Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Coil in Coils

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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Description

The base metals for Pre Painted Steel Coil consist of cold rolled, HDG electro-galvanized and hot-dip Alum-zinc coated steel. The finish coats of Pre Painted Steel Coil can be classified into groups as follows: polyester, silicon modified polyesters, polyvinylidene fluoride, high-durability polyester

The production process has evolved from one coating and one baking to double-coating-and-double-baking, and even three-coating-and-three-baking.

The Pre Painted Steel Coil can also be classified into groups by their surface textures, namely regular pre-painted sheets, embossed sheets and printed sheets.

 

Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Coil in Coils

Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Coil in Coils

 

Application

Suitable for indoor or outdoor decoration, color lasting for at least 10 years for outdoor using, could for roll forming., conditioning, micro-wave oven, bread maker,Blackboard, white board,

Central heating slice, lampshade, chifforobe, desk, bed, locker, bookshelfgarbage can, billboard, typewriter, instrument panel, weight sensor, photographic equipment,coffin, fence, Prepainted Galvanized Steel Coil

Product Specification

Paint: PE or PVDF

Color pre painted steel in coil

Thickness: 0.3-0.8mm

Width: 914-1250mm

Inner Diameter: 508mm610MM

Weight of Steel Coil: 3-7MT

Available Dipped Layer: 50-150g/m2

Coating Type: Al-Zn Alloy

Front Side Paint Thickness: 15-25μm

Back Side Paint Thickness: 5-7μm

Standard:JIS G3312,CGCC    

FAQ:

1.Can you produce the goods according to the customer’s requirements?

Yes, of course, it can be customized according to customers requirements.

2.Could you tell me the package for the Pre Painted Steel Coil?

Usually Standard export seaworthy package: waterproof paper and steel trip packed and wooden case seaworthy package

3.How about the color of the Pre Painted Steel Coil

The color of the Pre Painted Steel Coil has a very wide selection, like orange, cream-colored, dark sky blue, sea blue, bright red, brick red, ivory white, porcelain blue.

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In that video, he is using a steel-string acoustic guitar. However, when choosing between a nylon string guitar and a steel string guitar, you must consider a few things. Steel-string guitars are more painful in the beginning for the fretting hand, but that means you'll have more strength in your fingers faster. Nylon-string guitars are easier on the fingers and sound much smoother and calmer than steel-string guitars. Also, nylon-string guitars have a wider neck and that neck meets the body at the twelfth fret, while most steel-string guitars have a thinner neck that meets the body at the fourteenth fret. Have fun with your first guitar! :)
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I'd be very surprised if there are any tour players still using steel shafts on their woods (I did actually see Tiger with a steel shaft on a driver during a clinic in 2002). Top end graphite shafts have gotten so much better there's just no reason for pros not to use them anymore. That being said, I use a 45 True Temper stiff steel shaft in my driver (Cobra X-speed, 9.5*). Graphite is longer than steel, but the distance I've lost is minimal (maybe 10 yards and I still put it out there 250+ consistently). The extra weight has actually helped me stay in control which has improved my overall driving considerably, and the very low torque in a steel shaft has paid off huge in accuracy. You're paying minimum $60 (or more) for a graphite shaft with a similar torque rating to any steel shaft. I hit easily twice as many fairways since the switch. I've even switched out my other fairway woods too, the feel and control are so much nicer. I've considered going with a 46 on the driver to try to regain some of the distance, and at $7 per shaft I can actually just go do that whenever I want. Don't get me wrong, if I were playing for money or flirting with par I'd invest in good quality graphite stuff no question, but it doesn't make sense to me right now. I'd recommend to anyone looking for more consistency out of their woods to take $20 to your golf shop and try it out. It's a lot cheaper than the alternatives.
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no u idiot
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1. A method has been developed for magnetic phase analysis of Fermanal type alloys as-quenched and after aging. 2. The upper limit of alloying to ensure the optimal mechanical properties was determined more precisely for steel 9G28Yu9MVB. For rods aged at 550°C for 16 h the aluminum content should not exceed 9.2% and the carbon content 0.92%. 3. To ensure the optimal mechanical properties of the deformed metal it is necessary to obtain a fine-grained single-phase austenitic structure after quenching. The amount of hardening phase after quenching should not exceed 15–20% (saturation magnetization around 1600 G).
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I have a combo of black and stainless in my kitchen; not sure which one is worse some days. For normal everyday stuff, hot, soapy (Dawn), clean dishwater and a microfiber cloth work great. For quick touch ups, a 50/50 mixture of window cleaner and rubbing alcohol also works great. The window cleaner gets the grease and the alcohol helps with streaks and makes the cleaner germ killing. Use with a microfiber cloth. For really nasty burned on stuff, I'd use a sponge with a non-stick cookware safe nylon scrub pad on it and some of the hot, soapy water. Just lay the damp sponge on the spot, let it soak a bit and see if it comes off. If not, try a little Barkeeper's Friend. Dampen, sprinkle, smear it around a little and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Then scrub with the sponge. Wipe up the residue with the microfiber cloth. The microfiber cloths are really key; they wipe more efficiently than any sponge, wipe, paper towel, dish rag. Get several and change them out frequently. You just wash and dry them; no fabric softener and you're ready to use them again. And it wouldn't hurt to keep a protective coat of a good stainless steel product on there either. That helps keep the stuff from getting such a good hold. But I've found that most of those are pretty bad at cleaning; so clean it first, then polish.

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