PRE-PAINTED ALUZINC STEEL COIL

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Product Description:

THICKNESS:0.18mm-1.5mm

WIDTH:900mm-1250mm

COATING MASS:AZ30-AZ180

PAINT:PE、HP、HDP、PVDF、SMP、MATT、PVDF

COLOR:RAL Scale

COIL INNER DIAMETER:508mm/610mm

COIL WEIGHT:3mt-7mt

BASE MATERIAL:Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel


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Q:Is the Bianchi Pista Steel bike good?
Steel is for real, all other materials compare them to steel. Carbon is a comfortable as steel, Alu is lighter and ti is less corrosive than steel. Steel is the standard that all other bikes are measured to.
Q:Can I load my own steel core ammo?
You don't know the law regarding selling steel core ammo quite as good as you think you do.
Q:BB gun lead vs steel.?
steel is made of iron mainly (and carbon) its density is 7.86 g/cm³ approximately. and lead has density=11.4 g/cm³. so, if have same volume and shape steel will have less mass and thus will have greater velocity for same muzzle energy. I agree the manual. for more information on ricochet
Q:Best steel for a all purpose knife?
Do you want apples or oranges? It's that kind of question. Here's my opinion. For large blades (over 6) 5160 or L-6 done properly makes a nearly unbreakable knife. I once pulled my 65lb vice out of the work bench with an 8 L-6 blade. As carbon content goes up edge holding increases but at the cost of overall strength. For smaller blades I prefer O-1 and 52100, these steels have about twice the edge holding as 5160 but cannot pass the 90deg bend test without breaking. 1095 is a fine steel, I prefer to make damascus from it, but when I do make a blade I want to show a temper line as this steel will do it well. Then we get into high alloy, D-2 is about as balanced as they come and for a smaller blade is second to none save the CPM steels. The CPM steels are very expensive and like the homogonous steel come in many alloys. As far as a chipping edge, that's more an indication of improper heat treating than anything. Carbon steel has more strength and edge holding potential than stainless. D-2 has enough chromium to be somewhat stainless but not beyond the threshold that grain growth becomes an issue. One last thing, the grind is important. The popular hollow grind cuts easily but is weak at the edge because it is thin. A flat grind has more mass and done properly cuts as well as the hollow. The convex is the strongest and is best suited for chopping or a polished edge to push through the material.
Q:Stainless steel sword?
Ya it could kill someone if it was sharpened enough but from experience stainless steel swords don't get as sharp as Carbon or higher grade steel. Not to mention it would probably bend if you hit someone with it all the way. Hell the one I let some people who were chopping a bush ( just a normal bush ) they were playing around and it got bent. I'm going to say I can't suggest a stainless steel sword for anything other then handing on your wall. Not even going into the whole If you use a sword for self defense is it considered self defense? debate. It's a sketchy situation not to mention you would need training with a sword to actually use it without it just getting brushed off.
Q:Help! About Steel!?
The strength and corrosion resistance depends on the mix. Pure steel is pure iron plus 6% pure carbon. It is the carbon molecules that give it a tough crystallized strength. Pure iron is wrought iron and you can bend that with your hands. Strength also depends on the shape of the beam the most common steel beam is the W flange more commonly called the I beam. That is because the strength of the ‘I’ beam is just a little bit less than if the entire I beam was filled in; however the weight and material savings is huge. Steel itself has no corrosion resistance and is often given a zinc coating just to resist oxidization. Manganese, vanadium and tungsten are just some of the other elements added to improve the steel.
Q:Steel Tensile Strength?
I don't follow your calculations. It seems to me that the piece you show could be made from .01 steel and still be less than a pound. Also, it is hard to get steel thinner than .015 because anything thinner is not very useful. If you made it out of .015 steel and used a high strength steel, it might be useful. You wouldn't be bashing any skulls, but with some spikes on the end, it could do some damage, and protect against knives or other hand weapons. You also won't get any bullet resistance out of anything that thin. If you want to bash skulls and deflect bullets, you have to get up to at least .10 and several pounds. Any weight on your hands slows down the speed of your punch, but this is compensated for by the increased energy of impact carried by the extra mass. Also, having something hard to protect your hands allows for harder hits and more damage to the opponent. An interesting idea, but it would take some testing to figure out the optimum configuration. One problem I see is that it completely encloses the hand, making it impossible to use the hand for anything else. So you would have to put it on and take it off a lot, and there would be cases where you wouldn't be able to put it on when you needed it. For that reason, I would not wear two at one time. I would make it heavier and wear it on one hand for bashing skulls and deflecting weapons, and keep the other hand free for other things.
Q:What does Blue Steel meen?
Blue okorder.com/
Q:Is blue steel stronger than stainless steel? i heard it is.?
Stainless steel requires less maintenance, but I've got a K-38 Combat Masterpiece from 1974. Back then SW used the real blueing process, and the blue steel looks like its a foot deep. Probably the best looking gun in the accumulation. Still new in the box, never fired. Its my Vietnam tribute gun, same one I carried as a Security Policeman in the Air Force from 1969-1971.
Q:A simple question: Corten steel?
Bill summed it up pretty quick and provided a link. For some reason you are focusing on the copper content when it really is insignificant in the overall picture of the sun hitting its surface. If you could elaborate more, maybe we could offer a better answer.

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