing 

Product

Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing

Material Grade

SGCC / SGCH  / DX51D+AZ, etc

Thickness

0.2-3.0mm

Width

600-1500mm

Tolerance

Thickness: +/-0.02mm , Width:+/-2mm

Zinc-coating

AZ40-150g/m2

Technique

Raw material: Hot rolled steel coil --> Cold rolled_>hot dipped galvalume

Surface

Dried, Chromated, Unoiled

Spangle

Regular spangle , small spangle, zero spangle

ID

508MM

Coil weight

10MT max

Export package

Cardboard inner sleeves, Waterproof paper, galvanized steel covered and steel strip packed

 

FAQ of Prepainted Rolled steel Coil for Construction Roofing

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely: 

1. What is the minimum order quantity ?  

Our MOQ is 50mt for each size. And we will consider to give more discount if you make big order like 1000 tons and more. Further more, the more appropriate payment term your offer the better price we can provide. 

2. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

 

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Q:what are some disadvantages of stainless steel?
it sometimes rusts
Q:Polishing stainless steel (revolver)?
Stainless Steel Revolver
Q:What is the high Carbon steel used by gerber?
A steel knifeblade is like a box full of a million ball bearings. The molecules pile up/line up just like those ball bearings. When it's pure, though, you can easily deform it....just like you can ram your hand down into that box of ball bearings. What happens if you pour a gallon of heated wax over those bearings, though? It fills the gaps between the molecules and solidifies the entire mass into one solid shape. If you smack it then, you'll break your hand. It'll hold its shape *much* better and longer. That's pretty basic but what do you expect at 04:00? ;) Addendum: At one time, in the late 80's to mid 90's, it was 440a...they then switched to 440c on their mass market stuff and 154 on their special runs....late 90's-2005 went to all 440c....today's knives are a mix of 440c and some pricier knives sporting S30V blades. If it's Gerber and it costs less than $40 today, 99% of the time it will be 440c.
Q:Steel I-beam for header?
First of all is it a rule of thumb with carpenters and ironworkers never to set steel on wood. I would use a 14 tall (2) ply lvl header. *Laminated veneer Lumber. This will hold the weight of the structure between your posts. A steel beam would be quite costly today as prices on steel have skyrocketed, plus you would need a boom truck or small crane to set this beam, and you would need some sort of mounting bracket or holes pre-drilled in the beam ends to secure it to the posts. Plus you would need to have the beam delivered and if your patio is in the backyard - you would need another pc.of equipment to get it around back. Advice from me is to go with an LVL beam. They are 1+3/4 Thick and you would need a (2 ply ) beam, which means you set one pc. and then laminate another one into the first. Glue between layers (use heavy duty liquid nails) and then Lag screw them together. Use 5/16 x 3 lag screws with a washer on each one. Pre-drill holes about 3/16 smaller than lag screws - then insert lag screws and tighten up with an electric impact.
Q:melting point of 1008 steel?
It is still the same for 1008 steel. Go to the bottom and see the listing of the grades it covers. Since the only difference between the 1006 and 1008 steel is a few micro amounts of alloys and by far the greatest majority or main component is iron (99%), as a general melt temperature , 2750 F is the melt temperature at which the other alloys are added to the charge to fine tune the mix. Just like adding salt to distilled water actually lowers the boiling point of water, adding alloys to iron decreases the melting point of iron. The iron melts at 2800F, but once alloys to make the 1008 grade are added, it decreases melt temp to 2750F. Since the melting point of pure iron is 2800F, the temperature is actually decreased by adding these impurities of alloys. These alloys are tested while the mix is starting to come down from a pure melt, steel is sampled. and then alloys below are checked and added to make the 1008 steel. The steel is maintained at 2750 F so that the less volatile alloys don't boil off before combining with steel. Minimum Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 43,900 - 51,900 Yield Strength, psi 26,100 - 34,800 Elongation 42 - 48% Chemistry Iron (Fe) 99% Carbon (C) 0.08% Manganese (Mn) 0.6% max Phosphorus (P) 0.035% max Copper (Cu) 0.2% min Sulfur (S) 0.04%
Q:How to sharpen a knife with the stone and the steel?
The site listed above gives you a great step by step procedure on how to do this yourself. A Sharpening Steel is used to sharpen the fine edge of a knife. Many knives only need this done to have a refined edge. Any fine edge of a knife can have minor burrs that occur with normal use. To sharpen this type of edge, merely run the knife at an approximate 7-8 degree angle, away from yourself on the Sharpening steel repeatedly (no more than about 8-10 times each side, alternating each side as you go). Give the knife a quick wash, to remove any unwanted detritus, and you are ready to go. If you want to resharpen an entire knife, use a wet stone. Remember some stones have a natural oil in it, some do not. If you are already using a stone with oil, continue to use it with Mineral Oil as the lubricant. If it is a dry stone, use warm water. You'll never be able to change a stone once you use oil. Make sure its as flat as you can. Wet it with warm water, or the mineral oil, rub the knife away from yourself (on the coarse side) at a 5 degree angle on both sides. Alternating sides approximately 20-30 times each. Flip the stone over (dry finer side), and at a 6 degree angle, rub the knife blade toward you on both sides approximately 10 times on each side. Using either your Sharpening steel, or 550-600 coarse emory paper, rub the knife away from you 5-7 alternating times on each side at about a 7-8 degree angle. Clean the knife well. You now have a VERY sharp knife that will require this entire treatment ony 2-4 times a year at most. Otherwise, keep using the sharpening steel. I GUARANTEE this works best.
Q:Classify the following in as many ways as possible:stainless steel?
homogeneous mixture
Q:Science Question About Steel?
just like a melting point of ice and the boiling point of water, there are different points where something is converted into another form. such as icewatersteam. it's always the same thing and it's a physical change, but just in a different form. molten steel changes to solid steel at it's freezing point. or solid point. i'm not sure how you would word that. but it would not be melting or boiling point. hope that helped.
Q:What's the best dishwashing soap for stainless steel?
Stainless steel that has screws almost always rusts in the dishwasher. Also semi-complicated stainless steel utensils rust in the dishwasher...things like an egg whisker. This is true no matter what detergent you use. Dishwasher detergent almost always contains bleach. That causes stainless to rust if it has nooks and crannies. The solution? Hand wash them and let them air dry. The only stainless steel I run through the dishwasher is table flatware (knives, spoons, and forks.) You'll get a much longer life out of your utensils if you hand wash them and just let them air dry.
Q:steel vs bronze acoustic guitar strings?
You may want to experiment with different alloys to find which sound best on your guitar...but if it's acoustic, you should be using bronze wound strings.

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