Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Sheet,Coil with High Quality Blue Quality

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Shanghai
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200 m.t.
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20000 m.t./month

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1. Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Description:

With GI as base material, after pretreatment (degrease and chemical treatment ) and liquid dope with several layers of color, then after firing and cooling, finally the plate steel is called pre-painted galvanized (aluzinc) steel. Pre-painted galvanized steel is good capable of decoration, molding, corrosion resistance. It generally displays superior workability, durability and weather resistance.

2.Main Features of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil:

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability 

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect

 

3.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Images

Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Sheet,Coil with High Quality Blue Quality

 

4.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Specification

Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS 

Grade: DX51D, DX52D 

Thickness: 0.17-2.0mm 

Brand Name: KMRLON 

Model Number: coil 

Type: Steel Coil 

Technique: Cold Rolled 

Surface Treatment: Coated 

Application: Boiler Plate 

Special Use: High-strength Steel Plate 

Width: 20-1250mm 

Length: customized 

commoidty: pre-painted galvanized steel coil 

Thickness: 0.13-4.0mm 

width: 20-1250mm 

zinc coating: 40-180g/m2 

printing thickness: top side: 20+/-5 microns, back side: 5-7 microns 

color: all RAL color 

surface treatment: color coated 

coil weight: 4-7 tons 

coil ID: 508/610mm 

packaging: standard seaworthy packing 

5.FAQ of Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

1. What’s the application of this product?

Roof, roof structure, surface sheet of balcony, frame of window, etc.

2. What’s the brand of the paint?

We use the best brand of all of the word—AKZO.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

 


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Q:Remington 870 wingmaster steel shot duck hunting?
The biggest problem is the FULL choke on the end of the barrel. Steel pellets are harder than lead, so they find it hard to squeeze through the tight full choke. If you do it, you WILL either bulge or crack the muzzle end of the barrel. That is a fact. Newer model 870 shotguns with RemChokes can fire steel, but you have to use a lead MODIFIED choke to send a full pattern down range. Again, for the same reason I mentioned earlier - that the steel does not deform and squeeze itself through the tighter chokes as well. See photo link below at what your barrel will look like after a box of steel shot.
Q:Stainless Steel Used In Knifes?
If your talking about a folding pocket knife, I think that it's basically six one way and a half dozen the other. I actually do prefer stainless for my pocket knives. I don't want to oil a knife to the degree I feel carbon requires, only to then stick it my pocket to attract dirt to the knife and oil to my pants. I'm the exact opposite on sheath knives though. I like 1095 carbon steel, plain edge sheath knives. I'll thrash on them HARD, and I rarely have major edge problems. Of course, I require them to be coated with some kind of powder coat or the like, because they can rust, but I do try and keep them clean and dry when in the sheath, so they won't pit the uncoated edge. My reasons for this sheath knife preference is multi-fold. First, these knives are simply affordable. I don't spend $80 dollars on a outdoors sheath knife. I use the tool too hard to want to spend more. I don't like the more traditional stainless steels such as AUS-8, 420HC, and 440C (not to mention the HORRENDOUS 440A) because I feel that the all else being equal, a stainless blade will bend before a carbon blade will break. I also think that carbon holds an edge at least as well, if not better, than traditional stainless, and it's much easier to hone. I don't know much about these new laminates, other than the very hard, but not so tough. They seem to be POSSIBLY too brittle for my use. That, combined with the fact that they cost a FORTUNE, means that I just won't be considering them.
Q:Will this steel rust?
stainless steel also rusts it just takes longer to. what you have is just a higher grade of steel, which isn't stainless anyways so yeah wipe it clean when you're done.
Q:What type of metal is T10 tool steel?
Carbon Tool Steel usually in the form of forged bar stock. Steel Grades for tool steel can be any of the following (depending on the application) T10/1.1645 SK3/SK4/W1A-91/2/ TC105/y10/1880/BW1B T10A/1.1545/y10A/1880 Standards are published by: DIN, JIS, ASTM, AISI, BS, SS, ISO, TOCT, GB Doug
Q:Can you WELD STEEL to ALUMINUM? How much heavier/stronger is STEEL?
You should not attempt to do any traditional welding of steel to aluminum as they can form a hard and brittle inter metallic compound known as iron aluminide. You would have to employ a process that did not melt either species. Cladding could be an option but you are kind of limited to flat products that are sandwiched together. There is also explosive which does almost the same thing as cladding. Friction stir welding might be possible but I cant vouch for that. The temperature does get pretty hot, so I am not sure what would happen. But any of these suggestions would take specialized equipment not available to the average user. For weight, Al is 2.7 g/cc and Iron is about 7.8 so it is about 3 times heavier for the same volume. How strong either of them are greatly depends on specific alloys and heat treatment. I think some of the strongest aluminum alloys have a yield strength of about 50,000 psi which would relate to a relatively weak steel. For steel, there are alloys that can have yield strengths in the hundreds of thousands psi.
Q:POkemon best game steel?
Robopon ;) Transformers? really... fail joke, Robopon is essentially pokemon with robots ;) But on-topic, i believe Platinum would be your best choice.. from memory, it had no end of steel and steel-hybrids.
Q:What are the uses of Mild Steel?
Mild steel doesn't really mean anything, technically. In today's world all steel is mild steel unless it's high carbon or alloy, which are mostly tool steels. You'll need to study steel much deeper than that to accomplish any real physics work relating to steel.
Q:Steel and Iron Ore?
Iron ore is just a rock -- in fact it would probably be hard to tell iron ore from a piece you found lying out in your backyard. It's what mines produce, and it needs to be burned to separate it into its different elements. Iron is an element. It is the purest form of the metal. Steel is mostly iron, but it is not pure iron. To make steel you must burn coke (another kind of rock) along with the iron ore. The coke adds carbon to the iron, producing steel which is stronger than pure iron.
Q:Is boron steel harder?
There is really no simple answer to this question. Boron is usually used for a handful of reasons, but most center on high volume low cost production of durable hardened steel. Boron is a very cheap way to get very durable parts with very minimal alloying of expensive materials. It was born of necessity during WW2 and is currently in WIDE use in bulldozer undercarriage. Probably in place of what would otherwise be 4140. Boron steel is quite a bit more difficult to properly heat treat. Better suited to mass production facilities with tight controls, but when done properly provides material just as durable as higher alloys. Not a backyard endeavor such as ht/tempering carbon steel or tool steels without appropriate homework and treatment controls.
Q:How would you encase steel in concrete?
OK, here is my take on it Take equal lengths of steel wire, one is going to bare, one is going to be encased You will need a tension rig, simply this will be one fixed end and one end you can hang a weight down. For the test you will affix one end and string it between to supports with one end hanging off, which is where you will put the weight. The put a ruler where the weight is, so as the weight pulls the wire down (after it is hot) you can time the stretching. lastly you need a place to put a controlled fire under the wire, I'd reccommend something tame like a camping stove OK, got a test rig and two pieces and a way to test. You'll have to play with different fires and weights to see what works best Putting the concrete on the wire is a tricky one since you don't want the concrete to take the load. Get a tub or dish of approriate size and put some wet concrete in it, partway up. Take one of the wires and coat it with wax or something like it that is soft. Place the wire, with the ends sticking out, in the concrete tub and pour more on to cover it. Let this whole thing harden. You might want to have a specific shape to the tub so it comes out a certain size Now, you have an uncoated wire and an coated one. Be careful you don't pull the wire out of the concrete Another way to do this would be to use joing compound, which is a type of mortor (cement). You can buy it a home depot or such. Mix it up as thick as possible and just cake it on the wire and let harden. You can shape the coating using saran wrap or something maybe. I my world we call this stuff monster mud, its used to shape things for Halloween props like robes into figures. Its quite sturdy when done When you are ready to test just hook each part up with the same fire and weight and take readings of stretch vs. time

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