PRE-PAINTED GALVANISED STEEL COIL

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Prepainted Galvanized Steel Coils

With galvanized steel as base metal, after pretreatment (degrease and chemical treatment) and liquid dope with several layers of color, then after firing and cooling, finally the plate steel is called pre-painted galvanized steel. Pre-painted galvanized steel is good capable of decoration, molding, corrosion resistance. It generally displays superior workability, durability and weather resistance.

Brand Name: HBSTEEL

Specifications Of Hot Sell Prepainted Galvanized Steel

Thickness                   0.23-1.2mm (BMT)

Zinc Coating               80-275g/m2

Color                        According to RAL color fan

Internal Diameter       508mm or 610mm

Coil Weight                4-8MT

Quality                       Commercial and structural quality

Paint                          Polyester paint for topside, epoxy for reverse

Standard                   JIS G 3312, ASTM A755M, EN 10169

Base Steel Grade      SGCC,SGCD,DX51D+Z,DX52D+Z;S200GD,S220GD,   S280GD,S350GD,CS,FS,SS  

Chemical Composition Of  Prepainted Galvanized Steel  

C

Si

Mn

P

0.04-0.06%

0.01-0.03%

0.18-0.22%

0.014-0.016%

Technical Data Of  Prepainted Galvanized Steel  

Yield Strength

(Mpa) 280-320

Tensile Strength

(Mpa) 340-390

Elongation

20%-30%

Reverse Impact

9J

T-bending

≥2T

Pencil Hardness

≥2H

Duration Of Salt Spray Test

500 H

Bending At 180 Degree

No crack, purling and fraction

Application Of Hot Sell Prepainted Galvanized Steel

It can be widely used in transportation, light industry, civil usage and farming. It is also the perfect building material in construction for making steel roofing,insulation panel, corrugate sheet, facade wall,shutters,T-bar and home appliance.

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Q:Remington 870 wingmaster steel shot duck hunting?
A full choke is not recommended for most steel shot. That gun was made before steel shot was popular and the barrel probably will not hold up to the hard steel shot. You have two options. Both will cost money. You can get the soft heavy shot and use that. Or you can buy a newer shotgun and use steel in it.
Q:STAINLESS STELL AND MS STEEL MATERIAL WELDING POSSIBLE OR NOT?
Welding austenitic stainless steels to carbon and low alloy steels are established methods in the process and construction industries. Dissimilar metal welds involving stainless steels can be done using most full fusion weld methods, including TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) and MIG (Metal Inert Gas). Weld procedures using filler (consumable) enable better control of joint corrosion resistance and mechanical properties. In selecting the weld filler, the joint is considered as being stainless, rather than the carbon steel. Over-alloyed fillers are used to avoid dilution of the alloying elements in the fusion zone of the parent stainless steel.
Q:How much is obselete steel worth when sold as scrap?
It okorder.com/
Q:Is Tungsten Carbide steel?
Edmond, a laser doesn't scratch anything, it melts. We're talking physical properties, not plasma properties. At NORMAL temperatures of 70-90 degrees F. If you don't understand the question, quit answering. Id imagine tungsten carbide can scratch itself. Much like an ape. :) - The Gremlin Guy -
Q:8cr13mov steel thoughts?
8Cr13MoV is a decent blade steel...not a great steel, but about as good as you will generally find without paying much higher prices. It's used by a number of well known knife makers... It's basically equivalent to AUS-8 and will work and hold an edge reasonably well for most basic cutting chores. *************************************** From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: 8Cr13MoV, a Chinese stainless steel tempered at the Rc56 to Rc58 range and used in the Tenacious, Persistence, Ambitious, Resilience, Grasshopper, Kiwi3 and Byrd lines of knives. Often compared to AUS-8, but with slightly more Carbon.
Q:What is stainless steel 316, and what are its properties?
For machined aspects 416 cautioned. For welded aspects 316 is cautioned. besides the shown fact that 316 supplies a greater advantageous corrosion resistance. oftentimes the only benefit for 416 is machinability others than that 316 is greater advantageous
Q:fallout 3, broken steel?
Yes, with Broken Steel there is no end to the game. You survive the main quest where you would die in the original game and may go on to explore the wasteland forever.
Q:Buy a steel building!!!!?
A steel storage garage?? Proper ground preparation---steady level ground--and lots of friends to help erect it.
Q:Steel reinforced armor.?
I don't think that would work. First off, there's not enough carbon in steel - even very high carbon steels are only about 2% carbon. Second, the iron atoms in steel form a crystal lattice, in the shape of a cube, with another iron atom in the middle of the cube. Each cube is about 0.3 nm per side. Carbon atoms work their way into the crystals and displace the iron atoms. But a carbon nanotube is around 1 nanometer in diameter - that's 3 times as big as the iron lattice! So a nanotube wouldn't fit. One thing you might do, however, is make a composite - mix the materials together on a scale a little bigger than the atomic scale that the iron and carbon mix to make steel. Just like a carbon fiber bicycle frame or ski pole is strands of carbon (much bigger and not as strong as nanotubes) held together with epoxy, you could hold nanotube strands together with metal. Not sure it would be good for armor, but if you can figure out a way to do it, I'm sure someone will come up with a use for it!
Q:Carbon Steel/ Stainless Steel knives?
If your talking about a folding pocket knife, I think that it's basically six one way and a half dozen the other. I actually do prefer stainless for my pocket knives. I don't want to oil a knife to the degree I feel carbon requires, only to then stick it my pocket to attract dirt to the knife and oil to my pants. I'm the exact opposite on sheath knives though. I like 1095 carbon steel, plain edge sheath knives. I'll thrash on them HARD, and I rarely have major edge problems. Of course, I require them to be coated with some kind of powder coat or the like, because they can rust, but I do try and keep them clean and dry when in the sheath, so they won't pit the uncoated edge. My reasons for this sheath knife preference is multi-fold. First, these knives are simply affordable. I don't spend $80 dollars on a outdoors sheath knife. I use the tool too hard to want to spend more. I don't like the more traditional stainless steels such as AUS-8, 420HC, and 440C (not to mention the HORRENDOUS 440A) because I feel that the all else being equal, a stainless blade will bend before a carbon blade will break. I also think that carbon holds an edge at least as well, if not better, than traditional stainless, and it's much easier to hone. I don't know much about these new laminates, other than the very hard, but not so tough. They seem to be POSSIBLY too brittle for my use. That, combined with the fact that they cost a FORTUNE, means that I just won't be considering them.

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